Ellingwood Point to UN-13,660 Ridge

[Brad Snider]

The traverse of Gash Ridge/Blanca all the way to California Peak looks like a sweet ridge. Having trouble finding any beta on the section between Ellingwood's north ridge, UN 13618 and UN 13660, except for this photo: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/371 ... 5351_o.jpg (which makes it look do-able). Anyone have any first hand experience with it? Trying to see if I can get away without needing a rope for this section.

[Kiefer]

The traverse of Gash Ridge/Blanca all the way to California Peak looks like a sweet ridge. Having trouble finding any beta on the section between Ellingwood's north ridge, UN 13618 and UN 13660, except for this photo: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/371 ... 5351_o.jpg (which makes it look do-able). Anyone have any first hand experience with it? Trying to see if I can get away without needing a rope for this section.

From what I know...most of that particular section is 3rd class with some 4th class moves.
These is a short, maybe 30-40 foot section coming off Ellingwood that is low 5th. I haven't heard much about the rock quality but considering no one
climbs it or visits it on a regular basis, I'd expect a lot of choss and loose stuff.
I remember seeing/reading a report from someone (don't remember who) who climbed Ellingwood from South Zapata Lake. From what I remember, it was challenging but well within 'normal' means. I intend to head up there in that direction later this summer at some point. It's something I've been curious about as well.

[Ridge runner]

If you zoom in on that flickr photo you can see some mountain goats along the ridge. So it can't be that bad, right?

Here's a picture of Ellingwood (center) from California:


Here is a close-up of Ellingwood's north ridge:

I intend to head up there in that direction later this summer at some point. It's something I've been curious about as well.

Not without me, buddy.

[globreal]

If I recall from peaking over the edge, I think it's a couple hundred feet of shear drop off that north side of the Ellingwood summit. I don't think that long ridge goes all the way to the top of the peak. Can anyone confirm?

[mattpayne11]

If you zoom in on that flickr photo you can see some mountain goats along the ridge. So it can't be that bad, right?

Haha, that's my photo!

[Brad Snider]

@ globreal: Based several reports, the north ridge of Ellingwood Point can be down-climbed without rope as long as one is comfortable with exposure (http://www.summitpost.org/blanca-peak-a ... ead/210400) and (http://www.summitpost.org/caught-in-the ... int/219666) and (http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.ph ... m=tripmain). Apparently from everyone I've read in recent years, Roach's description exaggerates the ridge's upper difficulties. I was more curious about the ridge leading from the saddle to 13,618 and on over to 13,660, but from the looks of the photos and the other beta in this thread it's looking like that might be less difficult than the downclimb to the saddle, so I think I'll give it a go.

@ Kiefer: I was also considering the approach from Zapata Lake, "Crossfire Coulior" (http://www.summitpost.org/caught-in-the ... int/219666) or "C2 Couloir" (http://www.summitpost.org/a-como-free-a ... -c2/659252) both look like good approaches to Ellingwood from that direction. For my purposes, I think the Huerfano / Gash Ridge approach would make a more aesthetic loop for what I am planning to do.

Thanks, all for the beta!

[Brad Snider]

If you zoom in on that flickr photo you can see some mountain goats along the ridge. So it can't be that bad, right?

Haha, that's my photo!

Nice pics Matt. Cool website too. Really makes me look forward to climbing Wham Ridge some day!

[mattpayne11]

If you zoom in on that flickr photo you can see some mountain goats along the ridge. So it can't be that bad, right?

Haha, that's my photo!

Nice pics Matt. Cool website too. Really makes me look forward to climbing Wham Ridge some day!

Thanks man - GL on the Ellingwood adventure - I'm interested in how you fare. I am sure it is doable, just need to do some careful route-finding.

[Brad Snider]

Just to update: I tried the traverse 6/22 but bailed for a couple of reasons. Weather was great, Gash Ridge was a blast and I made it most of the way down the north ridge of Ellingwood Point, but at 13,400 feet the rock turned to vertical 5th class choss that was breaking off in my hands. I was very altitude sluggish because of having come from sea level the day before and I decided to turn around at this point. Fortunately I had a car shuttle and my awesome wife was able to pick me up at 8,800 feet on the Lake Como Road after I went back up over Ellingwood Point. Still, a fun day on the 2 14ers!

Full trip report here: http://bradsnider.com/mountains/20110622.htm

[mattpayne11]

Just to update: I tried the traverse 6/22 but bailed for a couple of reasons. Weather was great, Gash Ridge was a blast and I made it most of the way down the north ridge of Ellingwood Point, but at 13,400 feet the rock turned to vertical 5th class choss that was breaking off in my hands. I was very altitude sluggish because of having come from sea level the day before and I decided to turn around at this point. Fortunately I had a car shuttle and my awesome wife was able to pick me up at 8,800 feet on the Lake Como Road after I went back up over Ellingwood Point. Still, a fun day on the 2 14ers!

Full trip report here: http://bradsnider.com/mountains/20110622.htm

Nice photos man. I commend you for your efforts! Not many people venture that far off route these days (and live) -
Good stuff. Keep em' coming!

[taylorbm]

If you zoom in on that flickr photo you can see some mountain goats along the ridge. So it can't be that bad, right?

Here's a picture of Ellingwood (center) from California:


Here is a close-up of Ellingwood's north ridge:

I intend to head up there in that direction later this summer at some point. It's something I've been curious about as well.

Not without me, buddy.

@Ridge runner What time of year was that photo taken? I'm doing some research to get an idea of what Crossfire Colouir is like right now (i.e. how much and how long it holds snow).

If anyone has some recent photos or beta for the ridge coming up out of South Zapata Lake basin it would be much appreciated.

Thanks!