Log In 
Photo

Capitol Peak

 Northeast Ridge
Difficulty Class 4 
Risk FactorsExposure: High
Rockfall Potential: High  
Route-Finding: High  
Commitment: Extreme!  
 
TrailheadCapitol Creek
Start9,450 feet
Summit14,138 feet
Total Gain5,300 feet
RT LengthFrom the TH: 17.00mi
From Capitol Lake: 5.25mi
AuthorBillMiddlebrook
Last UpdatedSep 2023
DownloadsgpxGPX Track
Show More
Photo

Are You Ready For This?

HOLD ON! This is the most-difficult of the standard 14er routes; It's long, tedious and dangerous and we want you to come back safely. Climbers have died here, including 5 in the Summer of 2017 so don't take it lightly, don't go if you don't have solid Class 3/4 climb skills and don't go just to check this mountain off your list. If you are unsure of whether or not you have the necessary skills and partners for this climb, consider using a professional guide with proper certifications, at Aspen Expeditions. Watch out for phonies on social media who claim to be a guide but are not affiliated with a guide company. Call the pros.

Trailhead

From Glenwood Springs, drive about 26 miles southeast on Colorado 82 and turn right on Snowmass Creek Road (this is not Snowmass Village). From the intersection of CO 82, it's 9.9 miles to the trailhead and the remainder of these directions assume you reset your trip-odometer at the intersection. Drive 1.7 miles to a junction and turn right on Capitol Creek road. Continue to 6.4 miles where the road turns to dirt. There's horse-trailer parking in this area and it's a good place to park if you have a low-clearance vehicle or the upper road is muddy. Continue up the rugged, narrow (and sometimes slick) road to reach the trailhead at approximately 9.9 miles.

Route

1 is a view of Capitol from the trailhead. Two trails start here: The Capitol Creek trail #1961 and the Upper Capitol Creek trail #1963 (aka "Ditch" trail). The creek trail has long been the standard way to approach Capitol, but the ditch trail has become more popular because it avoids the elevation loss and re-gain required on the creek trail. This route description uses the ditch trail which makes the hike to Capitol Lake 6 miles in length. From the west end of the trailhead parking area, start down the signed ditch trail - 2. Follow it for about 1.2 miles to a junction at 9,500' and exit the ditch on a good trail - 3. Weave through the forest, cross a stream and enter the Maroon Bells Snowmass wilderness after a meadow. Hike through aspens and clearings to reach a wide-open area above Capitol Creek - 4. Continue on the hillside for 1.5 miles before descending to the creek, 3.25 miles from the trailhead - 5. Angle left, cross the stream , and intersect the main Capitol Creek trail on the other side. Turn right onto the Capitol Creek trail and continue south though meadows - 6. Cross a few small streams along the way, including Capitol Creek, near 11,000' and 11,100'. Continue southeast as you approach the Capitol Lake area - 7. Near 11,400', turn sharply right and gain the basin just below Capitol Lake where the camp sites are located - 8.

Near 11,600', below the lake, turn left on the Capitol trail and hike southeast toward the saddle between 13er Mt. Daly and Capitol Peak - 9. Grind up 900 feet to reach the saddle - 10. This is the end of easy, trail hiking. From the saddle, it's possible to turn right and climb south up the Class 4 ridge (the "Direct" line) but it's recommended to stick to the standard, easier route on the east side - 11. From the east side of the saddle, begin traversing south. Take your time and try not to lose much elevation as you cross a couple of small gullies - 12. The initial traverse may be a bit confusing but one thing is clear - do not climb the cliffs up to your right. After traversing 1/4 mile, the route becomes more obvious and you'll continue south across talus - 13 and 14. Near 12,700', angle up to the right ( 15) where you'll see 13er "K2" to the southwest - 16. Talus-hop up to the right side of K2 - 17. Next, you need to get around K2 to continue along the ridge to Capitol. You can either go over or around K2. Climbing K2 provides an excellent view of the remaining route ( 18) and requires a short, Class 3/4 rock downclimb to return to the ridge. Go around K2 is technically easiser but requires careful maneuvering on loose rock. Pick your option - 19, 20 and 21. Once past K2, drop into a notch ( 22) and climb to a rock tower at the start of the ridge - 23.

The remainder of this route has a lot of exposed climbing and will test your route-finding skills. This is a good place to take a serious look at the weather and make a go or no-go decision. The summit isn't far away but the remaining route is time-consuming and not a place to be in bad weather. From the first tower, scramble along the ridge ( 24) for a bit to reach the infamous Knife Edge and crux of the route - 25. It's a short, exposed section that requires concentration and solid nerves. Scramble along the crest or walk along the left side while holding onto the ridge - 26 and 27. Even more difficult climbing lies ahead. After the Knife Edge, scramble on or along the ridge ( 28 and 29) for approx. 0.1 miles to reach a notch with a steep gully down to the left - 30. This is a good spot to study the upper east face and identify some landmarks - 31. Cross the notch and climb a steep pitch, looking for cairns along the way. Now above 13,800', the easiest route is on the upper east face and not on the crest of the northeast ridge - 32. Traverse left to reach a wall of slate-colored rock on the face - 33. Cross on or near the wall ( 34) and climb steeply to reach a small notch on the southeast ridge - 35. Turn right and climb the more-stable, final pitch - 36 and 37. Congratulations on making the summit - 38 and 39. On your descent, you must return via the same route, back to K2 - 40. Do not attempt to take a shortcut to Capitol Lake because all of the terrain ends in serious cliffs.

Notes

IMPORTANT: This route enters the Maroon Bells - Snowmass Wilderness area. Wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #17 #18 #19 #20 #21 #22 #23 #24 #25 #26 #27 #28 #29 #30 #31 #32 #33 #34 #35 #36 #37 #38 #39 #40

This page can only be accessed by registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

This page can only be accessed by registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

This page can only be accessed by registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

Caution: The information contained in this route description may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this route description provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the route description author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
Heading to a 14er soon? Don't forget the 14ers.com mobile app.
Google Play     Apple App Store