Forum
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...

5th Great Traverse Proposal

Have an interesting or epic climbing story? Post it here.
User avatar
Posts: 1377
Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 7:43 pm
Location: Estes Park

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby Kiefer » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:38 pm

To my knowledge, staying on the ridge crest for Cap-Snow has never been done. And in my experience, it can't. The sheer number of gendarmes and spires is prohibitive. One would HAVE to drop lower down.

Is the Harvard-Columbia traverse really that long? Had no idea!

User avatar
Posts: 741
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:49 am
Location: Golden, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby Doctor No » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:42 pm

Kiefer wrote:To my knowledge, staying on the ridge crest for Cap-Snow has never been done. And in my experience, it can't. The sheer number of gendarmes and spires is prohibitive. One would HAVE to drop lower down.


Talk about timing - I was just about to post your trip report:
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=9139

It seems like the definitive TR for the C/S ridge.

Posts: 3862
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:56 pm

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby tmathews » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:44 pm

nkan02 wrote:Someone recently explained to me that for the traverse to be named "great", the easiest route across has to be at least class 3. Columbia -Harvard do not fit the description. Otherwise, a fine route indeed.


This criteria would be easily satisfied by climbing directly over Rabbit Ridge (Class 5.7-ish?).

User avatar
Posts: 670
Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:24 pm
Location: Englewood, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby stevevets689 » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:53 pm

Maybe a name change is in order. How about the 4 "Classic" 14er traverses?
Never argue with an idiot. They'll take you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Posts: 77
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:12 am

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby Steaky » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:03 pm

The time I went out there, I (foolishly) took a group of sea-level people who had never been on a 14er before, let alone done a traverse. 17 hours, some crying, and crawling on their hands and knees. Almost bailed out down the Frenchman's Creek drainage, but that would have been even worse than going over the top. Summited Columbia at dusk. Could easily be considered a great traverse if you stuck to the crest of the ridge, but its technical.

User avatar
Posts: 2141
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:34 pm
Location: Crested Butte, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby ajkagy » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:04 pm

Kiefer wrote:To my knowledge, staying on the ridge crest for Cap-Snow has never been done. And in my experience, it can't. The sheer number of gendarmes and spires is prohibitive. One would HAVE to drop lower down.


I wouldn't be surprised if it hasn't been done, but you never know considering many never documented their adventures before the advent of the internet. Although i must say your TR is amazing and damn scary at the same time...all those monster loose blocks up there makes me never want to get close to it.
http://www.resortbeta.com - An interactive ski/snowboard experience for all your favorite ski resorts.

User avatar
Posts: 950
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:55 pm
Location: Broomfield, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby nkan02 » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:16 pm

Terry, the easiest route on the traverse has to be Class 3+. This traverse has class 2 route.
Last edited by nkan02 on Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Posts: 3862
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:56 pm

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby tmathews » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:19 pm

nkan02 wrote:Terry, the easiest route on the traverse has to be Class 3+.


Ah, yeah. Sorry about that! Any 13er traverses that satisfy this criteria? I would love to do some more scrambling.

User avatar
Posts: 950
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:55 pm
Location: Broomfield, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby nkan02 » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:52 pm

I would be curious to know why Lindsey - Blanca traverse didn't make the list. True, portions of it can be Class 2, but once you are on the Gash ridge, it is definitely more and it didn't look like there was an alternative route.

Online
User avatar
Posts: 7366
Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 2:23 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby Jim Davies » Wed Aug 31, 2011 10:12 am

The "great traverses" list is based on aesthetics, much like the CMC "54 14ers" list. I can't imagine why Bross-Cameron didn't make the traverse list. :)

Also, each of the "great" traverses allows the climber to readily return to the starting point without re-traversing. That rules out both Gash Ridge and Capitol-Snowmass.
Some people are afraid of heights. Not me, I'm afraid of white blood cells.

User avatar
Posts: 570
Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 12:15 pm
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby KentonB » Wed Aug 31, 2011 12:07 pm

All I know is, when we did the Harvard/Columbia traverse, the sun was setting when we got to Columbia... It was a long, dark walk down that scree slope they call a trail.

User avatar
Posts: 744
Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:29 am
Location: Centennial, CO

Re: 5th Great Traverse Proposal

Postby benners » Wed Aug 31, 2011 12:35 pm

tmathews wrote:Any 13er traverses that satisfy this criteria? I would love to do some more scrambling.


There are many. Check out Dave Cooper's 50 Classic Scrambles book for a few ideas...

A few good ones that come to mind are:

Milwaukee to Pico Asilado
The Grand Traverse in the Gores
Partners Traverse
Arapahoe Traverse
Tijeras to Music
Pagoda to Chiefs Head
McHenry's to Powell
The Trinity Traverse
Apache to Navajo

PreviousNext

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests