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Granite Peak Mountana

14ers in California and Washington state or any other peak in the USA
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:32 pm
Location: Loveland

Granite Peak Mountana

Postby TerryLiv » Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:37 pm

I am planning a climb over Labor Day weekend. Any takers? Anyone done it? How is the top section compared to after the knife ridge of Capitol?

Thanks,

Terry

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby hansolo35 » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:01 pm

did Granite over Labor Day weekend 10 years ago. the pitch to the summit from the high col is pretty serious with big exposure (ie: you don't want to fall). Totally class 4 for a few hundred feet with I believe some low class 5 moves thrown in for spicyness. In my opinion Granite is a tougher climb than Capitol, with the crux worse than the knife-edge (although both have serious exposure). the moves to attain Granite's summit are tougher than the scoot across the knife. But I climbed Granite solo and considering my skills on rock aren't the best (I'm a solid 5.7 climber tops), you can do it. It's a spectacular peak in a remote wilderness.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby Presto » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:37 pm

I've often considered this route ... certainly less traffic than the standard route (doesn't use FTD plateau, the snow bridge or standard climbing route).

Route Description
http://www.summitpost.org/southwest-couloir-route/160092

Trip Reports
http://www.summitpost.org/granite-peak-laser-strike-the-southwest-couloir/549417
http://www.summitpost.org/from-mt-to-tx-giving-100-for-80/557311
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM

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Re: Granite Peak Montana

Postby CliminDave » Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:10 pm

Climbed Granite a few years back. It was a wonderful trip! The climb itself is a challenge with Class 4+ near the top. We used a rope but could have done it without as well. The scariest part for me was not on the climb but on the Froze-to-Death Plateau. We camped there 2 nights. The Mt goats have learned the 'salt in the urine' thing and will walk right up to a urinating human type. I had to zip up a couple of times for fear of being impaled! Anyway, it is a great climb that is now a cherished memory. Best of luck!

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Re: Granite Peak Montana

Postby TerryLiv » Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:26 pm

CliminDave wrote:Climbed Granite a few years back. It was a wonderful trip! The climb itself is a challenge with Class 4+ near the top. We used a rope but could have done it without as well. The scariest part for me was not on the climb but on the Froze-to-Death Plateau. We camped there 2 nights. The Mt goats have learned the 'salt in the urine' thing and will walk right up to a urinating human type. I had to zip up a couple of times for fear of being impaled! Anyway, it is a great climb that is now a cherished memory. Best of luck!


Reminds me of Chicago Basin. When we left camp there were 8 goats in camp checking out our urine. Closest one was about 20 feet away.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby Scott P » Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:31 pm

Any takers


Hmmm, seriously tempting.

I was thinking of something closer, but I've always wanted to climb Granite.

If I did go, I'd be coming from Craig. I wonder if there would be somewhere we could meet and carpool from there?

Also, I know my son would want to go, but I assume that you may not want a younger climber to come along on this one?
I'm slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby pbakwin » Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:16 pm

My brother has done the standard & SW Couloir rtes & confirms that the SW Coul is easier. I did the standard rte & would say it is harder climbing than any standard rte on a Colo 14er - by a good bit. Class 5 for sure.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby Alan Ellis » Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:37 am

Granite via the East Ridge/South Face is harder than Capitol. Here is my Granite Peak route page if you decide on the East Ridge/South Face: http://www.jackieandalan.com/graniteroute.html
Sack up and climb.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby SarahT » Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:40 am

The std route is definately harder than Capitol; most parties bring a rope. Sustained 4th class with a couple of low 5th class moves and significant routefinding. We had a group of 3 strong & experienced Colorado scramblers and one asked for the rope in two spots going up. We all did several rappels on the way down. I have some pictures of the scrambling that may help give you an idea of what to expect: http://www.13ergirl.com/granite/granite.html
Last edited by SarahT on Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Die Zeit ist unendlich lang und ein jeder Tag ein Gefäß, in das sich sehr viel eingießen lässt, wenn man es wirklich ausfüllen will.... Goethe
http://www.13ergirl.com/

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby Alan Ellis » Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:47 am

SarahT wrote:The std route is definately harder than Capitol; most parties bring a rope. Sustained 4th class with a couple of low 5th class moves and significant routefinding. We had a group of 3 strong & experienced Colorado scramblers and one asked for the rope in one spot going up. We all did several rappels on the way down. I have some pictures of the scrambling that may help give you an idea of what to expect: http://www.13ergirl.com/granite/granite.html


Nice photos!
Sack up and climb.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby dsunwall » Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:07 am

I have heard there is more snow to deal with this year on Granite. I don't know anything more specific though.

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Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Postby MtHurd » Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:08 am

Pics look a lot like Jagged.

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