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Wilson snow conditions?

Colorado 14er peak questions and conditions should be posted here. 14er Trip Reports
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Wilson snow conditions?

Postby denvermikey » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:17 am

Was planning on climbing Wilson Peak Saturday. The forecast for Saturday couldn't be any better. Clear, sunny 0% chance of precip. My worry is how much snow did the area get? Looking at the route (from Silver Pick) in general, it looks like a majority of it has good sun exposure and has a chance of some decent melting in the next 2 days. Except for the final pitch to the top, however. Looks like that is mostly NNW facing? May not see much sun nor experience much melting. Assuming temps probably won't go much above freezing at 13k+ either.
I have climbed El Diente (from Kilpacker) and would not be comfortable doing that one with fresh snow.
How comparable is Wilson Peak to ED?
Any reasonable expectation of the snow melting by Sat?

Any beta or opinions appreciated, thanks!

-Mike
"Every man dies, not every man really lives" - William Wallace
"Because it's there" - George Mallory
"In the end it's not the years in your life that count, it's the life in your years" - Abraham Lincoln
"You only live once but if you do it right, once is enough" - Mae West
"Climb mountains not so the world can see you, but so you can see the world." - Unknown

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby nyker » Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:37 am

For Wilson Peak, I'd only worry about snow on the portion of the high route between the false summit and summit proper. That is where any exposure and main fall risk is. You might need some sort of ice/creeper traction. Crampons won't be much help in early season loose snow, but ice could be an issue there.

The rest of the route can be doable with snow, though could mean some route finding issues after the Gladstone-Wilson Peak saddle
if snow is more than 6" and drifting. There are some steep spots there where poles at least would help with fresh unconsolidated snow, especially right off that saddle if you descend down.

Compared with El Diente (both from Kilpacker), ED has more tricky rock for a more sustained period than does Wilson Peak.

See both my trip reports from last week on each peak that I just posted to get an idea of terrain.

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby Eaglevu » Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:23 pm

Mike -
I going to be there next week. I would be interested in knowing how things went.
-Eaglevu
(Member of the "EVEREST IS TOO D_MN HIGH!" party.)

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby Neil » Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:10 pm

Below is a link to a webcam at the Dunton Hot Springs, which is south of Telluride. The camera looks north right at at El Diente and the Mount Wilson massif. The camera is up-to-date and shows absolutely no snow on El Diente, which should be indicative of Wilson Peak conditions.

http://www.duntonhotsprings.com/webcam.html

The link below is to a webcam looking south towards the Sneffels Range from Log Hill above Ridgway. It also evidences that very little snow fell -- and none is lingering -- in the western San Juans.

http://ridgwaycam.com/

Hope this helps.
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Throwing the bone for the dog I see two passing lights
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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby gonzalj » Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:11 pm

I'm in Telluride right now and can tell you that the wilson's didn't get any snow. Complete summer time conditions.

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby denvermikey » Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:19 pm

That's good to hear, but surprising I guess. That area must have really dodged the storm. Showed 70% chance of measurable snow over the last 36 hours or so.
:-D
"Every man dies, not every man really lives" - William Wallace
"Because it's there" - George Mallory
"In the end it's not the years in your life that count, it's the life in your years" - Abraham Lincoln
"You only live once but if you do it right, once is enough" - Mae West
"Climb mountains not so the world can see you, but so you can see the world." - Unknown

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby lurker » Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:31 pm

Denvermikey,

Lurkers rarely advertise their intentions, but maybe we'll run into each other up there.
Rock of Ages TH?

lurker
The Mountains are Calling, and I must Go.
--John Muir

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby [climber] » Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:51 am

Lurker. Actually, Mikey and I are planning on climbing it on the 22nd, not this weekend. Assuming the weather holds out, I think we'll be good to go from Rock of Ages.

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby ed20320 » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:35 am

a buddy and i just came back from doing all three and as of yesterday (saturday 15 sept), there was no snow anywhere in Kilpacker and navaho basins or on the ROA trail. we had absolutely perfect conditions and a great climb. maybe by next weekend, all of the aspen trees will be turned and if so, you will have amazing views.

+1 for the ROA's trail.

Ed
In the immortal words of Socrates, “I drank WHAT?”

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby dpage » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:12 pm

Summer conditions on Wilson Peak today.

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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby Rcizzle » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:29 pm

Sticking snow and "winter" like conditions don't really occur until mid October. Last year snow began sticking on north faces of the San Juans around the first of October, but quickly melted in few days afterward only to return to winter again by the 9th. The year before snow didnt begin to stick in the San Juans until October 17th.
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Re: Wilson snow conditions?

Postby Dan_Suitor » Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:44 pm

I climbed Wilson Peak today with Jorge. No snow at all. Here is a pic from the top and of the climb to the peak after the false summit:
WP_000508-2.jpg
WP_000508-2.jpg (214.02 KiB) Viewed 143 times

WP_000499-2.jpg
WP_000499-2.jpg (275.26 KiB) Viewed 143 times

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