Log In 
Photo

Grays Peak

snow Lost Rat Couloir
Difficulty Class 3 
Snow Steepness: Steep 
Ski/Board: Advanced, D12 / R3 / II  
Risk FactorsExposure: Considerable
Rockfall Potential: Considerable  
Route-Finding: Moderate  
Commitment: Considerable  
 
TrailheadGrays Peak
Start11,280 feet
Summit14,275 feet
Total Gain3,000 feet
RT Length6.5 miles
AuthorBillMiddlebrook
Last UpdatedOct 2022
DownloadsgpxGPX Track
Show More
Photo
?WARNING!
This route should only be climbed with consolidated, stable snow, usually in spring or early summer. In mid-winter, many snow routes have frequent risk of avalanche.

Trailhead

Take I-70 to the Bakerville exit (#221). Leave the highway and drive south over to the dirt parking area near the start of Forest Road 189. This is the winter trailhead and even if the upper road is open, low-clearance passenger cars should park here. It's almost 3 miles to the summer trailhead. Continue up the Grays Peak (189) road. After 1 mile, stay straight at a junction. Continue another 2 miles to the trailhead, at 11,280'. There are restrooms and a few dispersed camping spots near the parking area.

Route

From the summer trailhead, cross the bridge that spans the stream in Stevens Gulch and follow the well-defined Grays trail up the hill into Stevens Gulch. 1 is the view of Grays from near 11,700'. Continue on the Grays trail for nearly 1.5 miles until you are near the trail sign near 12,100'. Just before the sign, locate a small road that leaves the left side of the Grays trail - 2. Follow the small road down a bit and then south towards the center of the basin. 3 is another close-up view of Lost Rat. After heading south for a bit, continue on the road as you approach the southwest end of the basin - 4. Stay on or near the road as it climbs onto the talus below Lost Rat - 5 and 6. Hike over to the base of the couloir - 7. Crampons, axe, helmet, and avalanche gear are recommended.

Start climbing. Above 12,800', the terrain steepens as you approach the confines of the couloir - 8, 9 and 10. Above 13,100', reach a fork in the couloir - 11. Stay left and continue up the main couloir. The next 300 feet is straightforward and the slope angle reaches 45 degrees - 12, 13, and 14. Near 13,500', the couloir turns slightly left as you pass through the narrowest section - 15. Climb the last 100 feet to reach the top of Lost Rat - 16 and 17. Turn right (west) to see the remaining 700 feet up Grays' east ridge - 18. Follow the ridge to the summit - 19 and 20.

Skiing?

Descending the ridge: 21
At the top of Lost Rat: 22
Descending: 23, 24
Near 13,300': 25
A look back after exiting the couloir: 26
If you are lucky, you may have continuous snow on the stream that leads out of the gulch: 27
Looking back: 28

Notes

The slope angle in Lost Rat reaches 45 degrees but much of it is close to 40 degrees. While it isn't as long as the Dead Dog Couloir on Torreys, the steepness is similar.
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #17 #18 #19 #20 #21 #22 #23 #24 #25 #26 #27 #28

This page can only be accessed by registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

This page can only be accessed by registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

This page can only be accessed by registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

Caution: The information contained in this route description may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this route description provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the route description author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
Heading to a 14er soon? Don't forget the 14ers.com mobile app.
Google Play     Apple App Store