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Mount Blue Sky

snow North Face Moderate
Difficulty Class 3 
Snow Steepness: Moderate 
Ski/Board: Advanced, D8 / R3 / I  
Risk FactorsExposure: Considerable
Rockfall Potential: Considerable  
Route-Finding: Low  
Commitment: Moderate  
 
Start12,850 feet
Summit14,268 feet
Total Gain1,500 feet
RT Length2 miles
AuthorBillMiddlebrook
Last UpdatedSep 2023
DownloadsgpxGPX Track
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?WARNING!
This route should only be climbed with consolidated, stable snow, usually in spring or early summer. In mid-winter, many snow routes have frequent risk of avalanche.

Trailhead

Take Exit 240 at Idaho Springs on Interstate 70. Drive south on Colorado 103 for 13.5 miles to Echo Lake. Show your reservation and drive 9 miles up the Mt. Blue Sky road (Colorado 5) to the signed Summit Lake parking area.

Route

This is the best ski route on Blue Sky's north face. Crampons are very helpful between 13,400' and the top of the snow below the summit ridge. 1 shows most of the route seen from the parking area near Summit Lake. In the photo you can see that you must ascend a bench that rises up in the east end of the Summit Lake bowl.

Walk out onto the Mt. Blue Sky road, turn right, and follow the road. After a short distance, the road crosses the east drainage of Summit Lake. Leave the road on the right side and walk across grass and rocks until you reach the base of the slope. Your immediate goal is to ascend the slope up to the small bowl below the north face. Climb 470' of elevation and 1/3 mile up to the top of this slope at 13,300'. You now have an unobstructed view of the north face. The summit is up to your left, but this route climbs the snow in the easiest portion of the north face. 2 shows the view from here.

Take your time and pick your line up through the snow. I found it easiest (and safest) to start on the left side, and cross into the rocks near the center and then follow the rocks up through the center of the snow. Descend into the small bowl, pass the tiny lake, and begin your ascent up across boulders toward the left side of the snow field. From the tiny lake, you must climb approximately 780' of elevation to reach the summit ridge. Carefully climb up the snow as you aim for the top of the snow the ends below the lowest part of the ridge above. As you near 13,900', the snow field starts to narrow below the lowest portion of the ridge above - 4. Climb straight up to reach the top of the snow between 13,900' and the ridge (above 14,100').

Turn left and hike 0.13 miles along the summit ridge to reach the summit. 5 looks back along the ridge. If you're hiking, descend back to Summit Lake via the West Ridge, over 13er Mt. Spalding.

Skiing?

If you brought your skis, snap in near the top of the face. 3 looks down on the route from 14,000'. Repeat if necessary.

Notes

This route is best done with stable spring snow. Helmet, crampons and an axe are required. IMPORTANT: This route enters the Mount Evans Wilderness area. Wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.
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