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Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Sat Feb 23, 2013 6:57 am

ElFuegoDelaMuerte wrote:This is the system I use but I'm curious; is there a flaw in my system? Should I use a tibloc? I don't know. Now I need to think... And drink a beer... I'll drink a beer and think about it.


Drink another one for me! The only reason I use a tibloc instead of a prussik is that it's what I'm used to and I also carry it as part of my "rock rescue kit". Either work just fine. The tiblok weighs a lofty 1.4 oz so I figure it's nice to have simply to have the benefit of the device being easier to slide with mittens than a prussik. Also, I don't carry cordallettes anymore (can open, worms everywhere!), I've been using webolettes and find that they work just as well and weight half as much.
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"Nature never did betray the heart that loved her." - Wordsworth

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby ElFuegoDelaMuerte » Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:39 am

Got it, fair enough. The note about the prusik and mittens is a good point. And it's best to do whatever is most familiar. Anyway, it's a sweet video. Nicely done.

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Sat Feb 23, 2013 2:57 pm

ElFuegoDelaMuerte wrote:Got it, fair enough. The note about the prusik and mittens is a good point. And it's best to do whatever is most familiar. Anyway, it's a sweet video. Nicely done.


Thanks. I actually always used my prussiks instead of my tibloc until I actually figured out how to use it. It's pretty snappy, you should try it one day.

Alby426 wrote:By the way, to be annoyingly technical, this a 2:1 and not a 3:1 as you only travel twice as far as the rescued person. I say this just so, when it takes 100 lbs effort to lift a 200 lbs person, you are not surprised. :wft:


Actually the system in the video is indeed a 3:1 or a "Z Haul" setup. A 2:1, also known as a "C Haul", is made by fixing a line then dropping a loop to the person below. They will clip the loop to their harness with either a carabiner or better yet, a pulley. This is also known as an "assisted hoist" and is a common way to help a partner up on rock routes. Only problem with it is something has to be rigged to keep ahold of the rope as the slack is taken up. The best way would be to use a traxion device instead of a pulley on the harness of the person being hauled up since the slack will only move one way through the device.

Here is a good photo showing all the different setups that I found by googling hauling setups.
Image
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby MtnClimber82 » Sun Feb 24, 2013 5:49 pm

Brian C wrote:
Alby426 wrote:By the way, to be annoyingly technical, this a 2:1 and not a 3:1 as you only travel twice as far as the rescued person. I say this just so, when it takes 100 lbs effort to lift a 200 lbs person, you are not surprised. :wft:


Actually the system in the video is indeed a 3:1 or a "Z Haul" setup.

+1

And great job with the dub-over, Brian. I think it is much easier to follow here and it is educational and helpful. I have often thought about making videos like this too! :)

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Alby426 » Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:50 pm

Yes, actually, it is a 3:1. Boy did I have to think about that one :wft:

I like your setup, I use the same but, it may be required to have a second recuer to prevent the upper Prusik from jammig into the upper pulley.

One more thing that may be very useful is to practice climbing on a rope using 2 Prusiks. It is very likely that the person that fell into the crevasse will be ok and, it is easier fer that climber to self rescue than to be rescued.

Thank you again for sharing and, great job with videoing in such windy conditions.
Last edited by Alby426 on Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby ElFuegoDelaMuerte » Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:28 pm

Brian C wrote:
Thanks. I actually always used my prussiks instead of my tibloc until I actually figured out how to use it. It's pretty snappy, you should try it one day.


And perhaps I will Sir. It does seem like a reasonable item to carry in ones rescue gear. And likely would be easier to use... After several beers and consideration I do believe you have a solid point.

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby pvnisher » Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:44 am

Alby426 wrote:One more thing that may be very useful is to practice climbing on a rope using 2 Prusiks


And practicing gets your prussik lengths set up properly. Having them the right length makes the job much easier.

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby yedi » Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:30 pm

pvnisher wrote:Having them the right length makes the job much easier.


So true. I tried climbing up a rope the other day with a new set of prusiks that I had apparently mis-measured. The prusik running to my harness was too long, meaning I had to pull myself up the rope using only my arms. I ended up at the ceiling, nearly upside down, with no strength left in my arms to pull myself upright. Not a good scene at all.

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Sun May 12, 2013 6:11 pm

For anybody who is interested, I went back out and practiced setting up a hauling system and replaced the upper prusik/pulley and a lower pulley system with a Petzl Micro Traxion and a DMM Revolver carabiner. I made another video showing 2 different setup methods and a weight comparison between the 2 setups. Seems like a cool alternative to the "traditional" setup.

Can be found here...
http://www.brianinthewild.com/crevasse-training-modified-31-haul.html
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby wildlobo71 » Sun May 12, 2013 8:07 pm

Thanks a lot, Brian! Terrific effort. I did crevasse rescue training just last month and this reminds me that practice is the best way to not forget!
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