Mount Robson Info Request

[JohnWilliams]

First of all, has anybody attempted or climbed Mount Robson? If so, would you share some light on the peak?
What time of year did you go, or would you attempt? What is the approach like? Any Idea on round trip lenth, permitted there is good weather. Any idea on a good guide book or map?

From what little research I've done it seems like weather is the main crux of most moderate routes up Robson. Can anybody elaborate on any part of this magnificent peak?

I have TONS of Canuck relatives in the gereral area so I have lots of motivation when it comes to a Canadian road trip. Would anybody be interested in a trip up to the roof of the Canadian Rockies?!

http://www.summitpost.org/mount-robson/150397

John

[Brian C]

Yes! When? I was going to try and plan for Assiniboine and other Canadian Rockies but was not sure if it would happen. I could be convinced for Robson as well.

Let me know the details and I can sure try and make it work.

[TomPierce]

John: I have no firsthand knowledge of Robson but did some research on it a few years back (I was thinking the North Face, but also looking at the Kain...wasn't sure if I was getting too ambitious, etc.) From what I read in a few postings, articles, etc. the on-foot approach is a real pain. I believe there are some river crossings, etc. Not positive on that but nothing I've read says it's a snap, esp with a heavy tech pack. Seems like a lot of people are doing chopper flights in. I also recall there were 2 falatlities on the N Face a couple of years back, I think a freak summer slide was the culprit, so getting a local assessment of conditions seems prudent. I have the standard Selected Climbs of the Canadian Rockies which you're welcome to borrow/xerox. Not a ton of info but a decent photo or two of the standard routes, etc. I also know there are some decent online TR's for the N Face.

I've always been interested in the N Face of Athabasca, which is supposed to be a solid alpine ice climb but less committing than Robson.

-Tom

[JohnP FTC]

The "Mountain Profile" in Alpinist #29 is Mt. Robson. You could scrounge up a copy of that or borrow mine if you'd like. I can't remember many specifics on that particular article (it's at home, I'm working) but I'm sure it would be of some help to you.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP29/mount ... -mt-robson" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Your more than welcome to call or PM me if you'd like.

-John P.

[TomPierce]

Ah, I forgot about that JohnP, good catch. I'm 99% sure I have a copy of that as well.

[JohnWilliams]

I did see the Alpinist 29 Robson profile. AMAZING! Reading those first hand accounts really has a way of inspiring me!
Thanks for the info Tom. Would you ever be interested in giving it a go? Kain Face and North face routes look incredible! So does House-Haley! what a peak!
Brian, lets talk some about a Canada Trip. Looks like july-september is prime climbing on Robson, when were you looking at going North?

john

[TomPierce]

John: I'd be interested. I just looked over a bank of photos from the Iowa Mountaineers on the Kain route and I thought it was a walk up but clearly not. 50 degree ice crux, a bergscrund to surmount, an icefall...sounds really fun! Of course it's hard to commit that far out and I'd need to sell it domestically, but this isn't a "death route" (my wife tends to frown on those...). Is this a likely-to-go thing or kicking tires (not that I fault that, I've probably kicked dozens of mountain tires...)?
-Tom

[Bean]

John: I'd be interested. I just looked over a bank of photos from the Iowa Mountaineers on the Kain route and I thought it was a walk up but clearly not. 50 degree ice crux, a bergscrund to surmount, an icefall...sounds really fun! Of course it's hard to commit that far out and I'd need to sell it domestically, but this isn't a "death route" (my wife tends to frown on those...). Is this a likely-to-go thing or kicking tires (not that I fault that, I've probably kicked dozens of mountain tires...)?
-Tom

Robson has an extremely high failure rate (~90%). If it had typical Colorado weather the success rate would be far higher.

[queue_ball]

qb has hiked up the first couple of portions of the approach to Robson along the creek from the visitor's center. The color of the water in the creek is a spooky, delicious, metallic blue. But more to the piont: Robson is one of those peaks that can be truly labeled "awesome" from any nearby vantage piont. We got a fleeting glimpse of the summit, which is exceedingly rare and which fact should tell you something about Robson's difficulty. It clearly creates its own weather.

Robson is a bucket list item that qb will probably never realize. But I would set aside at least a week from trailhead to trailhead and go with an experienced guide. It has a reputation for being terribly unforgiving. On the other hand, the summit would be a magnificent achievement. Underestimate it at your peril, methinks.

qb

[Mark A Steiner]

Many years ago I saw this awesome peak from a respectful distance. The profile resembled K2 in the Karakorams. Probably just as dangerous too.

[XMULE]

Agreed. Mt Robson is probably THE most impressive peak I have ever seen in person. The approach on the highway from Jasper is quite extraordinary: Mt Robson is completely hidden from view, until it's not -- and you're instantly confronted by 10,000' of mountain, right in front of your face.

I'm fortunate in that I've been there twice and on both occasions the weather was fine.

[TomPierce]

XMULE: Curious, what were the dates of your visits? Just trying to get a sense of weather windows. Thx,
-Tom