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carry trad gear on sport climb

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carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby pvnisher » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:29 pm

Do you ever carry trad gear on a sport climb?
I do not, and generally do not see anyone doing so, but met a guy who does for the purpose of protecting a run-out pitch, or if he comes across a sketchy bolt, backing up an anchor, or whatever.
Since a minimal set of stoppers (say, 5-11) only weighs about 9 oz, seems like not a terrible idea, depending on the type of climb, etc.

Anyway, just curious if any of you did, particularly when heading to a new area where you don't really have any idea what to expect.

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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby ElFuegoDelaMuerte » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:57 pm

I typically do. For the same reasons already cited. I bring it to the area and if it looks like I'm going to need it as I'm gearing up for a pitch I'll put it on my harness. Otherwise (typically), I just leave it in the bag. I'm not huge on sport climbing in the first place, and I've rarely come across a sport pitch where I could even place it but I definitely have used it before for some really thoughtless bolt placements or sketchy bolts.

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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby Brian C » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:01 pm

Sport.....climb????? Don't know what you're talking about! :wft:

Seriously though, I don't but it's rare that I sport climb. If the bolter did a reasonable job, there should be bolts where you need them.
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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby climbingaggie03 » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:25 pm

I don't mostly because if it's sport climbing, there's probably not any place to put gear, that's why someone went to the trouble of drilling bolts. That said, I might throw a few pieces in the bottom of my pack if I'm going to a new area, or someplace where I might need a couple of pieces of gear. I've also run across a climb here and there that was mixed protection. I can think of a climb that I did at the canal zone that had an awkward 20ft runnout near the top, it wasn't terribly hard but I'd hate to take that fall.

After I climbed it, I read about it on MP.com http://www.mountainproject.com/v/levada/106273826 If I'd had a cam with me on the climb, I would have placed it, but I didn't.

Here's another example http://www.mountainproject.com/v/deep-prok/105860714

I'd say I sometimes have it in my pack, but I almost always leave my gear on the ground, unless it's obvious that I'm going to need some protection. I don't think I'd ever carry any gear up "just in case" because it's sport climbing

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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:16 pm

Here, St. Matthew is actually pared down somewhat.

Yes, he insists on carrying a full trad rack, including tools, a wrench, a corkscrew, a... well, you get the idea.

I keep telling him he'd climb higher grades without all that crap. He keeps telling me I'd climb higher grades if I'd train with all that crap.

Where's the WTF smiley?

Oh, here we go.... :wft:



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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby climbingaggie03 » Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:06 am

I think he'd climb higher grades without that mustache :)

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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby DaveSwink » Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:21 am

Dancesatmoonrise wrote:Yes, he insists on carrying a full trad rack, including tools, a wrench, a corkscrew, a... well, you get the idea.


Is he supposed to be carrying any pro in the pic? I don't see it.

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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby ajkagy » Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:37 am

If i know the area and sport climb then no, maybe a few longer quick draws on the hardness for spots to minimize drag. New areas it can't hurt to have a few extra common pieces of pro.
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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:45 am

DaveSwink wrote:
Dancesatmoonrise wrote:Yes, he insists on carrying a full trad rack, including tools, a wrench, a corkscrew, a... well, you get the idea.


Is he supposed to be carrying any pro in the pic? I don't see it.


Just the cresent wrench in this photo. Most of the time when he pulls his harness out of the pack, it looks like a hula skirt, with all that stuff hanging off. Like I said, he's a bit pared down in this photo. Ah, Matt. He's a character.

climbingaggie03 wrote:I think he'd climb higher grades without that mustache :)


I think that was his facial hair period. Oh wait, last time I saw him he had the full beard. Looks like the kids may need to arm-up and take over the climbing legacy.

Hey Matt, you been climbing lately??

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Re: carry trad gear on sport climb

Postby Stone_man » Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:09 pm

Brian C wrote:If the bolter did a reasonable job, there should be bolts where you need them.


I consider myself a pretty well-traveled sport climber, and have learned that not all climbs are bolted 'intelligently'. I have indeed found pro, usually cams, to be useful on some sport climbs for peace of mind between sparsely bolted sections, or if you're pushing your limits a bit more it can be nice to throw in pro to reduce the fall factor for cruxy sections. Usually guidebooks or Mountain Project route pages do a decent job of informing you if pro is available and warranted, even on sport routes.

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