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Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby susanjoypaul » Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:20 am

jmeizis wrote:So I ended up at Lincoln this Saturday because Lake City wasn't very in and we thought the crowds would be at RMNP with the free entrance all weekend. Wish I would of seen this post because it was a complete junkshow. We left pretty quickly.

That's only the upper tier. The lower was just as bad. Not sure if that was your whole group of like 40 people but that was a complete s**t show. Not cool.

This isn't a "s**t show" or a "junk show." This is a bunch of people who got their asses out of bed early enough to enjoy a spectacular day on the ice, instead of sleeping in and then bitching about everybody else who did.

jmeizis wrote:Luckily nobody got hurt while we were there.

Yes, but if they did, I'm sure you, your pompous attitude, and your colorful vocabulary would have been oodles of help. Get a f***ing life, dude.

And next time, set the alarm.

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby jmeizis » Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:16 pm

For those of you new to ice climbing here are some simple etiquette and safety things that may be helpful to you in the future, especially if you want to get into multipitch ice or alpine climbing.

1. Don't yell ice continuously, after a while it loses it's meaning. Ice falls, if you're going to yell make it about something that will seriously injure someone.

2. In places with limited climbing try to spread out and move around. You won't have to worry about hitting or getting hit with ice. The same etiquette for rock climbing applies. Let smaller parties climb thru, pull your rope and let others lead through. Taking up a climb all day is inconsiderate.

3. Don't bring dogs. I understand it can suck to have to figure out what to do with them but they're liable to get a crampon wound or get knocked out with ice.

4. Place your belayers (and other spectators) out of the fall zone. Look for overhangs, blocks to hide behind. Unconcious belayers don't catch falls. The easiest way to spot a gumby ice climber is where they belay or are told to belay from.

5. Ice doesn't hold up as well to continuous climbing as well as rock climbing. If you're going to do laps on a route or have a lot of people on it encourage them to hook their way up. It drops less ice and doesn't do as much damage. It's an important technique to learn anyways.

6. Talk to other parties around you. It's possible for people to get lots of climbs in and not crowd each other by timing things. If you know you're going to knock down a lot of ice maybe ask people to wait a minute or wait till there's a lull in the activity.

susanjoypaul wrote:This isn't a "s**t show" or a "junk show." This is a bunch of people who got their asses out of bed early enough to enjoy a spectacular day on the ice, instead of sleeping in and then bitching about everybody else who did.


I guess 8:30 is a bit late. I'll be sure to get there and set up the night before. What would be the appropriate time to show up? Probably just bitter that we drove about 12 hours, broke a tent pole, and climbed 3 pitches of ice. Too bad North Start wasn't in.

susanjoypaul wrote:Yes, but if they did, I'm sure you, your pompous attitude, and your colorful vocabulary would have been oodles of help. Get a f***ing life, dude.

And next time, set the alarm.


Yeah, a WFR isn't going to do much if one of those pillars comes down and crushes somebody. Anybody there to see that last year? I'm sure that was pretty scary. Forgive the attitude but there's no good reason for people not to be considerate of other parties and try to be as safe as possible. Perhaps I should of just climbed over people and did what I wanted to do.

Comparing a small ice crag with thousands of pounds of ice hanging above people to a walk up in the summer is like comparing drivers ed class to NASCAR.

Ice climbing can be fun and relatively safe but it's not the same as rock climbing. The objective hazard is constant. Add in the subjective hazard of a big group of people at a tiny little crag and it's an accident waiting to happen. Guess I have never seen Lincoln that crowded. Definitely know not to bother on a weekend if the goal is to actually climb. Bummer!

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby I Man » Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:58 pm

Alright dude, chill out. Almost everyone one of your "rules" was followed. We got along with all other parties there and made all routes available to other climbers wishing to lead. You were not there at 830 because there was barely anyone there by then and many routes were open.
Every time I have been to Lincoln Falls there are the same amount of people, that's the crag man...accept it.

You not getting to climb sounds like you cut off your nose to spite your face. I organized this "shitshow" and still got a ton of climbing in including several laps on the pillars and a couple runs up Scottish.

And North star was great, too bad it wasn't in anymore. It was a fine alpine adventure. Maybe its Karma though. The stronger climbers than you with us certainly didn't have a problem 8)

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby jmeizis » Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:12 pm

We were racked up and starting up the first Scottish Gully around 9, 9:30. That was our thought too, that it wasn't too bad. Until we rapped down. Guess I've been lucky at Lincoln because I've been there by myself and with only a few other parties.

Guess unnecessary risk is just part of climbing ice. Sweet! Time to do more walking.

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Re: Lincoln Falls Ice Climbing Saturday Nov. 9th

Postby pvnisher » Thu Nov 14, 2013 2:31 pm

hey, watch out for all the skiers at keystone over presidents day weekend. I don't want to hear you complain about that, too... #-o

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