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Wetterhorn/Uncompahgre - Last weekend of winter?

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing? For large group events, check out the Group Climb Event Calendar.
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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby Slim Pickins » 11 Nov 2012, 23:43

This sounds like a great trip! I'm definitely in:)

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby ACERyGuy007 » 12 Nov 2012, 00:17

Sounds awesome!

Count me in as well.

-Ryan

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby MountainMedic » 12 Nov 2012, 00:29

Have healed leg, will climb. Time to hit the Therabands.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby DaveSwink » 12 Nov 2012, 00:57

MountainMedic wrote:Have healed leg, will climb. Time to hit the Therabands.


Good to hear. Your tendons and range of motion will take longer than the bone or muscle. Do the PT, it hurts but you will be climbing sooner.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby wildlobo71 » 12 Nov 2012, 09:06

MountainMedic wrote:Have healed leg, will climb. Time to hit the Therabands.


Thanks for being full-time trail breaker Tyler.
Bill W.
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Constantly seeking the next altitude adjustment.
"In a storm, dude, you don't wanna go up in the mountains, are you crazy? That's just putting you closer to the storm; you wanna go low... low as you can be." - Charlie Kelly

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby I Man » 12 Nov 2012, 09:49

The Wetterhorn is doable in winter. The distance the road can add is a major factor, as is gaining the saddle from the basin above Matterhorn Creek. Once on the ridge, the slopes are steep and loose and occasional scrambling might be required to gain the area between the Prow and the summit (I felt this was the crux). This area holds a lot of snow and one must swim towards the notch. It would seem that the ramp is completely snow free most years (was in 2009 and 2012) and the crux can go either way. In a low snow year/good temperature day there might only be snow with some ice and micospikes were enough (no rope). Other parties have rappelled this section, but I haven't heard of too many protecting the climb.

This is a wonderful place to visit in winter.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

"I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.

Never had a home like this and the prophets said be careful what you wish.
Never had to think twice always knew my home was in paradise.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby zoriloco » 12 Nov 2012, 10:03

I have it in my Calendar! I really enjoy these get togethers.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby d_baker » 12 Nov 2012, 18:49

I Man wrote:The Wetterhorn is doable in winter. The distance the road can add is a major factor, as is gaining the saddle from the basin above Matterhorn Creek. Once on the ridge, the slopes are steep and loose and occasional scrambling might be required to gain the area between the Prow and the summit (I felt this was the crux). This area holds a lot of snow and one must swim towards the notch. It would seem that the ramp is completely snow free most years (was in 2009 and 2012) and the crux can go either way. In a low snow year/good temperature day there might only be snow with some ice and micospikes were enough (no rope). Other parties have rappelled this section, but I haven't heard of too many protecting the climb.

This is a wonderful place to visit in winter.

But Mr. Man, it is worth mentioning to anyone considering this trip that Wetterhorn is and can be more serious in winter, or winter like conditions. In your own report, you mention how it was "intimidating" and "intense" as well as "this route is no joke."
I don't think the mountain and the route should be downplayed or thought of as simply "doable." Yeah, it's doable....but not everyone is a badass and risk tolerance will vary.

From my poor memory, I recall past winter gatherings have been organized with easier winter peaks in mind for all skill levels to participate. (Easier winter peaks without much if any scrambling or exposure involved.)
This year is obviously different, but I'm sure the organizers will give full disclosure of the increased risk with Wetterhorn to those interested in an attempt.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby Fletch » 12 Nov 2012, 19:00

Are we now saying The Wetterhorn has a crux? It's a walk up people! Slightly slippery and colder in winter! Be advised.

I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby dmccool » 12 Nov 2012, 19:29

Fletch wrote:I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby Fletch » 12 Nov 2012, 19:35

What I meant to say was that if you've never had crampons or snowshoes on before or you've never hiked a 14er, this isn't the trip for you. Avy 1 and being in good shape would help you out tremendously, but I don't think it's mandatory. What is most important is good judgement. Don't go on this trip with the typical 14er herd mentality that is generally governed by "if so and so is going ahead, it must be safe or I can do it." Everyone must have their own backup plan, make their own decisions, and live with their consequences.

And please don't over-dramatize this stuff. Call it like it is. A big road hike, a pleasant approach through a gorgeous valley, and some easy solid scrambling to the top. This part could be further complicated with the presence of ice, but nothing too harry if you meet the above conditions. if its too much, then turn around --- you will still enjoy your trip. This isn't some Eiger expedition from the 30's...

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby lman86 » 12 Nov 2012, 19:42

Fletch wrote:This isn't some Eiger expedition from the 30's...


+1

The exit cracks are completely snow free most years (or they were in 1936 and 1939).
"I will be successfully leading 6000M peaks on highly technical climbs in two years, and you all will be dreaming of some lowly grid or other stupid accomplishment, wishing you were me. This will be my legend." - Actual quote, from myself.

"Getting down is optional. Getting to the top is mandatory." - Me

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