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Sore fingers from climbing

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Sore fingers from climbing

Postby pvnisher » Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:28 pm

Ok, I made a bonehead move. After a session of gym climbing my fingers hurt a little bit, not too bad.
The next day I was in the garage and jumped up on the hangboard and busted out a bunch of 3-finger ledge pullups, without any warmup or anything.
Now the fingers on my left hand, ring finger in particular, hurt like hell. I iced it when I noticed what I had done, and took some Vitamin I for 2 days. It's been 4 days and they still ache.
Nothing is broken, everything moves fine, it just hurts.

So how long will it take to heal?? ](*,)

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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby Mindy » Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:34 pm

Was there a ring on that ring finger?

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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby DaveSwink » Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:38 pm

pvnisher wrote:Ok, I made a bonehead move. So how long will it take to heal?? ](*,)


The fingers can take from a few weeks to many months. Search mountainproject.com for "pulley" and read the many posts in the Injuries and Accidents forum for information and advice. I self-inflicted a minor A2 pulley injury a couple of years ago and it took about a month of no climbing to heal, but I may not be strong enough to really hurt myself well.

The bonehead part can take a lifetime to heal. :-D

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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby SarahT » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:09 pm

Back when I first started gym climbing I pushed myself too hard, overdid it, and injured several of my pulleys on both hands (overuse type injury like you describe, nothing catastrophic). It hurt when I put any pressure on the inside of the bottom 3rd of my fingers. It hurt to squeeze a door handle. For a while it even hurt to carry grocery bags! I stopped climbing completely and they took many months to heal, probably 3-4 minimum.

When I got back into gym climbing I was very scared of it happening again. Now I listen to my fingers. If they start getting sore I take a week off. Usually any pain now resolves after 2 weeks or so and I can usually climb a bit below my max during that time. The one thing that has helped most I think is that I stop climbing when it starts becoming somewhat difficult to hang on to small holds. Before I was in the habit of climbing until I couldn't climb any more and that is when I think you really risk a lot of injury for little gain. Over the last couple of years my tendons have definitely grown stronger... as evidenced by the fact that I have not gained weight yet none of my rings fit anymore. I've read it can take years to develop tendon strength. How long have you been at it?

Sucks to deal with this, I can sympathize. Sitting out and losing that hard earned strength by the day is frustrating.
Die Zeit ist unendlich lang und ein jeder Tag ein Gefäß, in das sich sehr viel eingießen lässt, wenn man es wirklich ausfüllen will.... Goethe
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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby Dave B » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:19 pm

This has to be one of my biggest fears. I'm not much for pushing grades, but I'm larger framed and over-hanging or crimpy routes kill my fingers.

Like SarahT mentioned above I listen to my hands (and shoulders too) and if they're sore at all I take some time off. I haven't injured my fingers, but my buddy is going on 7 months of no climbing following an A5 pulley injury that PT/rest/cortisone has not been able to remedy. In other words these injuries can be debilitating for a long time.

I would say let your fingers rest until they're pain free. And then even after that take it easy and tape your fingers (middle and ring) before you start getting back on hard routes or hangboard.

Bummer, I guess at least it's winter so it's not 100% rock climbing season.
"There is no cheating in climbing, only lying." - Semi-Rad

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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby pstew85 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:22 pm

pvnisher wrote:my fingers hurt(*,)

welp, now your back's gonna hurt cause you just pulled landscape duty.

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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby pvnisher » Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:00 pm

Lots of good websites out there, I think I have between a Grade I and Grade II. I'll call it a Grade 1.5. (Would that be I.V.? But isn't that 4? But I digress).

Back when I first got the old hangboard I hurt myself a bit, took 2 weeks off and it cleared up. I thought I had learned my lesson (take it easy, warm up, no crimping, etc), but it just takes a little laziness and trying to impress a girl to get injured.
How many of my injuries have been caused by showing off? Hmm... #-o

pstew85 wrote:
pvnisher wrote:my fingers hurt(*,)

welp, now your back's gonna hurt cause you just pulled landscape duty.


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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby MonGoose » Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:49 pm

Mindy wrote:Was there a ring on that ring finger?


Image

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Re: Sore fingers from climbing

Postby TomPierce » Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:49 pm

All good advice above, and I'd urge you to look over the stuff on treating sports injuries (e.g. R.I.C.E., Ibuprofen, etc.) For a lingering/significant injury, of course no substitute for a medical/physical therapy exam. Having had similar injuries over the years (and one nagging one now, left elbow that affects my pinching ability...) I've learned there's a lot to be gained from 1) a solid warmup, one that raises the body's temp vs. just starting on an easy route, and 2) some light stretching. When I go to the gym now I jog a 1 mile loop, do some forearm/finger stretches for a few minutes, do an easy juggy route, then start training. FWIW, my current elbow injury was caused by overzealous decline pushups with a weighted pack. Part of my workout, but I pushed it too fast after a hiatus. One might call it...boneheaded! :lol:

Good luck in your recovery. As Sarah said, these injuries take quite some time to fully heal.
-Tom

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