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Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

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Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby Climbdent » Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:58 am

I have a question for anyone who has gone from Turret/Pigeon over to Chicago Basin to climb Jupiter. Would you go over Noname-Ruby and Twin Thumbs Pass or is their a way to stay on the South of Eolus?

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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby highpilgrim » Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:29 am

I looked down the backside of Eolus into New York Basin and it looked easier than the way we came up from Chicago. A couple of others in our group agreed with the assessment. There was a cairn at the top of the route ascending from NY. I cannot speak to the approach from that side though...So I guess it depends on what your intended routes on Turret/Pigeon are...

Here's a previous thread discussing the New York Basin approach: viewtopic.php?t=23175&p=277222
Last edited by highpilgrim on Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:51 am, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby rijaca » Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:32 am

highpilgrim wrote:I looked down the backside of Eolus into New York Basin and it looked easier than the way we came up from Chicago. A couple of others in our group agreed with the assessment. So I guess it depends on what your intended routes on Turret/Pigeon are...


Except that NY Basin doesn't really put you close to Chi Basin.
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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby highpilgrim » Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:38 am

rijaca wrote:
highpilgrim wrote:I looked down the backside of Eolus into New York Basin and it looked easier than the way we came up from Chicago. A couple of others in our group agreed with the assessment. So I guess it depends on what your intended routes on Turret/Pigeon are...


Except that NY Basin doesn't really put you close to Chi Basin.


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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby Floyd » Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:06 pm

Climbdent wrote:I have a question for anyone who has gone from Turret/Pigeon over to Chicago Basin to climb Jupiter. Would you go over Noname-Ruby and Twin Thumbs Pass or is their a way to stay on the South of Eolus?


Yep, great trip. Here is my trip report. Stick with Twin Thumbs, it's relatively easy.
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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby turbocat » Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:09 pm

I've been to Pigeon/Turret 2x and both have been from NoName/Ruby Pass into Ruby, then out to the Animas. Considered dropping into NY from @ North Eolus area in 2009 but it honestly looked pretty steep...wound up going over Twin Thumbs and wrapping around to NoName/Ruby Pass...much mellower (plus I knew the route already from a 2006 trip). I am not sure where the exit/entrance is to NY...I think lower in Needle Creek. Pigeon is a bit of a haul from Pigeon/Turret saddle because you traverse the entire mountain with a fair amount of elevation gain/loss...but the visit to Ruby is the payoff. Logistics into NY Basin always seemed to be lacking and I could never find Beta.
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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby highpilgrim » Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:21 pm

We also noticed a strong climber's trail on the ridge opposite Jupiter. When I look at in in Google earth it crosses the ridge and then traverses along the side opposite New York Basin well down into the valley. It looks like it could be accessed via New York in order to avoid the climb over Eolus.

trail.jpg
trail.jpg (312.71 KiB) Viewed 246 times


high trail.JPG
high trail.JPG (320.55 KiB) Viewed 246 times


The traverse is clear in Google Earth. The route down into New York is not...
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Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby climbing_rob » Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:27 pm

I'm drawing a blank on the Eolus/NY basin reasoning thing, but I have gone from Ruby to Chicago and back twice, and the route is very straightforward. After P&T, head up the ruby basin, staying left on a decent trail (fairly high left, if memory serves). The trail peters out, but just head up and over the easy ruby pass into a high branch of Noname basin, traverse over to two thumbs pass staying fairly high. Two thumbs pass is steep, but fairly easy, both sides, drop to twin lakes and then into upper chicago basin, hang a left at the main trail, Jupiter is right there. If you need Eolus as well, sure, you can do something fancy there, but going over Eolus from Ruby to get to Jupiter is the hard way, I believe.

Re: Turret/Pigeon to Jupiter Traverse?

Postby Climbdent » Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:11 pm

Ok, thanks for the advice and the Trip Report. I don't need Eolus so going Noname-Ruby to Twin Thumbs and down into Chi Basin seems like the most straight forward route.

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