Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

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Water_Boy
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Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by Water_Boy »

My gf and I are planning on doing either Beirdstat or Evans via Guallena pass this Friday. Due to the nature of Evans being extremely popular in the summer, a winter ascent is more appealing to us. Does anyone have some good beta regarding this? We are planning on trying the line that is the third or fourth picture on this TR.

http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.ph ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I know this is a judgement call, but is this route doable without crampons and an ice axe?? Also, any idea of the avy danger here, and if so, is it possible to stay on slopes less than 35 degrees?

We may just end up marching up beirdstadt if this seems out of our reach, but any feedback would be AMAZING!!

Thanks guys! Also, please message me if you want to join us on Friday!!!!!

-Trent
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lurker
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Re: Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by lurker »

Waterboy,

you've hit it on the head, it is a judgement call and any advice you get from an internet forum is suspect until you are on the slope in question.

I do not believe you will have any need for an ice axe or crampons, but with the perpetual west wind loading lots of snow in the gulley you specified you might.
Snow shoes will be needed.

Years ago we did Evans from the west in winter, but we approached it from further west and went up the south slope of Gray Wolf.

Snowshoes were handy down lower and if you come up from Georgetown you could bypass most of the road leaving it at the first (or second?) switchback up from the Winter Parking lot.

In January there was a very established snowshoe trench heading up the drainage that will lead you right around Gray Wolf.
good luck and post pictures

lurker
The Mountains are Calling, and I must Go.
--John Muir
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Yikes
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Re: Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by Yikes »

Will be leaving the winter TH around 6-6:30. Weather looks good before the storm rolls in. See you up there.
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Re: Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by USAKeller »

Let me know how conditions are please!
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Re: Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by Yikes »

not sure how the storm is hitting right now (dry in Salida), but as of yesterday...

road to the closure completely dry
packed snow to the pass
i choose a crappy route through the willows (is there a non-crappy route?) and wallowed in knee deep snow to get across the basin
i made it up to the tundra before calling it quits(didn't want to push it before the storm); was really dry on the tundra
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Re: Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by TravelingMatt »

Yikes wrote:not sure how the storm is hitting right now (dry in Salida)

In Dillon, four inches since last night, and it should keep snowing all day.
You never know what is enough until you know what is more than enough. -- William Blake
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Water_Boy
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Re: Mt. Evans via Guallena Pass Beta

Post by Water_Boy »

Thinking we are going to make a push this friday - the weather looks much more friendly. Sounds like everyone hates going through the willows lol. I feel like bagging Evans from this side this time of year would be a pretty bad ass way to do the most crowded summit in the summertime. Let me know if you want to take another stab at it haha.

-Trent
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