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Long's Route Question

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby DaveSwink » Thu May 23, 2013 5:16 pm

bking14ers wrote:The class 4 move at the top of the trough is only a big rock. It's about 7ft tall if I remember correctly. I didn't even know it was a class 4 move untill now. Not a big deal. The trough is a long slog straight up, that's the hard part.


Aren't you referencing the standard Keyhole route?

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby Alby426 » Thu May 23, 2013 5:28 pm

I have climbed it 3 times and in different conditions.
If it's wet, the route can be challenging and, may not be for everyone.
This route is not for everyone anyway, make sure that you are comfortable on class 4.
This is a very fun and fast way up Longs.
I would gladly do it again.
Here the report from my first time up, solo:
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=6680&parmuser=Alby426&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include

Have fun!
My duty, as a human, is not to take, but, to give!

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby Hungry Jack » Fri May 24, 2013 7:05 am

Alby426 wrote:I have climbed it 3 times and in different conditions.
If it's wet, the route can be challenging and, may not be for everyone.
This route is not for everyone anyway, make sure that you are comfortable on class 4.
This is a very fun and fast way up Longs.
I would gladly do it again.
Here the report from my first time up, solo:
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=6680&parmuser=Alby426&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include

Have fun!


Alby--are those pics available?
I need more dehydrogenase.

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby bking14ers » Sat May 25, 2013 6:00 am

DaveSwink wrote:
bking14ers wrote:The class 4 move at the top of the trough is only a big rock. It's about 7ft tall if I remember correctly. I didn't even know it was a class 4 move untill now. Not a big deal. The trough is a long slog straight up, that's the hard part.


Aren't you referencing the standard Keyhole route?

Yes. I just noticed the original question was on the Keyhole "Ridge" route. I don't know that route. My bad.

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby screeman57 » Sat May 25, 2013 7:26 am

bking14ers wrote:I just noticed the original question was on the Keyhole "Ridge" route.


I'm confused now--this is not Roach's route 1.3 Keyhole Ridge (rated 5.5). Is the couloir being discussed here the one that diagonals up to the keyhole ridge from the boulderfield? Just west of the North Face route?
"Never measure the height of a mountain until you have reached the top. Then you will see how low it was." -Dag Hammarskjold

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby TomPierce » Sat May 25, 2013 8:23 am

No, it's the NW Couloir, aka NW Gully over on www.mountainproject.com (under Alpine Rock>RMNP Rock>Longs Peak>North Face/Ridge (not the best title there); they rate it 5.3, I think, which is very generous...):

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/northwest-gully/105760698

If you have access to Gillet's Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide: High Peaks, it's under Longs Peak West Face, p. 90/91 of my edition. FWIW, Gillet rates it 4th class. You access the route on the west side, about halfway between the Keyhole and the Trough. As you're going along the ledges, look up to climber's left, it's that gully. Near the top is a very distinctive rock pillar that looks very much like a knight chess piece (or is it a rook...??). Anyway, very, very cool route.
-Tom
Last edited by TomPierce on Sat May 25, 2013 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby screeman57 » Sat May 25, 2013 10:00 am

Thanks for the clarification! The earlier reference to Keyhole Ridge confused me.
"Never measure the height of a mountain until you have reached the top. Then you will see how low it was." -Dag Hammarskjold

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby TomPierce » Sat May 25, 2013 10:59 am

No problem, I added some more detail on my post above, with a link to MP.

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby TallGrass » Sat May 25, 2013 11:09 am

Didn't find one on MountainProject.com (TomPierce might be able to, though), but here are some others describing the NW Couloir:

The Northwest Couloir (Class 4) as posted earlier
Longs - Knight‘s Couloir a/k/a NW Couloir personally I like that nickname
Longs Peak: Northwest Couloir/North Face
Northwest Couloir (II 5.0) only listed among routes
Longs Peak Northwest Couloir Climb
Northwest Couloir with Homie with snow in March

Alternate ascent/decent Longs Peak North Face (Old Cables Route), Difficulty: II 5.4 (YDS), pitches: 2 if you're nostalgic

Image "Base of the North Face of Longs Peak, just above Chasm View. The cables on the North Face were installed in the mid-1920s and removed in the early 1970s. Photo by Hull Cook"
-click photo to expand-
Not sure if I'll do more 14ers. The trip reports are too tiring. :wink:

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby Hungry Jack » Sat May 25, 2013 11:51 am

bking14ers wrote:
DaveSwink wrote:
bking14ers wrote:The class 4 move at the top of the trough is only a big rock. It's about 7ft tall if I remember correctly. I didn't even know it was a class 4 move untill now. Not a big deal. The trough is a long slog straight up, that's the hard part.


Aren't you referencing the standard Keyhole route?

Yes. I just noticed the original question was on the Keyhole "Ridge" route. I don't know that route. My bad.


Sorry about that. The NW couloir route takes you to a point high up on Keyhole Ridge from the back side (past Keyhole), past all the fun stuff lower on the ridge, where it is an easy scramble to the summit. That much I knew about the route when I made my initial post.
I need more dehydrogenase.

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Re: Long's Route Question

Postby JohnWilliams » Sat May 25, 2013 3:32 pm

I was on longs today, the NW Gully is now full of snow. The peak in general is in amazing spring snow conditions, but wont be for long. If anybody has a chance to get up there tomorrow or monday, I'd suggest it.

John
-I tend to be a Longs Peak nerd. If you have questions about the Longs Peak Massif please, feel free to ask.

But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find that what I really sought was something I had left behind-Tom Hornbein

And this time you gave me a mountain. A mountain I may never climb-Marty Robbins

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