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Cameras, AGAIN

Camera equipment and technique for taking photos.
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Posts: 332
Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 3:38 pm

Re: Cameras, AGAIN

Postby hatidua » Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:16 pm

As far as split-ND's, I have Lee's, Tiffen, Coken-P's, Singh-Ray, and some custom filters from the motion picture industry suppliers as well as some one-man-shop places that make filters one at a time specifically for individual purposes, namely my split-diopter needs for 50/50 shots (when it comes to those filters, think $$$$$). If you aren't really familiar with them, I'd suggest starting off with a 0.6 Tiffen screw-on and see if you can utilize the effect. I also use Nik Software's "Color Efex Pro 3.0", which can do things we only dreamed about a few years ago.

All I'm really trying to do with a split ND is get some density in the sky. If there is ANY density at all, I can tweak it later. It's the blown-out highlights that pose a problem later on in the form of additional work. Generally, I prefer a screw-on filter when hiking as a square drop-in filter requires a holder or physically holding it in front of the lens.

Alternatively, you can simply put the camera on a tripod and bracket a half dozen exposures, combining the best upper with the best lower later.

The downside with any gel or acrylic filter is scratches which turns most light sources into specular highlights. Not everyone post 1978 is into the star filter effect \:D/

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Re: Cameras, AGAIN

Postby pw » Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:33 pm

hatidua wrote:As far as split-ND's, I have Lee's, Tiffen, Coken-P's, Singh-Ray, and some custom filters from the motion picture industry suppliers as well as some one-man-shop places that make filters one at a time specifically for individual purposes, namely my split-diopter needs for 50/50 shots (when it comes to those filters, think $$$$$). If you aren't really familiar with them, I'd suggest starting off with a 0.6 Tiffen screw-on and see if you can utilize the effect. I also use Nik Software's "Color Efex Pro 3.0", which can do things we only dreamed about a few years ago.



Thanks, I think I'll give that thing a try. I have too many photos with washed out skies or blown highlights in the snow on mountains.

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Re: Cameras, AGAIN

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:51 pm

hatidua wrote:As far as split-ND's, I have Lee's, Tiffen, Coken-P's, Singh-Ray, and some custom filters from the motion picture industry suppliers as well as some one-man-shop places that make filters one at a time specifically for individual purposes, namely my split-diopter needs for 50/50 shots (when it comes to those filters, think $$$$$). If you aren't really familiar with them, I'd suggest starting off with a 0.6 Tiffen screw-on and see if you can utilize the effect. I also use Nik Software's "Color Efex Pro 3.0", which can do things we only dreamed about a few years ago.

All I'm really trying to do with a split ND is get some density in the sky. If there is ANY density at all, I can tweak it later. It's the blown-out highlights that pose a problem later on in the form of additional work. Generally, I prefer a screw-on filter when hiking as a square drop-in filter requires a holder or physically holding it in front of the lens.

Alternatively, you can simply put the camera on a tripod and bracket a half dozen exposures, combining the best upper with the best lower later.

The downside with any gel or acrylic filter is scratches which turns most light sources into specular highlights. Not everyone post 1978 is into the star filter effect \:D/


Excellent call. I've been experimenting with a sort of poor-man's hand-held HDR and getting two or three exposures with the PNS and using what I need from each in post. Yeah, it's a lot of work - would be nice to just shoot it that way. Blown highlights are the biggest problem, which is why I started doing that. It's actually worked out pretty well - I've used a couple of the finished images in trip reports. Lack of a tripod is not a big deal - what I've been doing is pasting as a second layer, then taking the eraser across high-contrast areas to determine if the second layer needs to be moved - then moving it, and taking out the eraser marks. Then erasing what I don't need from the second layer. It's been working surprisingly well. However, I have been reluctant to drag the SLR onto some of the longer treks. So I'm considering an S90 (the S95 I think is primarily ugraded with the video) and this LEX-5.

Thanks for the tips on the filtering - sounds like the whole idea is to get some kind of density in there that you can work with in post, so you don't have blown highlights?

It's great to have some guys here that I can learn from! We have the same passion as far as the landscape images (and occasional portraiture, like rock climbing shots for example) but you guys are way ahead of me as far as experience and technical aspects, so I sure appreciate the links and the education.

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