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Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"?

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"?

Postby PolishPete » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:32 am

We have a trip coming up for this weekend out to CO. Our original plan was to do a couloir climb, but nothing seems to be in.

With that said, I guess our classic "go-to" route would be Long's via the Keyhole.

Anyone have any recent conditions for Long's, and/or a a couloir that might be in? Doesn't necessarily have to be 14er, could be 13er or what not...just looking for something fun (class 3) and on the snow if possible.

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby paxtonsnjones27 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:41 pm

Refrigerator Couloir on Ice Mountain! Rated Class 4 but not that difficult. 45 degrees and a short section that is 51 degrees. It is a long ways in, but if you are thinking of doing Longs you got to be in good shape. On Ice Mountain you actually get two couloirs. The first leading up to the main bowl is really narrow and tons of fun. The main couloir is very wide, yet long...2000 vert? Probably the reason for Class 4.

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby PolishPete » Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:17 pm

paxtonsnjones27 wrote:Refrigerator Couloir on Ice Mountain! Rated Class 4 but not that difficult. 45 degrees and a short section that is 51 degrees. It is a long ways in, but if you are thinking of doing Longs you got to be in good shape. On Ice Mountain you actually get two couloirs. The first leading up to the main bowl is really narrow and tons of fun. The main couloir is very wide, yet long...2000 vert? Probably the reason for Class 4.


We were up there last year actually. Awesome climb. Got turned around in waste deep snow near the base of the 'Fridge Couloir itself. (started too late).

Anybody been up there and seen the conditions? Avy safe? Good snow?

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby PolishPete » Wed May 01, 2013 6:39 am

On a similar note...anyone been through Glacier Gorge or up Long's via the Trough recently?

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby illusion7il » Wed May 01, 2013 7:09 am

Someone posted a trip report from this past weekend. Pictures show them skiing the homestretch.

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=13445

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby PolishPete » Thu May 02, 2013 10:52 am

Well, the weather looks doable. So we're going to do Long's via the keyhole. Hike up Friday, setup camp, overnight, summit attempt Saturday.

I'll provide some pics/conditions once we're back.

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby Kevin Baker » Thu May 02, 2013 9:32 pm

PolishPete wrote:We have a trip coming up for this weekend out to CO. Our original plan was to do a couloir climb, but nothing seems to be in.

With that said, I guess our classic "go-to" route would be Long's via the Keyhole.

Anyone have any recent conditions for Long's, and/or a a couloir that might be in? Doesn't necessarily have to be 14er, could be 13er or what not...just looking for something fun (class 3) and on the snow if possible.


I was on Longs Sat and the Keyhole route will still have a lot of snow to deal with this weekend. We came over from Meeker and bailed at the top of Keplinger's couloir as we ran out of time. We could see the Narrows holding a lot more snow than it did this winter, and that is one of the drier sections of the Keyhole route. Longs also picked up a few more inches of snow this week.
Always do what you are afraid to do. -Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby PolishPete » Sun May 05, 2013 1:36 pm

Lots of snow up there. Without snow shoes, hiked up to Chasm Junction (packed trail). Couldn't make the boulderfield despite perfect weather and almost no wind. From Chasm Junction to the boulderfield post holed to our knees and its far too much of a hike for us with time running out on Friday, no snow shoes, and winter packs. Thus, camped at Chasm Junction, and in the morning decided to make an attempt Mt. Lady Washington. 2 guys stayed in the tent (felt like crap), myself and another guy started up. He turned around about 1/3 of the way up, I made the top. Took about 4 hours from the base to the top. Deep snow on Mt. Lady Washington (post holed to my knees and waist at most points). Had to pick a line up that included as many rocks and boulders as possible. There was another guy who went up ahead of me with snow shoes. They didn't help him much (but still better than no snow shoes). I tried to follow his tracks to no avail. I was better off picking a line with the rocks. It was a battle though. Every step to my knees or deeper in between any rocks I could get to.

Followed the guys tracks down-climbing into the boulderfield. Big mistake on my part, but for some reason I wanted mental confirmation that the entire boulder field was full of snow and we made a good choice to stay at Chasm. Turns out it was the right choice. We would have never made the boulderfield. We watched 3 guys skin in on ski's, and they were making awesome time from treeline to the keyhole. However, with no snowshoes or ski's, I had a wonderful LONG hike out. Post holed again knees or deeper EVERY STEP from mid-boulderfield to tree line. (the rest of my party broke camp and were working their way down as I was, and we "met" in the valley). The "bowl" that leads to the valley/tree line had a slide in it. I'm no avy expert, but it looked reasonably fresh, middle of the bowl, maybe 40 - 50 ft wide, and about 3/4 of the "height" of the bowl. Tried to get a pic, but wouldn't turn out with the light bouncing off the snow.

Here's some pics from 05/04/13.

Image

Image

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby unclegar » Sun May 05, 2013 1:54 pm

Congrats on the MLW summit! I have climbed it in similar conditions and also used the rock to rock as much as possible method. Cool pic of the clouds coming up from the Diamond/Chasm Lake area.
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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby TomPierce » Sun May 05, 2013 7:10 pm

Congrats, Peter, a strong effort! Yep, it's a classic late snow year here along the Front range, lots of snow up there. Looks like it was quite the aerobic adventure!
-Tom

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby jkillgore » Mon May 06, 2013 10:43 am

We were the group on skis up there Saturday. Plan was to summit via keyhole, then descend through keps and then add in some more skiing. Weather changed pretty quick over the day, and once we got a view of the very snowy narrows, we decided to call it and ski back down the trough in pretty good conditions with tough viz. This did give the benefit of a brutal climb back to the keyhole.

So, general conditions report for what we saw on 05/04/2013:
Continuous snow from TH to 40' below keyhole. Skis recommended
Good snow on traverse to Trough. Felt secure and stable, YMMV. 24-30" of consolidated snow in trough. Pits revealed no rotten early season snow. YMMV. Buddy and I on AT skinned most of the trough, but buddy on splitboard had to boot it due to the limits of soft boots on rock slab kick turns. 1-2' of snow across narrows. Rope would have made it casual, but the team decided it wasnt worth proceeding in a white out.

Video of conditions:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxDhXDOZFJ8

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Re: Long's Conditions? (via Keyhole) Anything similar "in"

Postby George James » Mon May 06, 2013 1:40 pm

/\ Saw your tracks in the trough, wondered if I would find you on the internets today.
I'm now convinced that pretty much everyone that does anything in the mountains posts about it on the internet.
Who am I to be any different I guess, so here's some conditions photos for anyone interested:

El Narrows, Skinco de Mayo:
Narrows.jpg
Narrows.jpg (265.8 KiB) Viewed 622 times


El Homestretch, mismo día:
Homestretch.jpg
Homestretch.jpg (226.61 KiB) Viewed 622 times

Practically continuous snow all the way to the top from the Turista Gorge TH. Bien.

Salud

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