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Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Discussion area for peaks outside of the USA.
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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby Monster5 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:56 pm

^feel free to elaborate on where I am wrong. I described the new standard route and have pretty recent confirmation of it.

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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby herdbull » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:05 pm

None of the guide teams or others climbing have gone up that route for the most part of this year. I just spent 3 days hanging around the "hut" talking climbing and climbed myself and that doesn't appear to be the preferred route.

The route being utilized this season is somewhat of a split of going straight up, hitting the crater, and following it around and going all the way to your right and following the ridge line. You pretty much split the distance between the ridgeline and the big boulder. The last 500' gain is literally chopped steps on this route. Maybe we're talking the same route then?

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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby I Man » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:08 pm

herdbull wrote:You'll definitely need 8-10 days and don't listen to Monster5. That route he's talking about is not "in" and hasn't been all year. If you use a guide service expect to be in rope teams. At least on Orizaba but I don't think a guide is necessary.


Umm, there are few on this site who you should listen to more. I was just down there also and agree with what he says.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby Monster5 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:00 pm

herdbull wrote:Maybe we're talking the same route then?


From your description, we may be talking the same route. Probably just confusion in the names? The old standard route, straight up the Jamapa Glacier to the ice needle, has been out for years. The ridge of gold variation shown below (hooking right after the Labyrinth - a bit distorted in this sketch) is the new standard route. Sound right?

Image
Last edited by Monster5 on Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby wildlobo71 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:05 pm

...and this same variation - the Ridge of Gold, is what Matt and I, along with others, took over Thanksgiving... when we summited, we topped out off the glacier and had barely 20 yards to the summit marker.

Did you see a Dales Pale Ale can there by any chance?
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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby herdbull » Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:50 pm

sorry, my bad. Yeah, that's the route I was referring to. 3 months of climbers and not a lot of new snow make it pretty easy to pick out.

Again, enough can't be said about the Cancholas, the food, the hospitality and the friendliness of their home. They love doing what they are doing and have a closeness not seen in a lot of homes in the states.

Didn't see the Dales Pale Ale but someone did leave this:
Attachments
Orizaba Jan. 2013_057 small.jpg
Orizaba Jan. 2013_057 small.jpg (309.42 KiB) Viewed 386 times

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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby rkalsbeek » Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:47 am

I'm planning on climbing Orizaba in November. I'm looking at this as a great way to enjoy the journey as well as the destination. By journey, I mean this entire year of training and getting outside to prepare for Orizaba, and climbs in the mid term future (Aconcagua, Denali, maybe some Himalaya action!)

I'm looking for thoughts on best ways to train and what I should train for? I'm trying to hone in a weekly schedule to stick to (did I say that I'm as excited for training as well as the actual summit attempt!!)

Currently, I run at work on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and run over the weekend. Hit the bouldering gym on all other days, but wondering if there are specific high alpine workouts I could do? Maybe I just need to keep climbing mountains on the weekends?

Thanks!!
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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby I Man » Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:53 am

rkalsbeek wrote:Currently, I run at work on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and run over the weekend. Hit the bouldering gym on all other days, but wondering if there are specific high alpine workouts I could do? Maybe I just need to keep climbing mountains on the weekends?


If you keep this up and train this far out you will be in great shape. Climbing peaks on the weekends is the best in my opinion. Also, coming from CO - the altitude won't be as big of a deal. Running during the week and hiking peaks on the weekend is perfect. The best way to train to climb is by climbing! Bouldering gym won't help much, but its fun and builds climbing skills!!
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby MountainHiker » Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:15 pm

Climbing at altitude with elevation gain is big. By trudging uphill in a variety of conditions you’ll get used to dealing with your gear and your body in a variety of conditions. If the summit day on the bigger mountain drains you more than you expect, being able to do everything right without having to think too hard could make a huge difference. All the weekday training is great, but there’s no substitute for elevation gain at altitude.
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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby rkalsbeek » Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:45 pm

Thank you both (I Man and Moutainhiker)! Just what I needed to hear. I get up in the mountains on the weekends, but not nearly enough. I like the idea of elevation gain at altitude. I'll start incorporating that into my week. And as for the bouldering gym, I want to join a gym that has more sport climbing/longer routes, and I have friends to go with, but some days I just need to go by myself to work out and that's really only possible when I boulder.
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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby I Man » Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:06 pm

rkalsbeek wrote:Thank you both (I Man and Moutainhiker)! Just what I needed to hear. I get up in the mountains on the weekends, but not nearly enough. I like the idea of elevation gain at altitude. I'll start incorporating that into my week. And as for the bouldering gym, I want to join a gym that has more sport climbing/longer routes, and I have friends to go with, but some days I just need to go by myself to work out and that's really only possible when I boulder.


Movement and BRC are both excellent climbing gyms in Boulder. I bet you could find a steady partner on this website.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

"I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.

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Re: Mexican Volcanoes Logistics Help

Postby herdbull » Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:52 pm

In a nutshell keep doing what your doing and get in the darn mtns as much as you can. You'll love this trip, it was the greatest experience in my life even though the whole thing only lasted 5 days and that included (2) 17 hour travel days. It's also a great climb to test the body and see how it handles the elevation. If you've ever had problems or not felt so good on a 14er take 2 days there at the hut to acclimate. 18,500' is no joke and you could have issues.

For me my trip had one purpose and one purpose only. To see if I was one of the lucky ones that can climb high and gain some serious elevation in a one day push. I passed and I also feel this is a good climb to get under your belt before heading to S.A. That is what it was for me.

Mountainhiker nailed it though. There is no sub for elevation gain at altitude. Physically I felt great. Even at 18K I felt like I could have done jumping jacks on the side of that thing in full gear. But at 18,250' the elevation hit me hard, real hard. I wasn't really prepared for the mental challenge and for what I had to push through to make the last 200'. I was mentally exhausted by the summit but physically felt better an expected. Find a way to control the body with the mind and not the other way around and you'll do fine. The human body is capable of so much if we don't let it control the mind but let the mind control the body.

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