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Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

FAQ and threads for those just starting to hike the Colorado 14ers.
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Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby Rock__freek » Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:42 pm

Hi all,
I'm coming to do some climbing in march and am in need of some advice. Another thread of mine started to get geared towards this separate topic, so I'm starting a new thread. Below are the comments about Winter Class 3 intro stuff.





Iman86 wrote:
If you do the "Standard" routes on DeCaLiBron from Kite Lake and you need pro you are horribly off route...or even more likely, on the completely wrong mountain :lol:

Doing a route that requires pro AND having it be your first winter climb is not a good idea, IMO...but there are options. Sort of.



NOT my first winter climb, just my first 14er. I've done plenty of mixed climbing. I'm just looking for a sweet practice grounds,like a ridge that requires multiple pitches at class 2-3 so my buddy can get some more hours in following/cleaning. I heard the Evans Beirdstadt ridge is a good area. It has also been suggested that I try a loop with pacific peak in the middle. Camp at muccullough gultch one night, then NW of Blue lakes the next night. The ridge from Pacific is supposed to be spectacular. THOUGHTS?



You don't need any pro in this area either if you are on route. The rock on that ridge is so crappy I wouldn't trust anything set in it anyway. The Sawtooth is mostly class2/2+ with a bit of class 3. I think your statement confuses at least me a bit. Class 2-3 on any mountain in these parts would not require pro. Are yo using the class 1-5 rating with 5+ being technical?
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Re: 1st winter attempt DECALIBRON? Beta appreciated

Postby Rock__freek » Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:38 pm
You don't need any pro in this area either if you are on route. The rock on that ridge is so crappy I wouldn't trust anything set in it anyway. The Sawtooth is mostly class2/2+ with a bit of class 3. I think your statement confuses at least me a bit. Class 2-3 on any mountain in these parts would not require pro. Are yo using the class 1-5 rating with 5+ being technical?[/quote]

When I say class 2-3, I mean class two or three. Normally pro not required. But I just want a practice route/stretch. For the most part the rope and pro will not be necessary, but used rather to teach my fellow climber about placing and retrieving on mixed routes, and get him comfortable without putting him in too much danger. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting him on a class 4+ until we go through the motions on some easier stuff. Feel me?

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby Matt Lemke » Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:13 pm

OK...so I completely understand where you are coming from but I honestly do not think you are going to find any class 3 anywhere near Kite Lake.
That is one of the gentlest parts of the entire state...finding any class 3 will likely be impossible.

I'd suggest relocating to a different place to practice with your rope and pro efficiency.

Avy conditions are also horrid right now so I also wouldn't recommend any colouirs at the moment.

If you can find a class 3 ridge that is pretty accessible without crossing any avy slopes that may be your best bet

Also, FYI, are you coming from the west coast area?
If so you must downgrade all of the YDS classes.
FOr example, on the west coast what someone thinks of as a class 2 will be at least a class 2+ or a 3 here in colorado.
Class 3 on the west coast is def class 4 here
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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby habaceeba » Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:31 pm

If you're not dead set on practicing on a high mountain, Crescent Mountain in Coal Creek off CO-72 would be perfect to gain some experience with class 3/3+. There are tons of good pro placements I would assume. It's where I cut my teeth on class 3-4. There is some serious exposure in places, and I wouldn't necessarily recommend a summit attempt although the IPW views are great. There would probably be some snow, but not as much as higher elevations.

Red dot is the approximate location of the pulloff. Cross the creek and start up the hill. I would recommend the ridge marked blue. It offers more of a challenge and a few places where you might want to rely on your protection. The ridge marked black is a lot of fun too. Either way, you can pick your way back down into the gully between both. From the blue marked ridge, there are ample opportunities for a rappel. If you go, watch out for cacti. I have never been up there when I didn't inadvertently stick my hand in one.

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby Rock__freek » Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:55 pm

Fletch wrote:Not to sound condescending at all (and forgive me if I do), but don't you have your sequence all wrong? If you are not comfortable placing pro, how are you going to teach someone else? Also, mixed climbing is a lot more involved than ice or rock climbing - sort of the varsity version of both... If you are still wondering about placing pro, then you shouldn't be on lead. Usually I dont chime in with advice cause there are about a million ways to climb Longs in high heels and jeans and unacclimated in a thunderstorm, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah...

But on this one, you could seriously hurt yourself or your partner if you dont know what you are doing. And it could very well (and most likely will) happen your first time out. Usually you want to put a couple hundred TR sesions under your belt before you start leading. And you would concievably start on low angle stuff, then work your way up to vertical, THEN to alpine...

Also, if you NEED pro on 2nd-4th class stuff, you are not ready to lead any class of rock/ice.

Again, I don't mean to sound condescending, but this has bad idea written all over it. And to put my money where my mouth is, i'd be happy to take you out for a TR session sometime and show you some of the basics. Just PM me. You are buying beers afterward though... :D


LOL, I hear you, and you don't don't offend me. I am comfortable/have experience leading trad up to 5.10 on rock . My partner is not. That is why I was hoping to squeeze in some sessions FOR HIM to get more comfortable with the process. He has followed on some class 5.5-5.7 rock trad routes, but not hundreds of times by any means. I just want a nice class 3-4 ridgeline somwhere in colorado to practice the motions. Somewhere that does not really demand that we rope up, but gives ample opportunity to make various placements, to show him how it all works in that environment. IF he had more experience, we would definately be going to a harder mountain. But he doesn't, and since he is a close friend and relative, it pays for me to spend the time teaching him, so I have a partner who is capable in the future. Ya dig me?

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby Rock__freek » Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:55 pm

habaceeba wrote:If you're not dead set on practicing on a high mountain, Crescent Mountain in Coal Creek off CO-72 would be perfect to gain some experience with class 3/3+. There are tons of good pro placements I would assume. It's where I cut my teeth on class 3-4. There is some serious exposure in places, and I wouldn't necessarily recommend a summit attempt although the IPW views are great. There would probably be some snow, but not as much as higher elevations.

Red dot is the approximate location of the pulloff. Cross the creek and start up the hill. I would recommend the ridge marked blue. It offers more of a challenge and a few places where you might want to rely on your protection. The ridge marked black is a lot of fun too. Either way, you can pick your way back down into the gully between both. From the blue marked ridge, there are ample opportunities for a rappel. If you go, watch out for cacti. I have never been up there when I didn't inadvertently stick my hand in one.

Image


Wow,I googled this area and it looks AWESOME!! You wouldn't happen to have any GPS waypoint data on those routes would you? Much thanks for the playground:)! I think we may stop and hit this up before we ever get to the 14ers on the trip:) MOre locations like this, but a little further from denver, would be much appreciated
too!

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby habaceeba » Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:27 pm

Rock__freek wrote:
Wow,I googled this area and it looks AWESOME!! You wouldn't happen to have any GPS waypoint data on those routes would you? Much thanks for the playground:)! I think we may stop and hit this up before we ever get to the 14ers on the trip:) MOre locations like this, but a little further from denver, would be much appreciated
too!


I have several trips in .tpo and .gpx format. If you want any of them, send me a pm with your email address so I can send them to you. It doesn't appear that I can attach anything through the 14ers.com email system.

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby England » Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:58 am

Just go for it. and dont look for advice on these forums is the best advice I can give you.
Peter Gallagher quote: "Many people say I move fast for a guy that's out of shape. Then I just remind them that round is a shape".

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby DeucesWild » Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:34 am

England wrote:Just go for it. and dont look for advice on these forums is the best advice I can give you.


Especially from a dude who looks like he's about to impale himself with an axe.
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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby kansas » Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:04 am

England wrote:Just go for it. and dont look for advice on these forums is the best advice I can give you.

And yet your advice was offered on "these forums", I'm so confused.
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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby gurlyclimber » Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:24 am

Sooo sensitive! Wow!

I heard there was in indoor scrambling course offered somewhere.

:lol: :lol: That $hit just makes me laugh :lol: :lol:

Outside of getting suggestions for where to go, I see nothing wrong with what England said.
Last edited by gurlyclimber on Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby Theodore » Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:31 am

What do you mean YOU people?!?! :x



:D

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Re: Intro to Class 3-4 WINTER Mixed climbing, Using Pro

Postby DeucesWild » Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:39 am

Theodore wrote:What do you mean YOU people?!?! :x



:D


I was thinking the same thing...
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