Elbrus recently?

[HikerHankey]

All, I have been searching the forums for information on Elbrus (unguided) and a good deal of information is included on the site, but generally, it is not current. Has anyone been there in the last two years or so? I'm looking to head that way with a friend in June 2014 and wanted to see what current information is available.
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks.
-Hankey

[MountainHiker]

We were there 2 years ago. Here’s the report on summitpost:
http://www.summitpost.org/elbrus-north-route/726384

[mtnjim]

I was over there May 2012 for the Red Fox Elbrus races. The climb is very straightforward, no objective dangers in good weather. Could be tricky in bad weather since it's just a big white double dome without a lot of landmarks. The Red Fox people took care of all the paperwork so don't have any experience with that. What are your plans for that? Maybe Pilgrim? Other than the visa to get into the country, there really isn't a lot of bureaucratic hassle. The only thing I can think of is the visa registration which would be taken care of by your hotel. No special permissions for Elbrus that I'm aware of though there is a special border permit required for areas south of there.

I flew into Moscow, then to MRV, the transfer to Azau that I thought had been arranged with red Fox wasn't there so I bargained for a taxi outside the airport and got a price of 3000 rubles, about $100. It would be possible to just fly in and make all arrangements as you go but could be a real hassle without some knowledge of Russian. if I were to return on my own, I would pay for the Pilgrim light package just to avoid the possible hassles, get accommodations taken care of, bunk at the Barrels, etc. Planning on using the barrels or camping? Gas cartridges were available in Terskol, also some small markets there.

Not sure what kind of info you're looking for....the insurgent activities that had the area closed two years ago seem to have abated. At least I haven't heard anything about any problems for over a year. Hmm, be sure you do some research on getting a visa well ahead of time as the Russians like to make it just as difficult for us as we do for them.

I took the lift up a few times for strolls to Pashtukova Rocks and a bit above to acclimatize for the races but didn't do quite enough. I did okay in the Vertical Kilometer which started in Azau and went to...well, wherever a 3,281 foot elevation gain took us, but two days later in the Skyrace from Azau to the summit, I missed the cut off at the saddle by 6 minutes, 5:51 rather than the required 5:45 . Did 10000' of the 10800' climb . This getting old is a bunch of bull

Let us know how it goes.

JimS

[HikerHankey]

Gentlemen, thank you for the replies. I enjoyed the trip report as it really speaks to being able to adapt and overcome while traveling abroad. From my experience, that is what foreign travel is all about!
Jim, great information and exactly what I was looking for. I had seen some of these companies listed, but as I noted in the original post, they were dated, so I didn't know if they were still out there. After looking at how inexpensive they are (compared to Western companies) I am going to discuss with my friend as these services look like they may make getting arrangements handled much easier.
I appreciate the responses and will keep everyone posted once I get plans set.
-Hankey

[vusteph]

One of my coworkers/friends just summitted last Tuesday.

i believe they went with this group - http://www.pilgrim-tours.com/main.shtml?references" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

he doesn't get back til sunday but if you have any specific questions I can ask him.

[HikerHankey]

VUSteph, just read this post. Thanks. It looks like the Pilgrim tours may be the way to go. I don't have any specifics right now, but I am always looking for good trip reports if he put one toghether.
-Hankey

[vusteph]

He doesn't write trip reports but this is what he told me:

+He did a couple of acclimating hikes as part of his tour. This helped a lot of course
+On summit day his team did not rope up. Crevasse danger was low since they were mostly covered up. Several other teams were roped up.
+he constantly sipped water (every minute or so, just a tiny sip) to 1. stay hydrated 2. keep his hose from freezing
+his friend had a slightly harder time, he threw up several times on the way up
+he felt really good about the climb overall and was really happy with the Pilgrim group tour. I believe there were 6 people in his group

good luck!

[SteveBonowski]

CMC has used CET Neva Mountaineering from St. Petersburg for several climbs of Mt. Elbrus (2007, 2010, 2012) and an attempt on Muztagh Ata (2008). Good service and highly recommended.

Ivan Moshnikov or Lisa at http://www.cetneva.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . Feel free to PM me if any questions.

[Traveler]

I'm trying to get recent information on climbing Elbrus, so resurrecting this thread.

Hankey, did you end up going?! Has anyone from this forum climbed it in the last couple of years? Any thoughts or comments appreciated.

Any recommendations on good in-country guides? CET Neva and Pilgrim were recommended a couple of years ago. Does anyone have personal experience with them?

Thanks!