Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

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boudreaux
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Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by boudreaux »

I was talking to the rangers at Mt Shasta today and they told me the rockfall on the Avy Gulch route is considerable and very dangerous. They suggested I do the Clear Creek route on the east side of the mountain. I was just wondering if the rangers are exaggerating somewhat, I mean how bad could it really be, right? Has anyone been up there in Sept and seen the rockfall. Just need a little info to make some decisions with. Thanks
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by thebeave7 »

The few times I've been to Shasta its been mostly snow covered, so take the advice with a grain of salt. But when it melts out Avy Gulch is a giant boulder field all the way through the Red Banks. That coupled with the large amounts of traffic make for some nasty rock fall potential. If you can do one of the other routes then that would be better. If you want more precise conditions head over to the California Forum on Summitpost.org as there are a few members there from the Shasta area that might be able to chime in.

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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by ed20320 »

I've been there twice and don't see why it would be a problem. the trail get a little narrow above the heart, but i didn't experience any rock fall. if you were planning on doing the ridge on either side of the gulch, i could see that.

I guess i should also point out that i climbed the mountain in May (both times)

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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by Scott P »

I've been there late season (mid-August) and understand that the south side is pretty tedious and that it's mostly a scree slog late season.

We climbed the north side which is in condition late season. I'd consider climbing the north side of the mountain.

Is there any reason why you are set on the Avalanche Gulch route? If not, there are many other routes available.
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by peter303 »

I did the gulch snow-free in August some years ago.
Its very annoying scree for at least a mile - like Bross or Columbia.
There is a little class 3 part when you go through the overhang above the gulch. Then its a walk up after that.
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by kaiman »

I climbed Mount Shasta from the North via Hotlam-Bolam Ridge/Glaciers during the first week of August and was also told by a Park Ranger I called to get info on several routes that the rock fall on Avalanche Gulch was pretty bad below the Red Banks. I wondered the same thing, until I saw it for myself. I don't have a picture but as we were driving south of Weed towards Shasta City you can see the route and I could see the stains in the snow from rock fall tumbling down into Avalanche Gulch so I don't think it's an exaggeration.

It doesn't surprise me that there is so much rockfall there. All of the Cascades I've climbed have some of the loosest rock I've ever seen. It almost makes the San Juan's and Elk Range look solid! :wink:

If the Clear Creek route is not to your liking you could try to find some reports on the Hotlam-Bolam route, although I suspect it is pretty icy by now. It was beginning to ice up a bit when I was there especially the headwall above the Hotlam Glacier just below the summit ridge and was pretty badly sun-cupped in spots. Still manageable though. If I have time today I will post a couple pics.

Like others have said check out SummitPost for info on CA or visit the Cascade Climbers site and someone should be able to give you some recent beta.

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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by boudreaux »

Thanks guys for all the info, I will post something on Cascade to see what they think, but I will most probably do Shasta from Clear Creek TH. Are the routes on the northside good for a solo attempt and have lots of crevasses to contend with? Although I have done some work with hard snow, I have never been on ice and not really sure if I want to do something like that solo.

Not really, but it was the first one I looked at. With all the info I have been getting from here and other sites, I have concluded it is better to climb this in the spring, early summer, but Sept is the only month I can do it, so it should be one hell of a day next week!
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by kaiman »

boudreaux wrote:Thanks guys for all the info, I will post something on Cascade to see what they think, but I will most probably do Shasta from Clear Creek TH. Are the routes on the northside good for a solo attempt and have lots of crevasses to contend with? Although I have done some work with hard snow, I have never been on ice and not really sure if I want to do something like that solo.
Oh, I didn't realize you were doing this as a solo climb... In that case, probably the only route on the north side that you would want to consider doing solo is the Hotlam-Bolam Ridge route. Except for early in the spring, both the Hotlam and Bolam Glacier direct routes are crevassed and should only be attempted with a party that is proficient in crevasse rescue and is roped.

The Hotlam-Bolam route avoids most of the crevasse danger and can be done solo. The biggest danger is during the descent when people have been known to glissade into the bergschrund, however, when we were there, the cracks were very obvious and easy to stay away from. This is really a classic mixed snow and rock route with lots of snow climbing some easy Class 3 scrambling near the top.

Here are a couple pictures of the route to give you some idea:
IMG_5350-2.jpg
IMG_5350-2.jpg (278.86 KiB) Viewed 3090 times
IMG_5340-2.jpg
IMG_5340-2.jpg (318.19 KiB) Viewed 3090 times
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by kushrocks »

Bump, Anyone been up there lately?
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by pete26 »

Hey I was just up there and summited Avy Gulch May 18th. Great weather, lots of snow coverage, some rockfall coming off the Casaval Ridge. Did it in a day, skinned to 11k then crampons and ice axe to the top. Ski/boarded the entire route down, icy up top. Let me know if you need more info, I have pictures too.
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by ChicagoMike »

Was the trail crowded? Did you go solo? What time did you start in the AM and what time did you start riding? Any crevasses opening up?

I am planning on going up mid June.
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Re: Mt Shasta, Avy Gulch Trail conditions

Post by pete26 »

Trail wasn't very crowded but a good number of people out there, more people on the upper half since some camped at Lake Helen. It was also a weekday. Started at 0315, started riding down at 1130. No crevasses, the heart wasn't even close to melting out yet.
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