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Democrat Northern Routes

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Democrat Northern Routes

Postby Lemmiwinks » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:25 pm

On Sunday I attempted to do Decalibron from Lincoln Amphitheatre but was only able to do Lincoln because of the weather. I'd like to do the other three by a different route and Kite Lake doesn't appeal to me. If anyone has done one of the three northern routes on Democrat (Routes 10, 11, and 12 in Roach's book), are these routes any good and which would you recommend?


On another note, Lincoln Amphitheatre sucks! If anyone is considering doing this route, don't do it. I would never recommend someone endure that hellaciously steep route full of loose scree and loose talus.
Last edited by Lemmiwinks on Tue Oct 02, 2012 3:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby leggaj5 » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:50 pm

I don't have the book in front of me, but I'm assuming one of those routes is the North Ridge. If it is, it is a fun route. Not too long of an approach and some fun Class 3 scrambling.

Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby bergsteigen » Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:53 pm

Lemmiwinks wrote:On another note, Lincoln Amphitheatre sucks! If anyone is considering doing this route, don't do it. I would never recommend someone endure that hellaciously steep route full of loose scree and loose talus.


That's a fun snow/ski route. Haven't seen it in summer.
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Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby krs1 » Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:21 am

Linconln Amphitheatre is a great way to do Lincoln in the spring time, you can get in an ice climb, snow climb, and bag a 14er. Sounds like you can get a ski descent as well. I'll have to carry the skis next time.

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Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby randybear4 » Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:19 pm

One route you could try is the south face going up from lake emma.I did this Tueday morning the 2nd at around 1:oo a.m. There were clear skies with a bright full moon. Perfect conditions for a night climb. I picked a line up a gully near the center of the lake and went for it. It was a steep scramble up loose scree and boulders to the eastern summit ridge, then a walk up from there. I then completed the Lincoln summit and back down the standard trail to kite lake at around sunrise.

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Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby rijaca » Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:31 pm

randybear4 wrote:One route you could try is the south face going up from lake emma....a steep scramble up loose scree and boulders...


That sounds like fun. :roll:
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Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby BillMiddlebrook » Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:33 pm

Uh, no. I wouldn't advise anyone to climb Democrat's south gullies without solid snow coverage.
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Re: Democrat Northern Routes

Postby SteveBonowski » Fri Oct 05, 2012 4:01 pm

Kite Lake to the Cameron/Democrat saddle remains the only legally open route on Democrat.

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