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Beginner rock shoes?

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Beginner rock shoes?

Postby yedi » Sun Mar 03, 2013 12:54 pm

So I'm getting back into climbing for the first time since high school, and I'm looking to get a pair of climbing shoes. I would guess that 75% of the climbing I'll be doing over the next year or so will be in the gym, with some trad following mixed in. I've got a wide foot and was thinking that the evolv defy might work well. Anyone have any other suggestions?

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby TeamDino5280 » Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:51 pm

Evolv are good for the price you should be able to pick some up for 80 or less .

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby seth0687 » Sun Mar 03, 2013 5:25 pm

I personally don't like evolv. They had many more issues blowing toes than sportiva or 5.10 or the like. For comfy beginner shoes you can't go wrong with the sportiva mytho. I am biased to sportiva but I have also had nothing but great luck with their shoes. Sportiva can be narrower than other manufacturers so check 5.10 as well because they tend to fit wider.

I'm not sure how long ago you stopped climbing but shoes have probably changed quite a bit. Don't be afraid to look at slippers, velcro, or lace ups. I actually prefer either a slipper or Velcro because it allows me to bring a pretty aggressive and consequently uncomfy shoe on long routes and when I get to the belay I just slip it off without having to untie anything.

Lastly, depending on how great or poor your footwork is look on mountainproject.com for a used pair if shoes so you don't blow out the toe of a 160$ pair of shoes your first month.

Sportiva vipers and mythos were my first shoes and I still love them to this day.

Good luck,

Seth

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby justiner » Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:58 pm

I actually started sport climbing/bouldering for the first time, since high school too. I'm using the same shoes I purchased when I was ~16 (I stopped during college, when I moved from CT to Boulder, CO - if you can believe that). Obviously, the same exact model isn't sold, anymore, but they're basically an older model Sportiva Mythos. I got them resoled at Rock & Resole in Boulder and they're good as new.

I have a pretty wide foot - my Montrail trail running shoes are a little too tight for me, in the toebox (the NB Minumus 00 roads are perfect).

My Mythos are tolerable to wear, without taking them off, for 2 hours - I like the laces. I kind of like their not-too-aggressive look and they fit my foot perfectly, no doubt from the "pre-stretch" of my formative years. My left foot - or the little toe on my left foot is bigger than my right, and gets squeezed, no matter what I do. I can do damage control with the Mythos, by being careful, while lacing them up.

I think they're a size 9 1/2, and I usually wear an 11 running shoe.

I'm a little surprised at the price - ~$140 new. I swear I bought these at around $90, but give anything 15 years, and see what happens to the price...
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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Sun Mar 03, 2013 8:05 pm

yedi wrote:So I'm getting back into climbing for the first time since high school, and I'm looking to get a pair of climbing shoes. I would guess that 75% of the climbing I'll be doing over the next year or so will be in the gym, with some trad following mixed in. I've got a wide foot and was thinking that the evolv defy might work well. Anyone have any other suggestions?


I like that shoe. I was out hiking with friends and family in the Garden last year, and stopped by a climb where some college kids were working the line. They offered a rope, but I had no shoes with me, so one guy had my size in those shoes and let me use them. They really work pretty well. Two weeks later I got a pair. Used them on Ellingwood Arete last September. (see TR on this site.) Use them in the Garden as a casual shoe.

I'm not 100% on any shoe currently available that I know of. That said, I use the Anasazi Blanco's for serious leads on most any rock, and the Miura's for seconding and top-roping higher grades, especially at Shelf.

Best ever shoe? In my opinion, the La Sportiva black Tao, resoled with C-4. That shoe danced to begin with, and when resoled with the Stealth, was unstoppable. Why can't they make shoes like that now? : /

Anyway, whatever you get, pick 'em up at REI, so you can toss 'em back to the g-sale if they don't work out. As long as the policy is not abused, the coop does just fine, and the membership ends up with what works. It's the best deal on the planet.

Good luck, be safe, climb hard!

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby nkan02 » Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:18 pm

I second the opinion about La Sportiva Mythos. They were my beginner shoes as well. They work pretty well up to 5.10s. I know some people climb even harder grades in them, but I prefer 5.10 Anasazi with their sticky soles and good edging for harder routes. By comparison, Mythos feel like slippers. A seriously comfortable shoe, great for multi-pitch routes.

Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby forbins_mtn » Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:23 pm

i'm struggling finding rock shoes for my really wide feet. I'm not the kind of person who is built for extreme technical rock climbing - but i'd still like to find a shoe that doesn't make my feet scream within ten minutes. Or is that just the way it goes? tighter, the better kind of deal

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:52 pm

forbins_mtn wrote:i'm struggling finding rock shoes for my really wide feet. I'm not the kind of person who is built for extreme technical rock climbing - but i'd still like to find a shoe that doesn't make my feet scream within ten minutes. Or is that just the way it goes? tighter, the better kind of deal


No, I don't think so. Try the La Sportiva Nago. It's a pretty comfy shoe. (As opposed to the Comfy Chair.) (Apologies to Terry Gilliam.) (And the Roman Catholic Church.) (Sorry, couldn't help that.)

The Nago is a lace-up shoe, works pretty good, and sticks ok, and is comfy for all-day use.

Mostly, like Fletch said, just find one that's comfortable. Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition.





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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby MikeyC » Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:54 pm

My first pair of rock shoes were the 5.10 coyotes. I have pretty wide feet and sportivas don't work at all. For a comfy shoe, the coyotes are great in my opinion. I wear them for long routes on easier terrain up to 5.10. I'm still looking for a shoe for harder stuff.

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby seth0687 » Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:58 pm

forbins_mtn wrote:i'm struggling finding rock shoes for my really wide feet. I'm not the kind of person who is built for extreme technical rock climbing - but i'd still like to find a shoe that doesn't make my feet scream within ten minutes. Or is that just the way it goes? tighter, the better kind of deal


You just have to work through that to an extent. My mythos and Vipers are super comfy, I've downclimbed gullies in them when I left my approach shoes at the base of the climb before ](*,) :wft:

But I will say, my solutions are so tight I can barely make it through a boulder problem before ripping them off. In time you get "used" to some of the pain lol.

Seth

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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby GregMiller » Sun Mar 03, 2013 10:30 pm

I've been pretty happy with my ~ 10 year old 5.10 Spire climbing shoes (they're purple, but as far as I can tell they're the same shoe as is out now, just not blue). Laces are nice because you can really get them adjusted to your foot, and I'm fine being in them for hours (I mean, I probably wouldn't want to be in them all day, but they're not causing me any great pain). That being said, my next purchase will probably be something a bit more aggressive that I'll want Velcro on in order to be able to take them off more easily.
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Re: Beginner rock shoes?

Postby Dave B » Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:13 am

Fletch wrote:Get what's comfortable.


+1,000

forbins_mtn wrote:i'm struggling finding rock shoes for my really wide feet. I'm not the kind of person who is built for extreme technical rock climbing


Same story with me. With that said I've found the LS Miura (laces not the VS), sized 1/2 size below my street shoe, to be both incredibly comfortable and incredibly sensitive and outstanding at edging (the XS edge rubber isn't the best for smears though). I've worn them on 6-7 pitch climbs without ever needing to take them off. Granted, they made my toes bleed the first two times I wore them so also a +1 to this:

seth0687 wrote:You just have to work through that to an extent.


If you get Evolvs make sure they are comfortable the day you buy them, the synthetic leather doesn't stretch any more than 1/10 a size.
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