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Wetterhorn/Uncompahgre - Last weekend of winter?

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby RyGuy » Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:17 pm

Sounds awesome!

Count me in as well.

-Ryan
"Climbing mountains is the only thing I know that combines the best of the physical, spiritual, and emotional world all rolled into one." -Steve Gladbach

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby MountainMedic » Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:29 pm

Have healed leg, will climb. Time to hit the Therabands.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby DaveSwink » Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:57 pm

MountainMedic wrote:Have healed leg, will climb. Time to hit the Therabands.


Good to hear. Your tendons and range of motion will take longer than the bone or muscle. Do the PT, it hurts but you will be climbing sooner.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby wildlobo71 » Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:06 am

MountainMedic wrote:Have healed leg, will climb. Time to hit the Therabands.


Thanks for being full-time trail breaker Tyler.
Bill W.
Yes, I have my Scotch.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby I Man » Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:49 am

The Wetterhorn is doable in winter. The distance the road can add is a major factor, as is gaining the saddle from the basin above Matterhorn Creek. Once on the ridge, the slopes are steep and loose and occasional scrambling might be required to gain the area between the Prow and the summit (I felt this was the crux). This area holds a lot of snow and one must swim towards the notch. It would seem that the ramp is completely snow free most years (was in 2009 and 2012) and the crux can go either way. In a low snow year/good temperature day there might only be snow with some ice and micospikes were enough (no rope). Other parties have rappelled this section, but I haven't heard of too many protecting the climb.

This is a wonderful place to visit in winter.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

"I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby zoriloco » Mon Nov 12, 2012 9:03 am

I have it in my Calendar! I really enjoy these get togethers.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby d_baker » Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:49 pm

I Man wrote:The Wetterhorn is doable in winter. The distance the road can add is a major factor, as is gaining the saddle from the basin above Matterhorn Creek. Once on the ridge, the slopes are steep and loose and occasional scrambling might be required to gain the area between the Prow and the summit (I felt this was the crux). This area holds a lot of snow and one must swim towards the notch. It would seem that the ramp is completely snow free most years (was in 2009 and 2012) and the crux can go either way. In a low snow year/good temperature day there might only be snow with some ice and micospikes were enough (no rope). Other parties have rappelled this section, but I haven't heard of too many protecting the climb.

This is a wonderful place to visit in winter.

But Mr. Man, it is worth mentioning to anyone considering this trip that Wetterhorn is and can be more serious in winter, or winter like conditions. In your own report, you mention how it was "intimidating" and "intense" as well as "this route is no joke."
I don't think the mountain and the route should be downplayed or thought of as simply "doable." Yeah, it's doable....but not everyone is a badass and risk tolerance will vary.

From my poor memory, I recall past winter gatherings have been organized with easier winter peaks in mind for all skill levels to participate. (Easier winter peaks without much if any scrambling or exposure involved.)
This year is obviously different, but I'm sure the organizers will give full disclosure of the increased risk with Wetterhorn to those interested in an attempt.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby dmccool » Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:29 pm

Fletch wrote:I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!

James.jpg
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Save a place for me up in the high country.
There's still space to breathe.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby lman86 » Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:42 pm

Fletch wrote:This isn't some Eiger expedition from the 30's...


+1

The exit cracks are completely snow free most years (or they were in 1936 and 1939).
"I will be successfully leading 6000M peaks on highly technical climbs in two years, and you all will be dreaming of some lowly grid or other stupid accomplishment, wishing you were me. This will be my legend." - Actual quote, from myself.

"Getting down is optional. Getting to the top is mandatory." - Me

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby MountainMedic » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:58 am

James, I wouldn't be so sure. Anderl Heckmair will be in Golden next week to discuss the route.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby d_baker » Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:05 am

MountainMedic wrote:James, I wouldn't be so sure. Anderl Heckmair will be in Golden next week to discuss the route.

I wouldn't be so sure either, since he's dead.

Fletch, I stand down and apologize for being a safety nazi in regards to my remarks and words of caution about Wetterhorn. I should refrain from such comments in the future.

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Re: Save the Date - Winter Gathering - Wetterhorn/Uncompahgr

Postby zoriloco » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:29 am

Man seems we'll be having tons of fun!

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