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Winter Jacket Decision

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Winter Jacket Decision

Postby RamanDestroyer » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:09 am

Hi Guys, does anyone have any experience with any of the following jackets? I need to find a good one that will work in fall, winter and spring.

I am sticking with Patagonia for now as i have heard great things about their gear...

Houdini:
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-houdini-jacket-windbreaker?p=24140-0-943

Traverse:
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-traverse-soft-shell-jacket?p=24996-0-015

Alpine Guide (Much more expensive):
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-alpine-guide-jacket?p=83940-0-065

Mixed-Guide (also expensive):
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-mixed-guide-hoody?p=84080-0-175

Thanks in advance,

Raman

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby lackerstef » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:15 am

http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Alpha-SV-Jacket#

If you can find a used one or one on sale - get it!

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby kansas » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:23 am

What are you wanting the jacket to do?

I wouldn't buy anything with a waterproof membrane or built in insulation for my main climbing jacket and IMO a helmet compatible hood is required for winter climbing.

Hate to burst your bubble, but nothing in the current Patagonia line would work for me during winter. Look for a softshell jacket with a hood, I prefer one with a windproof lining and pit zips. There are a lot of good brands out there with better pricing.
Last edited by kansas on Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby I Man » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:29 am

I use a soft shell and a very lightweight hardshell - something more like a rain jacket. I think mine is called the "Quark" by Mountain Hardwear. I paid less than $100 for it on sale.

My buddy climbed Ama Dablam in a Marmot Precip recently. I spent Six days on Rainier in my MH jakcet.

If I know I'm climbing into a storm, sometimes I might bring a Marmot Hardshell that is very old.

Personally, unless you're climbing the Nordwand, I don't think the really high end jackets are necessary...but that's just me.

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby RamanDestroyer » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:33 am

That Arcteryx Jacket looks awesome but I would definitely have to find me a used one as $600 is huge!

@Kansas: I'll need the jacket for hiking and climbing class 1-4s throughout Fall, Winter and Spring. I have a good Goretex Snowboarding Jacket I was planning on using but it's just really bulky and heavy.

So basically I'll need the jacket to be waterproof, wind resistant, light and helmet capable.

Do you have any suggestions (maybe around $200-$350 range)?

Also, this will be my first season of winter climbing and the only things I can really relate to it is snowboarding/snowshoeing experiences which I am sure are drastically different.

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby Dave B » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:34 am

My winter layering system is:

1: Patagonia Capilene 2
2: Patagonia R1 Hoody
3: Marmot power stretch vest
4: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hoody (Patagonia equivalent would be (simple) guide hoody)
5: Mont Bell wind shirt (similar to Houdini)
6: Mont Bell UL Down Jacket

I would highly recommend a layering system such as this instead of depending on one jacket to do it all. Here I've got a lot of warm and breathable layers with a lightweight soft shell an ultra light wind jacket and a light but puffy down jacket.

I hike very warm (hot actually) so the versatility is necessary in conditions that can change rapidly through the day and with elevation. If I know it's going to be a s**t storm kind of day, I'll sometimes take my Arc'teryx Alpha SL in place of the wind shirt, the patagonia equivalent of this piece would be their Super Cell pac-lite jacket.
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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby I Man » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:42 am

RamanDestroyer wrote:
I'll need the jacket for hiking and climbing class 1-4s throughout Fall, Winter and Spring.

Also, this will be my first season of winter climbing and the only things I can really relate to it is snowboarding/snowshoeing experiences which I am sure are drastically different.


Not that it's my business, but Class 3 & 4 in winter are no joke.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby Derek » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:47 am

Despite what that crazy Kansan above says ;) I have the hooded version of the Patagonia guide soft shell and love it. It's completely taken over my other jackets in use and versatility. With a good base layer, it is rare that I have to throw something else on. (Not that i dont toss a hard shell on in extreme conditions, but it is rare.) Worth the money I paid and more,...although I actually don't remember what I paid exactly.

Only problem I have is the stupid chest pocket...if you put something in it and don't zip it, it'll fall right put with a minimal lean over.

Another post above is very right in saying to have a good layering system. That'll be crucial no matter how great of a jacket you have. Just make sure you get a hood no matter which route you go.
Last edited by Derek on Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby SurfNTurf » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:48 am

I can't tell you how excited I am that this is a thread. Winter is coming...

I use the Outdoor Research Alibi most winter days, or if the forecast is favorable a very basic softshell.

Like kansas said, the two "must-have" ingredients I look for are softshell + helmet-compatible hood, with pit-zips being highly preferable.

If I was limiting myself to the Patagonia line I'd probably go with the Guide Hoody, or if I felt like splurging the Mixed Guide Hoody (in the red/orange color, obviously). Also, do yourself a favor and get a Nano Puff in blindingly bright yellow.
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"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby kansas » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:49 am

Dave B wrote:My winter layering system is:

1: Patagonia Capilene 2
2: Patagonia R1 Hoody
3: Marmot power stretch vest
4: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hoody (Patagonia equivalent would be (simple) guide hoody)
5: Mont Bell wind shirt (similar to Houdini)
6: Mont Bell UL Down Jacket

I would highly recommend a layering system such as this instead of depending on one jacket to do it all. Here I've got a lot of warm and breathable layers with a lightweight soft shell an ultra light wind jacket and a light but puffy down jacket.


Lock the thread, all the advice you need is posted above.

This is pretty much the exact system I use, works flawlessly in almost all conditions.
Dave is correct in saying that a layering system is what you need, not one jacket to do all things. Also, I rarely see the need to carry any sort of waterproof layer between September and May, unless the forecast is really bad. In which case, I normally find something else to do.

With a good layering system, either one of these reasonably priced jackets will do you right.
http://www.golite.com/Ms-Borrego-Windstopper-Softshell-Jacket-P46649.aspx
http://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=64&p_id=2306477

Oh, and buy a damn R1 Hoody!

Edit: I don't see where Patagonia is offering a Guide jacket with hood this season? Am I missing something? If its available, that would be a great choice, as Derek and Surf say.
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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby SurfNTurf » Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:00 am

kansas wrote:Edit: I don't see where Patagonia is offering a Guide jacket with hood this season? Am I missing something? If its available, that would be a great choice, as Derek and Surf say.


I had to search the site for "Guide Hoody" and it popped up on sale for $125. Must be left over from last year and for whatever reason they didn't bring it back.

I've had the chance to play with the First Ascent 18K Jacket a bit and it meets all the criteria, as well. The Colorado Mills Eddie Bauer outlet has a TON right now for half-off.
Many Miles to Go (Blog)

“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe

"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper

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Re: Winter Jacket Decision

Postby kansas » Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:06 am

SurfNTurf wrote:I've had the chance to play with the First Ascent 18K Jacket a bit and it meets all the criteria, as well. The Colorado Mills Eddie Bauer outlet has a TON right now for half-off.


Look, we all know FA gear is only good for shopping and going to the movies. I'm sure it would work great for watching a climbing movie during winter though.

for those of you with no sense for sarcasm, please imagine this in pink font
Last edited by kansas on Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
"In the end, of course, it changed almost nothing. But I came to appreciate that mountains make poor receptacles for dreams."
— Jon Krakauer

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