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My #3 BD C4 works!

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My #3 BD C4 works!

Postby Andy » Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:15 am

So I met up with Dan the Mountain Man this weekend to do a little climbing at North Table Mountain (aka Golden Cliffs). We were there mostly for the sport climbing, but I also brought my trad rack because I remembered a 5.6 crack from my last visit that I wanted to lead. We tired ourselves out on the sport routes before ending up on the crack. After I lead it (barely and with horrible style... let's just say "hangdog" and "french free" would both be appropriate descriptors :oops:) I offered to let Dan have a go. I gave him a little instruction, loaded him with the rack, and he was off. This was his first trad lead and he cranked through it like a champ. About two thirds of the way up one of his hand jams slipped and he took a 6' foot fall on my #3 C4. Dan's perfect placement held and I managed to catch the fall. This was Dan's first trad lead, his first leader fall on trad gear, the first time anyone had ever fallen on any of my gear, and the first time I'd ever caught a leader fall. We all passed the test with flying colors!

Dan right before his fall:
Image
"What a day, eh, Milhouse? The sun is out, birds are singing,
bees are trying to have sex with them - as is my understanding..."

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Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:04 pm

Thanks for all of your help Andy! This was really a great learning experience, although I did not really plan to fall! Good to know that the gear works, and that you can hold those falls! Awesome job, we will have to climb again and gradually work on harder trad leads!

Dan
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

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Postby Andy » Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:10 pm

Dan the Mountain Man wrote:Thanks for all of your help Andy! This was really a great learning experience, although I did not really plan to fall! Good to know that the gear works, and that you can hold those falls! Awesome job, we will have to climb again and gradually work on harder trad leads!

It was a good time. I'm blaming my pitiful performance on fatigue. If we hadn't tired ourselves out by thrashing around on those other routes beforehand both of us probably would have been able to leading it without falling, hangdogging, etc. Either way it was eye-opening: I need to work on my endurance!
"What a day, eh, Milhouse? The sun is out, birds are singing,
bees are trying to have sex with them - as is my understanding..."

- Bart Simpson

"You are not Steve F-ing House."
- Best RockClimbing.com Rant Ever

www.AndyInTheRockies.com

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Postby CO Native » Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:44 pm

Nice, that should be a huge confidence boost now. It's nice to get confirmation that you've done everything right, but what a rush during the moment when you wonder if you did. Hope it didn't turn out to be a yellow-point. :oops:
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Postby rlw49 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:16 pm

Ok, dumb question. What does "trad" refer to? I see it all the time, but don't mingle in climbers circles.
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I probably saw you while driving to Central City.

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Postby jfox » Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:46 pm

rlw49 wrote:Ok, dumb question. What does "trad" refer to? I see it all the time, but don't mingle in climbers circles.
Thanks
I probably saw you while driving to Central City.


"Trad" means traditional climbing with the climber placing pro (protection) in cracks etc. with cams and nuts. Sport climbing is similar, but there are pre-drilled bolts in the rock to clip in to.


Andy, I woulda paid $$ to see a pic of Dan taking that whipper! Looks like y'all had a good time. I'd like to get back up there sometime soon.

J

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Postby Andy » Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:25 am

jfox8541 wrote:Andy, I woulda paid $$ to see a pic of Dan taking that whipper! Looks like y'all had a good time. I'd like to get back up there sometime soon.

I don't know if I would call Dan's fall a whipper. He was only about 3' feet above the #3 C4 so he only fell about 6'. Right before he fell Dan yelled out "Watch me!" or "I'm falling!" or "Oh s**t!" or something to that effect so I was frantically trying to pull in slack when he actually pealed off. I didn't really see the fall either. My wife was with us and she said it was thing of beauty - perfect form and very graceful. If nothing else, sport climbers are good at falling :wink:.
"What a day, eh, Milhouse? The sun is out, birds are singing,
bees are trying to have sex with them - as is my understanding..."

- Bart Simpson

"You are not Steve F-ing House."
- Best RockClimbing.com Rant Ever

www.AndyInTheRockies.com

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Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:22 am

...if nothing else, sport climbers are good at falling...


ouch! That hurt!

:D
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

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Postby mainpeak » Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:37 pm

Looks like a super fun climb! Good on Dan for his first trad lead being a 5.6, and setting pro well enough to hold a fall.

One thing I've noticed about climbing in CO is that people jump right out on their first lead at 5.6 and up. Pretty impressive. I worked my way up slowly from 5.3, and didn't take my first fall until 5.8 . Ofcourse, this was back in the Gunks and the ratings there seem to be pretty stiff compared with a lot of other climbing locations ( not necessarily around here, so don't anyone take offense)

Great to get that first fall out of the way though. Black Diamond rules.

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Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:35 pm

I'll second that. It was kind of nice to get it out of the way, although you should never fall! I guess doing being able 5.9-5.10b sport (sometimes lead, mostly on top rope) helped me significantly in technique and strength on the climb, although apparently I screwed up somewhere since I fell!

Black Diamond Does Rule!
Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki

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Postby Scott Rogers » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:15 pm

So here's my question, and I've been pondering this for a while...

What is the safest way, if any, to take a picture of someone while you are belaying them?

I'm sure there are many methods out there that you all might have, so enlighten me!

Oh and congratulations Dan on the lead... A fun, dangerous and expensive branch of climbing awaits you :D
We can't change the world, but we can change the way we live.

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Postby mainpeak » Wed Nov 29, 2006 12:20 am

Scott Rogers wrote:What is the safest way, if any, to take a picture of someone while you are belaying them?


Best method ( IMO) is to tie a mule knot. This is a must know for rescue, and most importantly, you can lock off the belay with one hand, while the other hand keeps the belay secure.

Having said that, I didn't see a description I liked in the top google results so I am not going to post any of them as link. There should be a good desctription in Freedom of the Hills, though, I am guessing.

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