Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
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- Giddy Up
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Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
Hello all! I am thinking of doing Crestone Needle next summer and I wanted to get an idea of the difficulty level with the south face. 14ers has it listed as a class III but I have seen some posts that describe some of the moves as class IV. I'd like to avoid the latter, if possible. The list below should give a pretty good idea of my experience level. Conditioning-wise, I am in good shape.
Ellingwood route of La Plata - I stayed pretty high on the ridge, had some route finding difficulties, and ended up going pretty far outside my comfort level. I want to avoid rehashing this type of experience.
Longs Peak standard - No problemo
Wetterhorn standard - Final pitch got the blood moving, but in a good way. I really enjoyed this one.
Any thoughts are much appreciated - thanks!
Ellingwood route of La Plata - I stayed pretty high on the ridge, had some route finding difficulties, and ended up going pretty far outside my comfort level. I want to avoid rehashing this type of experience.
Longs Peak standard - No problemo
Wetterhorn standard - Final pitch got the blood moving, but in a good way. I really enjoyed this one.
Any thoughts are much appreciated - thanks!
- Somewhat of a Prick
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
You can do it.
- IHikeLikeAGirl
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
Just be sure that you know where to switch between the east and west gullies (on the ascent AND descent). This is key to keeping it class 3 and fun.
"Everywhere is within walking distance if you have the time."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
- Exiled Michigander
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
There are really only one or two moves on the entire standard route that could be considered Class 4. Neither of them are horribly exposed. I don't think you'll have any problems with the Needle--just watch the weather and be sure to take care in route-finding. Most people who run into problems on Crestone Needle do so because they get off route (for example, missing the ledge connecting the two gullies) or run into bad weather.
If you liked Wetterhorn, I think you'll really enjoy the Needle. The technical level of the two are pretty similar; the Needle just has a much more sustained Class 3 section (imagine the final pitch of Wetterhorn, but much longer, with a bit less exposure but not quite as obvious hand-/foot-holds).
It sounds like you are definitely ready for it.
If you liked Wetterhorn, I think you'll really enjoy the Needle. The technical level of the two are pretty similar; the Needle just has a much more sustained Class 3 section (imagine the final pitch of Wetterhorn, but much longer, with a bit less exposure but not quite as obvious hand-/foot-holds).
It sounds like you are definitely ready for it.
- Giddy Up
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
Wow! great responses and so fast! Thanks to all for helping me make an easy decision - it's definitely a go for next summer.
Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
I went through the same issues a month ago - here is the thread that detailed the responses I received. Maybe it will help some...
http://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41408
http://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41408
I take the mountain climber's approach to housekeeping - don't look down
- Giddy Up
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
Definitely helpful Jay - I'll do as much route planning as I can beforehand.
- mtgirl
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
This is great advice. Many accidents have occurred over the years from climbers missing this gully switch on the decent. Pay attention to this crossover on the ascent, so you don't overshoot and miss it on the descent.IHikeLikeAGirl wrote:Just be sure that you know where to switch between the east and west gullies (on the ascent AND descent). This is key to keeping it class 3 and fun.
Many people, including myself, will list Crestone Needle as their favorite 14er for good reason. The solid, conglomerate rock is a blast to climb on (handholds are plentiful) and the views in the South Colony Lakes area are outstanding !
"Life is not measured by the breaths you take, but by the moments that take your breath away."
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
Immediately after entering the West gully wrap a piece of surveyor's tape around a rock and leave it there to remind you where the crossover is on the way back. Be certain to take the tape out with you on your way back.
- Mtnman200
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
You don't have to switch gullies; you can just stay in the same gully all the way up and then return the same way. Also, make sure to wear a climbing helmet, as I've had careless climbers above me knock rocks loose and not even bother to call out a warning.
- BillMiddlebrook
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
The OP mentioned a desire to avoid Class 4 terrain so I wouldn't recommend the direct route up the eastern gully. While the crossover to the west gully is fairly stiff Class 3, it's easier than the Class 4 moves required when sticking to the east gully alternative.Mtnman200 wrote:You don't have to switch gullies; you can just stay in the same gully all the way up and then return the same way. Also, make sure to wear a climbing helmet, as I've had careless climbers above me knock rocks loose and not even bother to call out a warning.
"When I go out, I become more alive. I just love skiing. The gravitational pull. When you ski steep terrain... you can almost get a feeling of flying." -Doug Coombs
- Mtnman200
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Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle
Maybe my memory's getting faulty in my old age, 'cuz I don't recall anything in the east gully that seemed like Class 4. Or maybe I was just having too much fun on the fantastic conglomerate rock to notice...
"Adventure without risk is not possible." - Reinhold Messner