Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
    For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
User avatar
Giddy Up
Posts: 29
Joined: 9/30/2013
Trip Reports (0)
 

Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Giddy Up »

Hello all! I am thinking of doing Crestone Needle next summer and I wanted to get an idea of the difficulty level with the south face. 14ers has it listed as a class III but I have seen some posts that describe some of the moves as class IV. I'd like to avoid the latter, if possible. The list below should give a pretty good idea of my experience level. Conditioning-wise, I am in good shape.

Ellingwood route of La Plata - I stayed pretty high on the ridge, had some route finding difficulties, and ended up going pretty far outside my comfort level. I want to avoid rehashing this type of experience.

Longs Peak standard - No problemo

Wetterhorn standard - Final pitch got the blood moving, but in a good way. I really enjoyed this one.

Any thoughts are much appreciated - thanks!
User avatar
Somewhat of a Prick
Posts: 745
Joined: 8/4/2012
14ers: 58  7 
13ers: 84
Trip Reports (17)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Somewhat of a Prick »

You can do it.
User avatar
IHikeLikeAGirl
Posts: 991
Joined: 9/5/2007
14ers: 58  6 
13ers: 329
Trip Reports (6)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by IHikeLikeAGirl »

Just be sure that you know where to switch between the east and west gullies (on the ascent AND descent). This is key to keeping it class 3 and fun. :)
"Everywhere is within walking distance if you have the time."
- Steven Wright
User avatar
Exiled Michigander
Posts: 278
Joined: 7/29/2010
14ers: 58  7 
Trip Reports (20)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Exiled Michigander »

There are really only one or two moves on the entire standard route that could be considered Class 4. Neither of them are horribly exposed. I don't think you'll have any problems with the Needle--just watch the weather and be sure to take care in route-finding. Most people who run into problems on Crestone Needle do so because they get off route (for example, missing the ledge connecting the two gullies) or run into bad weather.

If you liked Wetterhorn, I think you'll really enjoy the Needle. The technical level of the two are pretty similar; the Needle just has a much more sustained Class 3 section (imagine the final pitch of Wetterhorn, but much longer, with a bit less exposure but not quite as obvious hand-/foot-holds).

It sounds like you are definitely ready for it.
User avatar
Giddy Up
Posts: 29
Joined: 9/30/2013
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Giddy Up »

Wow! great responses and so fast! Thanks to all for helping me make an easy decision - it's definitely a go for next summer.
User avatar
Jay521
Posts: 1161
Joined: 8/1/2007
14ers: 42  10 
13ers: 175 22
Trip Reports (56)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Jay521 »

I went through the same issues a month ago - here is the thread that detailed the responses I received. Maybe it will help some...

http://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41408
I take the mountain climber's approach to housekeeping - don't look down
User avatar
Giddy Up
Posts: 29
Joined: 9/30/2013
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Giddy Up »

Definitely helpful Jay - I'll do as much route planning as I can beforehand.
User avatar
mtgirl
Posts: 1883
Joined: 3/11/2006
14ers: 58  2 
13ers: 104
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by mtgirl »

IHikeLikeAGirl wrote:Just be sure that you know where to switch between the east and west gullies (on the ascent AND descent). This is key to keeping it class 3 and fun. :)
This is great advice. Many accidents have occurred over the years from climbers missing this gully switch on the decent. Pay attention to this crossover on the ascent, so you don't overshoot and miss it on the descent.

Many people, including myself, will list Crestone Needle as their favorite 14er for good reason. The solid, conglomerate rock is a blast to climb on (handholds are plentiful) and the views in the South Colony Lakes area are outstanding !
"Life is not measured by the breaths you take, but by the moments that take your breath away."
alsrun
Posts: 143
Joined: 6/24/2007
14ers: 50 
13ers: 1
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by alsrun »

Immediately after entering the West gully wrap a piece of surveyor's tape around a rock and leave it there to remind you where the crossover is on the way back. Be certain to take the tape out with you on your way back.
User avatar
Mtnman200
Posts: 1112
Joined: 9/26/2012
14ers: 58  1 
13ers: 440
Trip Reports (85)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Mtnman200 »

You don't have to switch gullies; you can just stay in the same gully all the way up and then return the same way. Also, make sure to wear a climbing helmet, as I've had careless climbers above me knock rocks loose and not even bother to call out a warning.
User avatar
BillMiddlebrook
Site Administrator
Posts: 6910
Joined: 7/25/2004
14ers: 58  46  19 
13ers: 172 44 37
Trip Reports (2)
 
Contact:

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

Mtnman200 wrote:You don't have to switch gullies; you can just stay in the same gully all the way up and then return the same way. Also, make sure to wear a climbing helmet, as I've had careless climbers above me knock rocks loose and not even bother to call out a warning.
The OP mentioned a desire to avoid Class 4 terrain so I wouldn't recommend the direct route up the eastern gully. While the crossover to the west gully is fairly stiff Class 3, it's easier than the Class 4 moves required when sticking to the east gully alternative.
"When I go out, I become more alive. I just love skiing. The gravitational pull. When you ski steep terrain... you can almost get a feeling of flying." -Doug Coombs
User avatar
Mtnman200
Posts: 1112
Joined: 9/26/2012
14ers: 58  1 
13ers: 440
Trip Reports (85)
 

Re: Gauging Preparedness for Crestone Needle

Post by Mtnman200 »

Maybe my memory's getting faulty in my old age, 'cuz I don't recall anything in the east gully that seemed like Class 4. Or maybe I was just having too much fun on the fantastic conglomerate rock to notice... :-D
"Adventure without risk is not possible." - Reinhold Messner
Post Reply