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Mount Democrat

snow South Slope
Difficulty
 Difficult Class 2 

Snow Steepness: Moderate
 Advanced, D6 / R3 / II
Risk Factors
ExposureConsiderable
RockfallModerate
Route-FindingConsiderable
CommitmentModerate
TrailheadKite Lake 12,000 feet
Summit14,154 feet
Elevation Gain2,150 ft
Length Round-TripRT2.5 mi
Peak Conditions419 reports
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Snow Only Route
This route should only be climbed with consolidated, stable snow, usually in spring or early summer. In mid-winter, many snow routes have frequent risk of avalanche.

Trailhead

Take Colorado 9 to Alma. In the middle of town and on the west side of the road, look for a small sign for the road to Kite Lake. It's across the road from the "Caniglia Real Estate" building. Turn here and drive a bit through a residential area. Continue 6 miles to Kite Lake. The last mile of this road can be a bit more rough, but a good-clearance 2WD should still be able to make it to within a couple hundred yards of the TH lot, when the road is dry. There are restrooms and some camping spots at the trailhead and an $8 fee is required.

Route Description

 1 and  2 show Mt. Democrat from the Kite Lake road and  3 is a different angle, from Mt. Buckskin. In these photos, notice the distinct line of rock outcroppings on Democrat's south slope. They form a set of chutes which are used on this route. From the trailhead, begin hiking northwest toward a small basin, left of Democrat's southeast slope -  4. Once in the small basin (12,500'), continue west to its west end and ascend 200+ feet to reach easier terrain, just above and northwest of Lake Emma -  5 and  6.

Now above 12,800', continue northwest toward the chutes and rock outcroppings in the center of the south slope -  7,  8. Angle up to the right and begin climbing steeper terrain below the chutes. On steeper terrain, enter the first chute OR continue left to pick a different one. This description uses the first chute. Climb the chute ( 9 and  10) and pass through the rock outcroppings, near 13,400' -  11. Now on easier ground, hike north/northwest up the upper slope to reach the summit -  14 and  15. Descend via the same route or use the Mt. Democrat - East Slopes (standard) route.

Skiing?

Above the chutes:  14
In a chute:  15,  16
Below the chutes:  17
The small basin (12,500'), northwest of Kite Lake:  18

Notes

The route is only recommended with stable, spring snow conditions and axe+crampons are recommended.

Maps

JPG Image
Static Map JPG

Interactive Map & 3D Flythrough
Human Verification Required

Photos

#1#2#3#4#5#6#7#8#9#10#11#12#13#14#15#16#17#18

Weather

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