Forum
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...

My #3 BD C4 works!

Have an interesting or epic climbing story? Post it here.
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:08 pm

Southeast vs. Co

Postby outdordan » Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:04 pm

I was wondering if any of you guys have climbed in the SE or even Alabama and know if there is any difference in ratings? If I am leading both sport and trad 5.10 +/- should I expect to be doing that out west or what?
<daniel>

User avatar
Posts: 435
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:41 pm

If you are leading a 5.10+/- both trad and sport, you should be able to do this out west too. This is of course assuming that you are using the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System) which I imagine you are. It was developed as a universal system so that no matter where you go, a 5.8 will always be a 5.8. Of course this is not always the case. They have change the 5.10+/- though to an a-d rating, which is more common on newer climbs than a + and - denoting the difficulty. A 5.10a is at the beginning and 5.10d at the end, almost at a 5.11a.

The ratings are the same everywhere, although you must realize that each crag can be different. Some areas are stiffly rated, (this is usually when the climbs were developed long ago when the YDS only went up to 5.10, since then it is now open ended and extends currently to 5.15a.) I have been to places where a 5.7 feels like a 5.10. I have also been on places where a 5.10b felt like a 5.8. It depends on the area and who rates it. Over or under rating a climb is fairly common, although most climbers try to reach a consensus on a climb.

Rock type will also factor into difficulty. I can tell you right now, that a 5.10+ trad lead in the sandstone at Garden of the Gods will be much more difficult (and dangerous) than a 5.10+ lead at North Table Mountain, where the rock is more stable and made of volcanics.

I don't think you have to worry to much, just get out here and climb! I have been all over in Colorado, parts of Utah and some in Texas and each place varies. You will know your limit when you see what you will try to climb!

Dan
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:08 pm

Postby outdordan » Thu Nov 30, 2006 3:03 pm

Yea we use the YDS, and it is the same out here as I guess everywhere one crag is scaled slightly different than the next. Hopefully sometime this summer I will be able to grap my first multi pitch. Trad here is a lil diff than out there I guess. 150 200 feet never change pitch. We just do it cause we like place'n our on pro. What is your suggestions on a fun beginner multi pitch?
<daniel>

User avatar
Posts: 435
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:02 pm

Ah, the wonderful world of multi-pitch. I love multi, but have never done a multi-trad, so I might not be the best source for those types of climbs. I know there are several moderate (5.3-5.6) alpine trad climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. As far as multi-pitch sport goes, there are some really neat routes in the Garden of the Gods as well as on Shelf Road. There is also a relatively new spot that not many people know about called Green Wall inbetween Colorado Springs and Canyon City. I have been there a few times but don't have any coordinates, it is all from memory. Try checking out Summit Post.org for more information or Mountainproject.com and Rockclimbing.com. They all have pretty specific route info for Colorado.

Dan
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

User avatar
Posts: 435
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:03 pm

Ah, the wonderful world of multi-pitch. I love multi, but have never done a multi-trad, so I might not be the best source for those types of climbs. I know there are several moderate (5.3-5.6) alpine trad climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. As far as multi-pitch sport goes, there are some really neat routes in the Garden of the Gods as well as on Shelf Road. There is also a relatively new spot that not many people know about called Green Wall inbetween Colorado Springs and Canyon City. I have been there a few times but don't have any coordinates, it is all from memory. Try checking out Summit Post.org for more information or Mountainproject.com and Rockclimbing.com. They all have pretty specific route info for Colorado.

Dan
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

User avatar
Posts: 311
Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2006 9:04 pm
Location: North Denver Metro area

Postby mainpeak » Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:29 pm

outdordan wrote:Yea we use the YDS, and it is the same out here as I guess everywhere one crag is scaled slightly different than the next. Hopefully sometime this summer I will be able to grap my first multi pitch. Trad here is a lil diff than out there I guess. 150 200 feet never change pitch. We just do it cause we like place'n our on pro. What is your suggestions on a fun beginner multi pitch?


hey outdor, this is the list I'm working off of. Classic multi pitch routes starting at 5.4 . I also have many 5.3's in guidebooks but their at home and I'm still at work.

http://www.neptunemountaineering.com/ac ... _rock.html

Anyway, 150 ft would be considered common, but I wouldn't expect to see too many 200 ft pitches, unless you want to do a running belay :shock: . Otherwise, you ain't gonna make it if you are using any of your climbing line for the anchor or you and your parter like to back up your figure 8's ;-)

User avatar
Posts: 311
Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2006 9:04 pm
Location: North Denver Metro area

Postby mainpeak » Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:37 pm

Dan the Mountain Man wrote:To each their own. Guess you just have to trust your belayer knows what he/she is doing. Seeing as Andy caught my fall, I feel that he has a pretty good idea of what was going on. He was definately attentive, but was not staring at me the whole time, which is fine. So long as you can manage the rope and brake at a moments notice, you are fine.

Sometimes I let my belayer know that I am very uncomfortable on a certain part of the climb, and let them know that I can slip at any time. In this case it gives me more a mental blanket to know that they are always watching me. If I turn and they are not I make sure to bark at them to look! Like I said though, it is a matter of trust between you and your partner, and Andy has sufficiently demonstrated to me that he can be trusted! :D

Dan


I wasn't attacking your partner, Dan. I was actually agreeing with his strategy on alpine routes for the most part.

I agree that communication with your partner is what its all about . I've always used "watch me" or "give me slack" if I need more or less concentration, respectively. If my belayer is out of earshot then we communicate through rope pulls - one pull for each syllable of the expression. This also works for " I'm off belay" ( four pulls) , etc. It's all about establishing communication and trust with your partner , and it seems like you and Andy have it down. Cheers.

CG_old

Postby CG_old » Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:44 pm

Andy wrote:
Good thing I'm not looking for partners... it sounds like I'm scaring a lot of people :lol:.


I have and would climb with you again anyday, anytime...

User avatar
Posts: 1803
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 2:07 pm
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Postby Andy » Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:35 pm

outdordan wrote:What is your suggestions on a fun beginner multi pitch?

Oooooo yeah! This is what I enjoy most. I suck at rock climbing so beginner stuff is all I can handle. My life's ambition is lead 5.8 alpine/trad. If I could do the big face on Mount Alice I would die a happy man. Anywho, I would classify everything I've ever done as "fun beginner multi-pitch":

Alpine Climbs in RMNP:

Longs Peak Kieners Route (II 5.4) - only about 20' of 5.4 if you're a good route finder, the rest is class 4 or less - you could link it with Alexander's Chimney 5.5 to make it more interesting
Longs Peak Keyhole Ridge (II 5.5) - only about 40' of 5.5 if you pass the second tower on the west side, the rest is class 4 or less
Notchtop Mountain Spiral Route (III 5.4) - only about two pitches of 5.4, the rest is class 4 or less
The Sharkstooth Northeast Ridge (II 5.6)
The Spearhead North Ridge (III 5.6)
Hallett Peak Great Dihedral (II 5.7) - this contains the nicest pitch I've ever led - the dihedral is sublime. you can continue on to the top of the first buttress and then on to the summit if you want but we got weathered off.

Boulder Area Crags:

Third Flatiron Standard East Face (5.2-5.4ish) - this is the only one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs I've been able to do :lol:
First Flatiron North Arete (5.4) - first couple pitches are bit run-out but once you're on the ridge it's easy sailing with nice exposure
Fifth Flatiron East Face Left (5.5)
Seal Rock East Face North Side (5.4) - the climb is mellow but the rappel off the top is exciting
Eldorado Canyon Swanson Arete (5.5) - the clean dihedral toward the top was super fun

Things I didn't get around to this year but are on the top of my list for next year:

Mount Ypsilon Blitzen Ridge (III 5.4) - looks soooo sweet
Blanca Peak Ormes Buttress (III 5.6) - I'm a bit intimidated by this one but towards the end of next season I should have my courage up
Quandary Peak Inwood Arete (II 5.4-5.7)
Crestone Needle Ellingwood Ledges/Arete (III 5.7) - people say the crux is harder than it sounds
Lone Eagle Peak North Face (III 5.7)
Vestal Peak Wham Ridge (III 5.4)
Mount Sneffels North Buttress (III 5.6) - not a lot of beta on this one - would certainly by an "adventure climb"
Blanca Peak Gash Ridge (III 5.0ish) - I gotta go back and try this one again since my last half-assed effort got thwarted
Mount Evans - Something on the 2nd Apron (5.5-5.7ish) - this would be a nice, stylish way to bag evans

I'd also like to make a trip to the Tetons for the Direct Exum Route on the Grand and a first trip into the Wind Rivers for the North Ridge of Ellingwood Peak.
"What a day, eh, Milhouse? The sun is out, birds are singing,
bees are trying to have sex with them - as is my understanding..."

- Bart Simpson

"You are not Steve F-ing House."
- Best RockClimbing.com Rant Ever

www.AndyInTheRockies.com

User avatar
Posts: 1803
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 2:07 pm
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Postby Andy » Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:40 pm

Chris Gerber wrote:I have and would climb with you again anyday, anytime...

Aaaah thanks. Has anyone invited you to this Sunday's festivities? The usual suspects should be departing Boulder around 5:15ish I think.
"What a day, eh, Milhouse? The sun is out, birds are singing,
bees are trying to have sex with them - as is my understanding..."

- Bart Simpson

"You are not Steve F-ing House."
- Best RockClimbing.com Rant Ever

www.AndyInTheRockies.com

CG_old

Postby CG_old » Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:45 pm

Andy wrote:
Chris Gerber wrote:I have and would climb with you again anyday, anytime...

Aaaah thanks. Has anyone invited you to this Sunday's festivities? The usual suspects should be departing Boulder around 5:15ish I think.


Yeah, Charles did, but unfortunately I'm oncall this weekend. Gotta stay where I can get to an Internet connection in two hours. Thanks though!

User avatar
Posts: 435
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Thu Nov 30, 2006 7:44 pm

You're gonna miss out Chris. I feel a successful ascent of Drift coming... Second attempt here I go!

Dan
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

PreviousNext

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests