Ze Grand Teton

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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TomPierce
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by TomPierce »

Skier 25: I'd recommend you visit http://www.mountainproject.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. It's a free site geared toward technical climbers and has many relatively detailed, up to date entries on a lot of Teton routes, along with some pretty good photos. Just go to Wyoming>Grand Teton NP>Grand Teton and follow the links of interest. It's not designed to be completely comprehensive but you'll get good beta on fairly recent conditions, racks, etc. Good luck,
-Tom

Edit: mountainproject also has a forum where, if you join (free), you can post questions on your climb. You usually can get good data that way as well.
Last edited by TomPierce on Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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jbchalk
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by jbchalk »

I've climbed the Grand via the Owen-Spaulding Route and the Upper Exum - highly recommend both routes. If your climb the O-S route, throw in the Owen Chimney pitch instead of the class 3 slabs - its a fun 5.6 80' chimney with a few pitons and well protected chimney. I'll be climbin the Upper Exum again this August for my bachleor party!
TomPierce
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by TomPierce »

skier25: Not to beat a dead horse on the CD thing, but I went to look at the descent info for your route and there are 5 or so photos from various perspectives, most from the climber's point of view, e.g. "Descent: From the summit." Seems like it'd be a pretty handy tool for making sure you were on route, etc. Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss or whatever.
CG_old
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by CG_old »

I went up Exum and down OS w/o seeing either route beforehand (this was pre-Internet days). Route finding down OS wasn't difficult... I doubt you'll have any issues.
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drodriguez
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by drodriguez »

Chris Gerber wrote:I went up Exum and down OS w/o seeing either route beforehand (this was pre-Internet days). Route finding down OS wasn't difficult... I doubt you'll have any issues.
This is helpful to know. I've been looking at all kinds of things, and still hoping that I'd recognize these routes when I saw them.

The OS - It's bolted now isn't it? How many pitches require a rap?
Runnin' down a dream that never would come to me...
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skiwall
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by skiwall »

That's REALLY helpful to know! Maybe we should try it this year. :)
"A good woman knows her place is in the backcountry." - PW '08
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jbchalk
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by jbchalk »

drodriguez wrote:
Chris Gerber wrote:I went up Exum and down OS w/o seeing either route beforehand (this was pre-Internet days). Route finding down OS wasn't difficult... I doubt you'll have any issues.
This is helpful to know. I've been looking at all kinds of things, and still hoping that I'd recognize these routes when I saw them.

The OS - It's bolted now isn't it? How many pitches require a rap?
By bolted, if you mean the rappel is bolted, then yes, but thats it. there are big eyebolts with webbing and what not at the main rap that the park service has put up. No bolts on the O-S route though. The rap can be done in one large 140' rap by tying two ropes together...thats the easiest way.
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drodriguez
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by drodriguez »

jbchalk wrote:
drodriguez wrote:
Chris Gerber wrote:I went up Exum and down OS w/o seeing either route beforehand (this was pre-Internet days). Route finding down OS wasn't difficult... I doubt you'll have any issues.
This is helpful to know. I've been looking at all kinds of things, and still hoping that I'd recognize these routes when I saw them.

The OS - It's bolted now isn't it? How many pitches require a rap?
By bolted, if you mean the rappel is bolted, then yes, but thats it. there are big eyebolts with webbing and what not at the main rap that the park service has put up. No bolts on the O-S route though. The rap can be done in one large 140' rap by tying two ropes together...thats the easiest way.
Excellent. Thank you for clearly answering my unclear question.
Runnin' down a dream that never would come to me...
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Alan Ellis
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by Alan Ellis »

I don't recall big eyebolts at the original OS rap, but then it has been seven years since we did it. I recall a mass of slings and rings that the guide services put up each year. However a new rap station was installed in August 04 which is 50 meters north of the original rap, and that may be the one that has the eyebolts. This rap station requires two ropes.

The main rap is a little over 100' if you rap to the "South". It can be done with one 60 meter rope if done correctly. The bottom of the rap slopes downward toward the north. If you throw your rope and rap on the "south" side, your single 60 meter rope will reach the ground with rope stretch. If you throw and rap to the north side, you'll be hanging there with about 20 ft to go. Don't forget to tie knots at the ends of your ropes. :)

Here's my Grand Teton and OS route page on SP: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... teton.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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norseman
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Re: Ze Grand Teton

Post by norseman »

Expect it to be crowded, start as early as you can. I found the crowds the biggest problem. Waiting on slow groups ahead especially in bad weather at the rappel can suck. Route finding was fairly easy. Get a good guide book.
May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.
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