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Mt Hood in July

14ers in California and Washington state or any other peak in the USA
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Mt Hood in July

Postby tlongpine » Fri May 25, 2012 9:36 am

I know Mt. Hood is merely 11,250 ft, and that this is "the Home of Colorado's 14er's and High Peaks" not "the Home of the Cascade Range's Glaciers and High Volcanoes" but I'm hoping some in this community of experienced alpinists have late-season experience on Mt. Hood.

Mostly I'm concerned about the quality, and quantity, of snowpack remaining in late July.

Generally, what kind of conditions should I expect?

Is there any reason this year would be exceptional? Better/worse/different?

Is there a particular route, preferably on the southern or west slopes, that is more suitable for this window?

Any feedback is much appreciated.
I am unable to walk away from the mountain without climbing it. An unclimbed mountain tugs at my consciousness with the eternal weight of time itself. Until I've pressed my face into it's alpine winds, hugged it's ancient granite walls, and put it's weathered summit beneath my heal I'm unable to resist it's attraction.Knowing nature gives the mountain more time than she gives us adds urgency to the obsession. As has been said before; the mountain doesn't care.

It can wait forever. I cannot.

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby Brian C » Fri May 25, 2012 10:44 am

Depends. There is a lot of snow out there now but if the temps get high enough it'll go fast.

"...but I'm hoping some in this community of experienced alpinists have late-season experience on Mt. Hood." There are reports on late-season ascents on here and SP and the consensus is it can be scary. The big issue on late season ascents is rock fall. Without a good freeze to keep them attached you could be in a bowling alley. Just depends on the conditions.
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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby tlongpine » Fri May 25, 2012 11:50 am

Fletch wrote:Quite a few members here will be attempting in early June. We'll have more to report then.

As for the snowpack, Hood has received >200% of average this year, so I'm fairly confident it will be still be a snow climb in July...



That's what I'm hoping. Otherwise, it'll be a great year for rapids.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for trip reports throughout June.
I am unable to walk away from the mountain without climbing it. An unclimbed mountain tugs at my consciousness with the eternal weight of time itself. Until I've pressed my face into it's alpine winds, hugged it's ancient granite walls, and put it's weathered summit beneath my heal I'm unable to resist it's attraction.Knowing nature gives the mountain more time than she gives us adds urgency to the obsession. As has been said before; the mountain doesn't care.

It can wait forever. I cannot.

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby Theodore » Fri May 25, 2012 12:02 pm

Might try Cascadeclimbers.com as well.

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby Tony1 » Fri May 25, 2012 12:07 pm

I would expect the Bergschrund to be open very wide by then. I was up there last week and was surprised at how open it was already.

The Old Chute variation of the south side route was in, and I would expect it to still be in by July as well. In that variation, you avoid climbing directly above the crevasse.

And I'll second trying cascadeclimbers.com as well. Good stuff over there!

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby MountainHiker » Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:29 pm

We arrived at Timberline Lodge last Sunday evening. The weather came in and the snow line came down. On Wednesday it cleared enough for us to try it. We turned back while still below Crater Rock. Although the sky was clear above us, the winds were in our faces with blowing snow. We could have pushed higher but could see the winds blowing snow across the crater. Climber were coming down that had turned around. We stopped by Timberline Guides later that day and they told us about half of their climbers made it. The weather came in again for Thursday as we left.

We watched this site through the week. I wish we would have had this week’s forecast instead.
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood

We did come home with good beta on the mountain. We’ll go back. I’ll have a much better visual in my head next time.
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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby tshyatt » Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:53 pm

I climbed Mt Hood 3 years ago on July 4 - after submitting Mt Ranier 2 days earlier. Summitted via standard hogs back route. That late in year the old chute is only option for this route. Requires helmet, ice axe and crampons as there will be ice and snow and steep slope. Dress warm - take clothing similar to winter Colorado climb. Also requires alpine start to minimze rockfall danger - 1:00 am as mountain starts to fall apart when it warms up during day. Real time conditions are posted at mountain sign in.

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby Carl » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:19 pm

For what it's worth, I thought the rockfall, steepness, and overall difficulty of Hood's standard route was quite over rated. Granted, we had perfect summer weather. Started around 1:30am and were back at the TH a little after 8am. Here is the route we took on July 22, 2009. Red ascent, green descent. Should have followed the green line up and down. I agree you'll want helmet, ice axe, and crampons.

Image

Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby lordhelmut » Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:29 am

Just got back from a week long trip out there. Hood region resembled winter, even from the parking lot as of yesterday morning. We never left the car and ended up just checking out the Timberline. Gusts well over 50mph at 5k and a reported 3 feet of new snow with it dumping all morning. You won't have to worry about snow, that's for sure.

I'm hoping you have nice weather window. I never quite understood what bad weather was till this last week. There is stuff where you can man up and power through and then there are PNW storms.

Another option is to try and find out when/if Chris Davenport is headed out there. I'm pretty sure he has Mother Nature's email address. He was out there from May 4 through 17. It went bluebird the day he arrived and stayed that way till he left, and the volcanoes haven't been visible much since.

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby ulvetano » Mon Jun 11, 2012 1:07 pm

Glad to hear there is plenty of snow. I'm also hoping for a repeat attempt in early July. This winter's attempt resulted in an hour of defrosting down at the Lodge!!
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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby Adventurgal » Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:20 pm

Good post!
We're headed to Hood and Shasta in two weeks. I didn't realize the above average snow fall.
Thanks.

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Re: Mt Hood in July

Postby cheeseburglar » Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:50 pm

Taylorz and I stopped by Hood just before Memorial weekend. Brutal weather, we didn't even bother to start up the mountain.
There are many routes on Hood, I think that if there is a good weather window you can find somewhere to play.
My goal for Hood, which I haven't been up yet, is the Sunshine Ridge (sort of on the north east side, if I remember right). Sounds like a moderate ski descent a mediocre skier like me could handle.
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