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Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby dumbsocrates » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:24 am

rangerdrew wrote:Head up to the west ridge of Quandary, its vastly superior. I've done Kelso at night and in the winter. Some folks on this site did it at night this past winter, jerks. http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=7643&stext=kelso+night&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include 8) . Non-summer/daylight conditions make it much more fun.


That looks fantastic!

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby climbing_rob » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:34 am

NickJ wrote: Don't feel too bad. I first climbed it 15 years ago. I had been reading some trip reports earlier this summer about the knife edge, which I thought was interesting because I had no recollection whatsoever of any knife ridge from that early climb
Same deal here, except substitute "30" for "15"; I climbed this puppy many times before I ever even saw the knife edge, as the climbers trail years ago went to climbers-right around it (and this still exists for those who don't want to enjoy the knife edge).

This is what's so nice about the Kelso ridge; you can dial your own difficulty! There are many opportunities to enjoy high-3rd class, maybe even some solid 4th right smack on the ridge top, but the easiest route, easy to find, does indeed keep it to low-3rd and only in two short places.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby NickJ » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:45 am

climbing_rob wrote:
NickJ wrote: Don't feel too bad. I first climbed it 15 years ago. I had been reading some trip reports earlier this summer about the knife edge, which I thought was interesting because I had no recollection whatsoever of any knife ridge from that early climb
Same deal here, except substitute "30" for "15"; I climbed this puppy many times before I ever even saw the knife edge, as the climbers trail years ago went to climbers-right around it (and this still exists for those who don't want to enjoy the knife edge).

This is what's so nice about the Kelso ridge; you can dial your own difficulty! There are many opportunities to enjoy high-3rd class, maybe even some solid 4th right smack on the ridge top, but the easiest route, easy to find, does indeed keep it to low-3rd and only in two short places.


This must be what I did. I must have went around it. Frankly, my initial instinct when I encountered it this summer was not to go over it, as I thought it was awkward. If I hadn't been reading recent trip reports about it, I think I'd likely have found another route. I am certain that had I crossed the knife edge 15 years ago, I would have remembered. Thanks for the feedback

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby MtHurd » Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:12 am

There is a nice ridge on Democrat as well.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby zoriloco » Tue Sep 07, 2010 1:14 pm

had the chance to climb Kelso Ridge this past weekend and even though it is a bit short on the really fun parts I LOVED IT! But that whole idea of climbing it at night sounds twice as fun. We should totally plan a group climb for the next full moon ( September 23rd)

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby Rich H » Tue Sep 07, 2010 1:31 pm

at night is good...lots of goats out then.

Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby benners » Tue Sep 07, 2010 1:41 pm

Did you have to use your hands for any section of the ridge or is it likely that most people would need to? If so, then it's class 3. Even if there's only one class 3 section on the entire route the route gets a class 3 rating. Sorry you were disappointed, but I think Kelso is rated appropriately, even without the knife edge section. You can always go climb it in winter to make things more interesting!

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby HikerLance » Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:01 pm

I did Kelso for the first time last Friday. Was my first class 3 and my first solo climb. Enjoyed the route. Agree that there are definitely 2-3 sections that require hands, so class 3 it is. For me, the knife edge was not the crux. It is so short and so solid. A few of the other up-climbs over what I might call 'blind-tops' were what made me pucker! :oops:

L
"If you never did, you should. These things are fun, and fun is good." - Dr. Suess :)

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby Monster5 » Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:32 pm

I don't quite understand the purpose in complaining about a route because it isn't challenging enough. I've NEVER had a problem making a route more intense, fun, or harder. Route descriptions are meant to make gaining a summit easier - If you're looking for more excitement, all you have to do in some cases is move several feet left or right (where it doesn't leave an impact) on readily available solid rock.

Kelso Ridge is a class 3 route and a lot of the class 2 sections are simply highly eroded scrambling bypasses. I have older route descriptions/photos that show the trail goes OVER many of the sections where you can now just go around. You can make that entire route require hands. Simply stick to the rock. The exposure isn't bad and the climbing is fun, easy , and obvious. Either way, Kelso Ridge is a blast and offers plenty of options for you to safely challenge yourself. There's no need to take the class 2 bypasses/trails that are only there because people were looking for a way around an obstacle rather than enjoying the obstacle in the first place. Especially when the obstacle is only class 3, which is what most people choose the route for...
"The road to alpine climbing is pocked and poorly marked, ending at an unexpectedly closed gate 5 miles from the trailhead." - MP user Beckerich

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby habaceeba » Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:03 pm

It's unfortunate that we had to pour water on this thread again. I regretted posting this. It is stupid to complain about a route. I was merely disappointed because I missed the knife edge. Looking back, climbing up the knife edge (from climbers left) was probably more spectacular than the knife edge itself. It was at least class 4 and maybe even class 5 - hand & foot holds were scarce and only big enough for 2-3 fingers for 20+/- vertical with some serious exposure.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby screefieldstevie » Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:15 pm

I had a blast on Kelso Sunday.......it was my first Class 3 and I kept missing all the by-passes and just kept climbing rock after rock, one of my fav's to date.......but I'm just beginning to stick my toe into the water
"Cause the Rocky Mountain Way Is better than the way we had" - Joe Walsh

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