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Expedition Parkas

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Expedition Parkas

Postby USAKeller » Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:56 am

The time has come to buy one. Just curious to get others' opinions on expedition jackets - durability, weight, warmth, pros/cons, etc. I've looked mostly at TNF Himalayan Parka, and a little bit at the First Ascent Peak XV Down Parka and two Rab parkas. I don't know too much about the Marmot 8000m Parka, Feathered Friends, or any others. If any ladies have experience with expedition jackets, please chime in. Thanks!
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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby I Man » Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:57 am

Find an old MH Sub Zero jacket and bask in its glory!
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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby EatinHardtack » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:24 am

I have the FA Peak XV parka and used it on Rainier. I've had it for about 3 years now and it's warm as hell (no pun intended). I have been impressed with the durability of the fabric and my jacket has performed excellent with any issues concerning feather loss.
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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby Scott P » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:31 am

Just a thought, but I have about six expedition jackets sitting in my basement that have never been used or I think one of them has been used once.

My family likes (or liked) to do outdoor stuff, but they didn't have too much gear because I came from a low income family. I bought all this outdoor gear so they could go with me, but only my brother took me up on it when we climbed Castle Peak (UT) one November. The rest of my brothers and sister ended up getting married and don't do stuff any more so the gear never got used.

Anyway, I have all these expedition down jackets that were bought back in 1997 that haven't been used. If anyone wants one sometime, let me know.
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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby Taillon75 » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:39 am

I used a TNF Optimus in Nepal this spring. Warm and toasty. I can always
Throw a smaller down pullover underneath for subzero stuff. A little cheaper than the Himalayan Down. Your budget and level of protection will ultimately dictate. Always something good on Sierra Trading Post or Backcountry Outlet.

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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby jbchalk » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:40 am

I've used my MHW Absolute Zero parka on the big stuff and I've been plenty happy with it. Just had to retire my 12 year old MHW Sub Zero SL jacket due to extreme wear & tear (I really had a hard time letting go), but got the new MHW Nilas jacket to replace it for lower altitude mtns and CO winters and absolutely love it. Its so warm and allows for great flexibilty as its not bulky at all!

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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby Taillon75 » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:55 am

Chalk.... Are those MHW Zeros tough? Any Rips or Tears?
Got some MHW down pants. Nervous about wearing them
As an outer layer on a climb....

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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby I Man » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:59 am

jbchalk wrote:I've used my MHW Absolute Zero parka on the big stuff and I've been plenty happy with it. Just had to retire my 12 year old MHW Sub Zero SL jacket due to extreme wear & tear (I really had a hard time letting go), but got the new MHW Nilas jacket to replace it for lower altitude mtns and CO winters and absolutely love it. Its so warm and allows for great flexibilty as its not bulky at all!


oh good - its only $800.

It seems there is only a parka version and not a jacket version?? I like the MH Sub Zero because I could still work a harness and ropes on technical stuff. I know some have gotten away with that on Denali.
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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby jbchalk » Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:08 am

Taillon75 wrote:Chalk.... Are those MHW Zeros tough? Any Rips or Tears?
Got some MHW down pants. Nervous about wearing them
As an outer layer on a climb....


Well, it definitely had some tears that I had sew back together from rocks, crampons, etc. This would have happened to any jacket really. It finally caved when I washed it and teh down just went to hell. Like clumped up crap that would never fluff out again. If it had 9 lives, it had just spent em all. I sent it back to MHW and they were nice enough to give me a new Nilas for a great deal. The MHW Chugach (Compressor) pant are extremely tuff IMO. I've worn these all over the place for years and years. Love em.

Matt, the Nilas is not like a true parka - its still fairly short and good enough for harness/belay work, which I like as well. Oh yeah, its $500 retail, not $800.

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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby I Man » Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:10 am

jbchalk wrote:
Taillon75 wrote:Chalk.... Are those MHW Zeros tough? Any Rips or Tears?
Got some MHW down pants. Nervous about wearing them
As an outer layer on a climb....


Well, it definitely had some tears that I had sew back together from rocks, crampons, etc. This would have happened to any jacket really. It finally caved when I washed it and teh down just went to hell. Like clumped up crap that would never fluff out again. If it had 9 lives, it had just spent em all. I sent it back to MHW and they were nice enough to give me a new Nilas for a great deal. The MHW Chugach (Compressor) pant are extremely tuff IMO. I've worn these all over the place for years and years. Love em.

Matt, the Nilas is not like a true parka - its still fairly short and good enough for harness/belay work, which I like as well. Oh yeah, its $500 retail, not $800.


Meh - I've got time to decide before I really go after the big boys. I think I'm going to try and find the old Sub Zero for this winter here and for 6000m peaks. We will be in touch for sure. See you tomorrow man!
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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby jbchalk » Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:14 am

Matt, dont me wrong man...I LOVE the sub zero. I wish I still had it, but MHW kept it saying it was unrecoverable :) So, the somewhat comparable jacket was the Nilas, so I went with that.

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Re: Expedition Parkas

Postby globreal » Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:16 am

Like Zack, I have the FA Peak XV. Love it... super warm. I put it on when I reach a summit and it's like instantly getting a warm hug from a big German bar maiden! Plus, there is NO added/extra parts that add extra weigh. It was a jacket made for Everest and so it's lightweight.

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