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Four Great Traverses in Winter?

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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby I Man » Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:18 pm

Dave B wrote:
I Man wrote:A CO Legend recently told me that climbing in winter in CO will prepare you for anything on the planet


Except glacier travel.


haha he was talking weather/conditions wise! Yea, CO is severely lacking in glaciers...its probably my #1 complaint about the climbing opportunities we have. But hey, at least we have Ice, Snow, Rock and Altitude :?: \:D/

In many ways, due to CO's unique snowpack issues, doing the Bells, or Wilson or these traverses in winter can have a much higher objective hazard and risk then going after some of the big boys.
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby Scott P » Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:06 pm

A CO Legend recently told me that climbing in winter in CO will prepare you for anything on the planet


Except glacier travel.


Or jungles. :-D Or hippos. While camping in a remote place in Africa, our tent got surrounded by a herd of hippos. So far it hasn't happened to us in Colorado. :-D
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby pvnisher » Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:26 pm

If these traverses were in the Alps the question would be who will be the first to solo the traverses in winter in less than 2 days. Those guys are crazy. An entirely different league.

http://www.examiner.com/article/kilian-jornet-sets-speed-record-on-courmayeur-chamonix-crossing

Jornet who was solo in his attempt traveled from Courmayeur, Italy to the summit of Mont Blanc via the technical Innominata Ridge and back down the opposite side to Chamonix, France, 42 kilometers distance, in 8:42:57.

Jornet left Courmayeur 3:53 am from the church square (elevation of 1000 meters) and headed out across the Val Veny towards the Monzino Refuge. The next section of the route included crossing glacier en route to the Bivac de les Eccles (4041m).
After crossing the glacier, Jornet carefully navigated a tricky rappel and a difficult section of climbing along the Innominata Ridge which included climbing sections of V+ difficulty and 60 degree slopes. He crested the ridge and ended up breaking trail across the final snowfield reaching the roof of Western Europe in 6 hours and 17 minutes.

After a short five minute respite on the Mont Blanc summit (4810m), Jornet descended down to Chamonix (995m) in just 2 hours and 19 minutes.

"This is a record time, considering that normal expeditions which tackle this route take 3 days to do it."

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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby seano732 » Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:28 pm

RoanMtnMan wrote:I agree, capping those 4 traverses in winter would prepare one for a lot. The things it doesn't prepare for though are high altitude, technical ice, glacier travel and coastal range weather. However, one would be hard pressed to find a better training ground than Colorado in winter to toughen a climber. Our winds, temps, terrain, and dicey snowpack are a potpourri of nastiness.


Totally agree; but stepping off the boot pack into waist deep sugar kinda reminds me of punching through the Carbon, without the panic and thoughts of immediate death and/or dismemberment. On a separate note, you've finally given me the name for that garage band I always wanted to start: Ladies and Gentleman.... POTPOURRI of NASTINESS! :YY

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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby 12ersRule » Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:28 pm

Scott P wrote:Or jungles. :-D Or hippos. While camping in a remote place in Africa, our tent got surrounded by a herd of hippos. So far it hasn't happened to us in Colorado. :-D



Once I was camping in Colorado and my tent got surrounded by a herd of hipsters! :shock:

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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby SilverLynx » Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:33 pm

49ersRule wrote:
Scott P wrote:Or jungles. :-D Or hippos. While camping in a remote place in Africa, our tent got surrounded by a herd of hippos. So far it hasn't happened to us in Colorado. :-D



Once I was camping in Colorado and my tent got surrounded by a herd of hipsters! :shock:

Were you in the Gore Range? :wink:
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby wildlobo71 » Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:38 pm

Image

I think he was in Loaded Joe's in Avon.
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby 12ersRule » Wed Jan 23, 2013 5:42 pm

^ Am I a hipster? The answer is NO

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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby Tory Wells » Wed Jan 23, 2013 6:06 pm

sgladbach wrote:I don't think anyone has attempted all four, but Aron did the Bells traverse.

Wow, that was just a month before his accident. Some perspective, there. Helluva feat though.
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby mts4602 » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:40 am

I Man wrote:CO's unique snowpack issues


I hear about this a lot on here, but I have no idea why this is the case (I'm from KY). Why is Colorado's snowpack different from Montana, Utah, the cascades...etc and how does this contribute to more avy prone conditions?
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby I Man » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:43 am

mts4602 wrote:
I Man wrote:CO's unique snowpack issues


I hear about this a lot on here, but I have no idea why this is the case (I'm from KY). Why is Colorado's snowpack different from Montana, Utah, the cascades...etc and how does this contribute to more avy prone conditions?


The Cascades are near the coast and thus Maritime. Colorado is 'continental' which means that our snowpack is much dryer and less condensed. I believe Montana and Utah have the same issues, but less population and less people in the mountains.
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Re: Four Great Traverses in Winter?

Postby Winter8000m » Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:47 am

Scott P wrote:
A CO Legend recently told me that climbing in winter in CO will prepare you for anything on the planet


Except glacier travel.


Or jungles. :-D Or hippos. While camping in a remote place in Africa, our tent got surrounded by a herd of hippos. So far it hasn't happened to us in Colorado. :-D



I think this is misleading. It will prepare you for the cold and being able to handle it. I feel the best preparation is actually doing what your goal is on a smaller scale which will in most cases take you out of CO. (For mountaineering, Rainier...etc.) 99% of stuff out there makes the Diamond look extremely tiny as far as climbing goes. I think CO is the first step in preparation. To say it will prepare you for anything on the planet, well sounds a little misleading. Just my opinion.
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