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Flatirons scrambling

Information on peaks other than the CO 14ers and 13ers.
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Flatirons scrambling

Postby somethingrandom » Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:19 am

Hey all-

Looking for a good spot in the Flatirons for scrambling. I would prefer to keep it class 3 to 4+ with a minimal approach as I dont know the area well at all.

Link would be helpful too :)
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby Dave B » Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:40 am

Mountain Project has a pretty good list.

Jason Haas' book also has quite a few 3rd and 4th class scrambles. The problem is, this time of year, many of the Flatirons are closed for raptor nesting and cannot be climbed.
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby DaveSwink » Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:44 am

Freeway link: [url]http://mountainproject.com/v/freeway/105752023[/url] Note that the mountainproject.com concensus is 5.0

Southeast ridge on Third Flatiron: [url]http://mountainproject.com/v/southeast-ridge/106641194[/url]

East ridge on Hammerhead [url]http://mountainproject.com/v/east-ridge/105760596[/url]

All of these have 20 - 30 minute approaches.

Edit: Good point on raptor closures! The Third Flatiron is closed, the Second is open. I think Hammerhead is open but you should check at the ranger station at Chautauqua first.

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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby Brian C » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:00 am

Not sure if you're available but I was planning on driving down tomorrow to solo something in the Flatirons. I'll be in town about 6pm and was thinking Baker's Way on the First.
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby nkan02 » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:02 am

dswink wrote:Freeway link: http://mountainproject.com/v/freeway/105752023 Note that the mountainproject.com concensus is 5.0

Southeast ridge on Third Flatiron: http://mountainproject.com/v/southeast-ridge/106641194

East ridge on Hammerhead http://mountainproject.com/v/east-ridge/105760596

All of these have 20 - 30 minute approaches.

Edit: Good point on raptor closures! The Third Flatiron is closed, the Second is open. I think Hammerhead is open but you should check at the ranger station at Chautauqua first.

Thank you for the links! I'd love to do more Flatirons routes this year. I did the First one last fall and had a blast.
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby Monster5 » Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:41 pm

There are a few guides available. Roach's guide is pretty confusing and not well organized at first but has good info. Rossiter also has a good guide. I also saw yet another at REI that was extremely good but pricey and I can't remember the name.

Some class 4 routes on Green Mountain:

-Either Freeway (class 4-) or Dodgeblock (4+) on the 2nd Flatiron. Freeway is easier. Walk-off. The summit block goes with one 5.easy move on the backside. Short rappel.

-El Camino Royale on the Regency (c4). Hardest part is finding the start of the route rather than getting sucked into the harder gullies on left. The summit is right in front of the Royal Arch and there is an escape notch to scramble back to hiking terrain.

-Royal Arch (c4). Start at the base. Be prepared to pose for tourists.

-Hammerhead (c4). Requires a bit of route-finding and judgement to keep it class 4. Gets thin and slightly spicier around the arch. Walk off. Summit block can be gained from the backside via a ledge system and buckets (5.0 - exposed). Rappel.

-Amoebid (class 4). Short and sweet - combine with the Anomaly. One has easier buckets and another is basic flatiron 4th class. Scramble/walk off.

I don't know much about the Dinosaur or Bear Peak Flatirons.

We have a resident Dr. Flatiron that can probably chime in.
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby Brian C » Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:58 pm

Monster5 wrote:...I also saw yet another at REI that was extremely good but pricey and I can't remember the name...


Jason Haas. It's a great book but the easier routes are just as vaguely written (if not more so) than the Roach guide. For the easier routes, Gerry's guide is the way to go but it does take some getting used to.

Monster5 wrote:We have a resident Dr. Flatiron that can probably chime in.


All the climbs suggested are good ones. The only thing I can stress is be careful. I don't know your climbing comfort-level so I don't want to nag but just know that the Flatiron "scrambles" are still considered to be roped climbs for many. Easy terrain often lies right next to much harder rock and it's not obvious unless you're versed in reading Flatiron rock. I often will carry a short rope and a set of nuts soloing something for the first time just in case I need it (and I have used it before) for bailing. Also, the Roach guide cannot be totally trusted. Some of the climbs he rates as 3rd or 4th class are really harder (i.e. South Sneak on the Second).

My favorite "scrambles" are...

Dodge Block (5.0)
Freeway (mostly 4th with some 5.0 down low)
Baker's Way (5.4)
Third Flatiron (5.2 and closed right now)
Hammerhead (4th class with exposed 5.0 summit block - bring a rope)
Regency (4th)
Sunset Flatironette (5.4)
The Seal via East Face North (5.4 - Bring 2 ropes for rappel)
Der Frieschutz via South Ridge (5.0)

Have fun out there. Like I said I'll be down soloing tomorrow if you're free.
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby Dave B » Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:17 pm

Brian C wrote:The only thing I can stress is be careful. I don't know your climbing comfort-level so I don't want to nag but just know that the Flatiron "scrambles" are still considered to be roped climbs for many.


This is great advice. The low ratings of many of the east facing Flatiron routes can easily lure one into a sense of complacency. Even when roped on the low 5th stuff protection is sparse at best and a lead fall 20-30 feet above your last piece could be disastrous on the low angled slabs.

I'll also add to Brian's list "Stairway to Heaven" (5.3) on Ridge One in Skunk Canyon. Did that yesterday and the last 3-4 pitches are amazing!
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby somethingrandom » Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:51 pm

Brian C wrote:Not sure if you're available but I was planning on driving down tomorrow to solo something in the Flatirons. I'll be in town about 6pm and was thinking Baker's Way on the First.


I think we are heading up tomorrow around 9A and while we are not experienced by any means, more than make up for it with a bit of determination ;)

You are certainly welcome to join. Shoot me a PM with your phone number if you would like to join.
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-To Cessna: "November one, zero, four Lima Papa, wind 080 at 90 peak gusts 120, runway 35 cleared for takeoff"

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-Whether climbing or flying, the single greatest thing to remember is that every ascent is optional, and if you feel like making another, your subsequent descent is mandatory.

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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby ajkagy » Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:25 pm

Iman86 wrote: There is a ton of runout though and on more than one occasion my partner has "free solo'd" an entire pitch and then belayed me up.

I think every slabby climb i've done on the flatirons involved some section where there was at least a 50-100ft run out. The pro is pretty much there to keep you from tumbling to the bottom, in reality if you slip you'll most likely end up with scraped knees and a bruised ego. I would always rope up though if there was any threat of rain during the day, that is the last place i would want to be in a rain shower since it gets so slick.

Not sure if anybody has mentioned the flatironette, It's maybe upper 4th class/low 5th class and a much shorter climb with a walk off. Free soloing it, you could do several laps very quickly and never has anybody on it like the first flatiron. Second flatiron (freeway) was always a favorite of mine for a quick climb as well when i lived in Boulder, and that doesn't get much traffic either.
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby Winter8000m » Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:13 pm

You can also reach the top of the second flatiron via the West side of the summit block if I can remember, from Freeway....A rope would be good to rappel but you could down climb if your comfortable with the climbing. You could always do some link ups too! The 3rd 2nd and 1rst has been one of my favorite outing in the Flatirons. They go fast. Or even the 2nd and 1rst link up right now!

I also will add in to be very careful with soloing routes there......For example, the 3rd Flatiron, easy if you know the way but if you don't you can find yourself on some 5.7R. So I think on some climbs there, it's a good idea to rope up first and find the way, and then if your comfortable, blast it the next time. Enjoy!
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Re: Flatirons scrambling

Postby heather14 » Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:43 pm

I'm thinking about doing a lap or two on the First Flatironette tomorrow after work, if anyone is interested. It's a good one in the area if you haven't done a lot of climbing in the flatirons or want to try some soloing. The climbing on the face stays easy relative to the flatirons allowing you to roam around a bit and staying along the south ridge allows you to hop off to a gully if you find you're not quite ready for soloing.
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