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If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

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If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby Boggy B » Mon May 06, 2013 8:39 pm

If you were in the party of four who went up LB on Saturday... here you are (from UN 13100):
DSC03943.JPG
DSC03943.JPG (263.57 KiB) Viewed 1286 times


I assume congrats are in order.

:-D

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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby SurfNTurf » Tue May 07, 2013 10:13 am

I was up there as part of a group of five Saturday. That looks like the West Ridge entrance gully, however, and we were well beyond that by the time the sun hit it. Another large group (also 5 folks) started very late; I think they mentioned being from Meetup.com. It's probably them. What time did you take this? Either way, cool shot and thanks for sharing.
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby Dex » Tue May 07, 2013 10:43 am

I have two questions:

1. What is the angle of that slope?

2. I that the proper way for a group to go up it? They seem close to me. If the lead person to falls he can take the followers with him.
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby SchralpTheGnar » Tue May 07, 2013 11:19 am

That looks about 40 degrees and that's standard operating procedure for couloir climbing.

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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby BillMiddlebrook » Tue May 07, 2013 11:32 am

While it looks pretty steep from that angle, and probably is close to 40 in spots, a fall in that couloir would be pretty easy to stop right now since the snow surface is rough and not too slick. Here's a shot from the day before:

Image

Yes, in days prior to this shot, climbers had been glissading that couloir. Not sure that was a good idea, though.
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby seth0687 » Tue May 07, 2013 10:41 pm

BillMiddlebrook wrote:Yes, in days prior to this shot, climbers had been glissading that couloir. Not sure that was a good idea, though.


When we climbed our whole group glissaded this Col from just about the top and I didn't think it was that much worse than glissading from the Grays/Torreys Saddle....Then again, I love me a good glissade :twisted: :shock: \:D/

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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby BillMiddlebrook » Wed May 08, 2013 6:53 am

You obviously had some good snow for that one!
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby Dex » Wed May 08, 2013 9:32 am

Thanks for the replies - I'm just wanting to learn.
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby djkest » Wed May 08, 2013 9:51 am

So to be clear, this is not the hourglass gulley?
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby KeithK » Wed May 08, 2013 10:03 am

djkest wrote:So to be clear, this is not the hourglass gulley?


Correct... west ridge gulley.

I, too, glissaded that whole POS once upon a time. Cut my time from absurdly slow to just under absurdly slow. Who needs skis when you're shaped like a bowling ball?
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Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby SurfNTurf » Wed May 08, 2013 10:03 am

djkest wrote:So to be clear, this is not the hourglass gulley?


Nope, this is the gully that takes you from Lake Como to the West Ridge. You then traverse the ridge a ways to the base of the Hourglass.
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“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe

"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper

Re: If you climbed Little Bear 5/4

Postby bergsteigen » Wed May 08, 2013 10:12 am

KeithK wrote:Who needs skis when you're shaped like a bowling ball?


Oh Keith! While I was skiing down that slope that you glissaded, I remembered how fast you rocketed down that thing. I think you would have beat me to the bottom! Of course, I was enjoying myself and the good corn snow with my skis. \:D/
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