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2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby SilverLynx » Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:54 pm

FCSquid wrote:
SilverLynx wrote:I'm no longer considering touching this peak any time soon. On that note, I think it would be of value to start a thread about which seasons are best for which 14ers and why, and which 14ers should be avoided when there is or isn't snow on them.

To everyone that goes, have fun and please be safe! Happy First Day of Fall (on Saturday)!


I don't think this is really about conditions - they look to be ideal right now, but just a high number of people on a notoriously loose mountain. Most who've expressed interest don't seem the type to not know quite what they're getting in to.

Agree completely. Strength is definitely not in numbers where there is loose rock, and this mountain's loose rocks are apparently quite large. One good thing however - there has not been any rain for several days and there shouldn't be rain on Saturday if the forecast is accurate. Looks like Saturday will be an optimal hiking day.
"I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear."
~Nelson Mandela

"Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition."
~Steve Jobs

Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby coclimbguy79 » Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:12 pm

I'd like to climb Pyramid.

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby Lemmiwinks » Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:18 pm

The high number of people on Snowmass Saturday is exactly why I've shifted my focus toward Treasure/Treasury.
“If you're bumming out, you're not gonna get to the top, so as long as we're up here we might as well make a point of grooving." -Scott Fischer

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby Waggs » Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:26 pm

I'm now in the: "I don't think I can make it" category.


Stupid work. :cussing: :cussing: :cussing:

Waggs
Gloves are optional. Mittens mandatory - S. Gladbach

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby Sartorius78 » Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:23 pm

Anyone hiking Snowmass on Sunday, can be down mid Saturday if anyones interested, unfortunatly do not have 4 wheel drive vehicle!

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby cbrobin » Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:25 pm

Waggs, sorry to hear you won't make it. I have some time next weekend. KC possibly.
More Colorado than the Natives.

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby Scott P » Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:25 pm

I'm going to head to SE Utah. Snowmass just sounds too crowded. I hope I can meet you all some day and hope you all have fun. :-D
I'm slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby MountainMedic » Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:30 pm

FCSquid wrote:
SilverLynx wrote:I'm no longer considering touching this peak any time soon. On that note, I think it would be of value to start a thread about which seasons are best for which 14ers and why, and which 14ers should be avoided when there is or isn't snow on them.

To everyone that goes, have fun and please be safe! Happy First Day of Fall (on Saturday)!


I don't think this is really about conditions - they look to be ideal right now, but just a high number of people on a notoriously loose mountain. Most who've expressed interest don't seem the type to not know quite what they're getting in to. Personally, the numbers for S-Ridge don't really worry me since I don't think there are too many places where you're veritically below other climbers (as compared to say, the gullies in North Maroon or the Hourglass ...). So I think risk can be mitigated if due caution is taken.

The gullies on the west face, though do concern me. Enough so, that I may elect to go up and down the S-Ridge rather than have to spend a lot of time directly below other climbers.


You are completely right about not being vertically below other climbers. My concern is that there are a number of very large rocks that will teeter when you stand on them. Many of these are close to unavoidable, and if they fell, would trigger an enormous rock slide to either side of the ridge. If the ridge's west side near the standard route were to collapse, things could get really bad really quick. It sounds like people know what they're doing, and that's great. Just remember - a lot of us who were 110% aware of what we were doing had a very rough season.

I hear you on the "ideal conditions," but IMO they're not actually ideal. Sure, it's a great time of year, but the lack of snow and ice last winter means that much of the loose crap supporting the talus didn't get washed away with the spring melt, and thus the base of many of the scree fields doesn't support climbing as well as it normally does. Rob was explaining this to us on Snowmass a couple hours before the accident, and Bill (wildlobo71) and I talked about today as well. I'm no geologist, but it seems reasonable to assume this has played at least some role in the excessive number of climbing accidents in the Elks this year.

I hate being preachy. It makes me feel like a douche. That said, I'd rather feel like a douche than see somebody else get hurt up there.

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby Beagle » Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:59 am

I hate being preachy. It makes me feel like a douche. That said, I'd rather feel like a douche than see somebody else get hurt up there.


Nothing dooshie or preachy here. I'd rather have people giving me honest information here and letting me decide what to use and what to set aside. Nothing wrong with caution Tyler. I appreciate your candid remarks. With absolutely no authority vested in me, I hereby absolve you of any do-chee-ness.
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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby FCSquid » Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:34 am

Thanks for the info, Medic - I hadn't even considered how a dry season could affect the looseness of the talus. We'll just have to give each rock a little more caution than usual.
"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."
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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby flintster » Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:45 am

FCSquid wrote:
SilverLynx wrote:I'm no longer considering touching this peak any time soon. On that note, I think it would be of value to start a thread about which seasons are best for which 14ers and why, and which 14ers should be avoided when there is or isn't snow on them.


I don't think this is really about conditions - they look to be ideal right now, but just a high number of people on a notoriously loose mountain. Most who've expressed interest don't seem the type to not know quite what they're getting in to. Personally, the numbers for S-Ridge don't really worry me since I don't think there are too many places where you're veritically below other climbers (as compared to say, the gullies in North Maroon or the Hourglass ...). So I think risk can be mitigated if due caution is taken.

The gullies on the west face, though do concern me. Enough so, that I may elect to go up and down the S-Ridge rather than have to spend a lot of time directly below other climbers.


Yes, if someone got out of my post that it is going to be a large party of people going up the gullies all together, my post was completely misinterpretted. I was just trying to get a wag at the total # of people potentially on the route, plan our 3 person group's departure time around that, and be prepared to wait X minutes to be the only ones going up/down gullies or any other tight spots at our time. That being said, there are another umpteen reasons to take caution on this route regardless of people.

also - if you haven't seen this TR, suggest taking a look, it is excellent: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=3455&parmpeak=Snowmass+Mountain&start=50&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include

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Re: 2012 Fall Gathering - Snowmass

Postby Rock-a-Fella » Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:25 am

I am with Tyler in feeling bad about preaching but at the risk of sounding like it, please understand that the West slopes and the S-Ridge are serious routes. I think many would join me in saying there are no "Gimmies" in the Elks; even for accomplished mountaineers.

This one is an "Mind Clear, Eyes On and Ears Open" route!! That said, we followed the route in photo#15 for the most part with the following adjustments and recommendations: Climb the wall to the right of the green patch as this area was wet muddy and dangerous when I was there. When we shifted into the lower gully in pic #15 stay off of the right side scree it is steep and loose. Once we crossed to the gully left we worked the talus spine that divides the two for the most part. NOTE: when the talus got steep we got off, went around and got back in. You will find many steep walls of rock "Perched". We found the last 300' to be the toughest. Huge boulders that will move on you if not tested before committing to your move.
Once you reach the ridge, the summit is "Hands on" to your right with "exposure". (no mistakes here)
Many will note a well defined route up the right gully that continues up the face to the right of the summit. We looked at it going in both directions and avoided it. (we saw a trio on that route and I am not sure I have heard more F-Bombs dropped by climbers)

For those going out on either route please Call your Rockfall, Be safe and Have Fun. and NO DOGS!!!

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