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Rainier Info pa pa pa please

14ers in California and Washington state or any other peak in the USA
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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby MtnClimber82 » Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:48 am

We did Rainier via Emmons last year as a group. We had pack weights as low as 33lbs and as heavy (for a similar sized person) at 67lbs. You will have a more enjoyable trip if you are able to cut it down at least into the 40lb range.

Definitely find a long sleeve light color shirt with SPF or UPF or whatever they call it so you don't have to slather on the sunscreen constantly. Get a hat that covers your neck for the same reason. A good pair of sunglasses are required for safety, you go blind up there, it can be a real problem (happened to one of our members).

As far as training, which leads right into taking the right gear. Spend as many days hiking high peaks in Colorado as you can. The endurance and altitude are more of a problem than climbing snow. Last year we did a few couloirs but mostly peaks with longer approaches. Learning to pace yourself is hugely important. Do multiday trips and focus on dialing in the gear that you need and get your pack as light as possible.

For food, I took an assortment of backpacking, easy to fix meals and was happy. We planned for a 3 day trip and extended to 4 because the weather was so nice (more relaxing). If I remember I packed about 1.75lbs of food per day. I came back with something like .75lbs/day of extra weight. So again, the more time you spend dialing in what you need the more able you will be to estimate what you need for all of it.

PM me if you have additional/specific questions.

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby peter303 » Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:14 am

There was a rental store in Paradise Valley when I was last there in 2007. It still appears to be there according to this website:
http://www.mountainguides.com/rainier-gear.shtml

There was a time the rangers would not issue you an unguided summit permit if you looked too green. They would look over your gear to see if you had enough for glacier travel. If not they asked you to go with a guide and probably take the pre-trip winter skills day course the guides often require. I do not know if this is still the case.

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby rjennings » Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:37 am

Here is my two cents:
1) First off...I have been up both DC Route and Emmons Glacier, and Emmons is a prettier, less trafficked, and more rewarding climb (but the approach in to Camp Sherman makes for a really long first day).
2) For gear, sunscreen and the best coverage sunglasses you can get are your best friends (for the first trip, I opted for some glacier glasses - Julbo Explorers - as they are good quality sunglasses and I use them year-round climbing here). The first trip up on DC, my pack was somewhere in the 60 lb range; the second trip on EG, my pack was in the 40 lb range (including me carrying the team rope). The second trip was much more enjoyable and easier (given I was in better shape too). Narrow your packing list down to as little as you are comfortable with.
3) If you haven't done any snow-camping, I would highly recommend a closed-cell foam pad and a lightly insulated air mattress...you can use the closed-cell foam pad for hanging out outside the tent without worrying about puncturing holes in it. BRING EAR PLUGS!!! The camps on those two routes can get very noisy with people rolling into camp late and those that are not conscious of those that need to get some sleep at 6:00 p.m. for a summit bid.
4) No matter what route you go, plan an extra day for weather. If you get off the mountain early, you can go stay in Seattle for a night and go to one of the many micro-breweries there.
5) Lastly, talk with your team about who really wants the summit and who can realistically get the summit...the mountain is hard (training ground for many well-known American high-altitude climbers). Knowing how your team will react and who will be able to push through the difficulty is key to having a successful trip. Take people's ability into account when determining schedules and planning for your days.

Enjoy the trip...it is a great mountain and the EG was one of the best climbs I have ever had.
"The mountains are calling, and I must go." -John Muir

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby SurfNTurf » Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:59 am

I found this page very helpful. It even has a gear list. :wink:

http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-climb-mt-rainier/507227
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"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby MountainHiker » Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:24 pm

Agree on allowing for weather days. On what would have been our first possible summit morning a storm blew through. We knew it was coming so we rode it out at Camp Muir. After getting the summit the following day we were just tired enough to hang at Muir another night. We could have packed down that same day but it was much more relaxing the way we did it.
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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby seth0687 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:33 am

speth wrote:
seth0687 wrote:Again, thanks very much guys!!

Is anyone else OCD about their gear lists or itineraries like I am...pershaps you put them in spreadsheets....perhaps I could take a gander at said spreadsheets lol.

Also, I was curious as to what amount of food and type of food your brought with you. I am planning on a two day ascent with a third day built in just incase.

Thanks again,

Seth


You're overthinking it. Are you going guided?


I always over think larger trips....helps to cut down on forgetting things, being caught unprepared, or other unintended surprises lol.

CO Native wrote:Try spelling it Rainier in your search and you might find some better info. :)

I recommend driving if you're going with a group of friends. The road trip is fun and you don't have to worry about renting a car there or buying fuel for your stove or being accosted by airport security. Saves a lot of money too, especially if you have a fuel efficient car to drive. It's about a 20 hour drive so you can do it in one long day.

I also use spreadsheets to plan my gear. I don't still have my list from Rainier though. I usually change the list for every big hike. I use it to have a check list that I go through on my final packing. I make sure that I actually look at every piece on my final check. It helps prevent those problems of getting halfway into a hike and realizing you've forgotten something critical. My list was last adapted for my Gannet Peak trip which was very similar gear. Let me know if you'd like a look at that one.


I am going to blame this mistake on the infamous Iphone Auto-correct...yea... that's the story and I'm sticking to it! By the way if you have the spreadsheets I wouldn't mind taking a look at them. email is s.luedtke AT hotmail DOT com

Thanks again for all the advice, looks like I have the last weekend in June open and/or the first two weeks in July so we shall see where the cards fall. I still cannot decide between the DC or the Emmons route.

Again, thanks for all the comments, info, and advice.

Seth

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby rjennings » Sat Jan 26, 2013 11:38 am

Seth,

Sent you a copy of my gear list via e-mail - should find it pretty helpful as to what I actually took.

Contemplating a trip out to either Rainier (via Emmons Glacier or Tahoma Glacier (with South Tahoma Headwall) or, depending on who I climb with, the Liberty Ridge) or to Mt. Adams/Mt. Hood. Should be there right around the same time as you...let me know when you nail down dates and I should know about route sometime soon.

Reid
"The mountains are calling, and I must go." -John Muir

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby seth0687 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:00 pm

rjennings wrote:Seth,

Sent you a copy of my gear list via e-mail - should find it pretty helpful as to what I actually took.

Contemplating a trip out to either Rainier (via Emmons Glacier or Tahoma Glacier (with South Tahoma Headwall) or, depending on who I climb with, the Liberty Ridge) or to Mt. Adams/Mt. Hood. Should be there right around the same time as you...let me know when you nail down dates and I should know about route sometime soon.

Reid


Got your email, thank you very much!! It appears as though I have the last week in June open and the first two weeks in July open. I have been talking with my employer about tacking down exactly when I can take off. I should have some rough dates very soon. I'll shoot you an email.

Thanks,

Seth

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby annajack25 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:15 pm

We summited last August. Three weeks before our summit, We spent a week or so in CO and climbed in order; Elbert, Missouri, Belford and La Plata. We feel backpacking at CO high altitudes really helped us acclimate as we live at sea level.
We pack up our hockey bags with all our gear and backpack, keeping them under 50# and fly from East Coast to West Coast. We have been doing it this way for a few years. You have to buy fuel in WA of course.
If you fly in to Seattle, REI rents all gear as you may know. They have store near airport. RMI also rents gear/clothes in Ashford, near the Park Entrance of Nisqually River (heading up to Paradise. If you are summiting Emmons, you must gear up before you drive over to the east side (sunrise). There are no stores in this area.

Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby shredthegnar10 » Sun Jan 27, 2013 1:27 am

July would be better (if you have the option) IMO, the weather seems to be more consistent by July whereas in June it can be a little more "iffy."

If you do end up having extra time in the area, absolutely check out Elysian Brewing in Seattle, and specifically drink the Immortal IPA :-D
There's a fine line between being a badass and being a dumbass.

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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby CO Native » Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:14 am

For those that asked here is my Gannett Gear list.

http://www.friesema.net/junk/gearlist.xls
(right click the link and select "save target as" then open it from the location you save it)

Obviously the fishing gear would not be appropriate for Rainier, and the mosquito clothing would be over kill. I'm usually the one making sure everyone knows which group gear they are responsible to bring. I hate hearing the words "I thought you brought that" on a trip. So I fill in names in the group column to identify who is responsible for each group item and send it to everyone in the group. Usually they give me a lot of crap about being so anal about things, but everyone is clear on who is bringing what and I think secretly sometimes they use the list to make sure they've got what they need. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

Also here's a photo of my Gannett Gear:
Image

and here's a photo of all my Rainier Gear:
Image

I always seem to get out of carrying the tent since I usually supply the rope.
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Re: Rainer Info pa pa pa please

Postby seth0687 » Mon Jan 28, 2013 4:25 am

Thanks CO Native.

For those who have been up Rainier in early July, what did you use for your bottom layers? I always run Cap2 under my softshell pants for ice climbing, but was contemplating getting a silk weight set to run under Cap3 under the softshell pants since it may be colder?!?

Thanks again for being an awesome sounding board for all my questions.

Seth

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