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Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

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Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby habaceeba » Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:21 pm

I suspect that the only reason this route is considered Class 3 is because of the knife edge. I wouldn't know. I found myself on the south side of the ridge unknowingly directly under the knife edge. I reached the white rock and had to climb up the knife edge some 15 feet to the top of the white rock. I was disappointed to see that I missed it, but I turned it into a Class 4 move. Gorgeous day to be out. Wouldn't change a thing.
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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby gdthomas » Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:27 pm

There's two class 3 pitches before the knife edge. Sounds like you missed them as well. Are you sure you were on Kelso Ridge? :shock:

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby habaceeba » Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:52 pm

gdthomas wrote:There's two class 3 pitches before the knife edge. Sounds like you missed them as well. Are you sure you were on Kelso Ridge? :shock:


No. I didn't miss them. They were so short that they could almost be considered 2+. Geez, if I was that off route I probably wouldn't have made it back.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby BAUMGARA » Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:06 pm

Well it's time for Capitol then.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby Cruiser » Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:09 pm

I took a few deep breaths at different points along Kelso Ridge. But I guess I'm a candy a$$...
Where ever you are... There you are.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby flintster » Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:12 pm

Hmmm, maybe my group was off route on the 2 occasions we were hanging over 100 ft cliffs....how the heck did you miss the knife edge? it's like right there.

I'm guessing you spent most of your time on the loose rubble on the north side of the ridge, and maybe missed most of "kelso ridge" all together? I'd go hit it again, it's a great little climb.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby Jim Davies » Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:16 pm

When you say "south", do you mean climber's left? On the north (right) side you can usually drop off the ridge a ways and cobble along on talus, if you wish, but the ridge crest itself is definitely class 3. Not the whole ridge, but there are a few places where it gets too hard to climb without hands for most people.

Or maybe you climbed Kelso Mountain by mistake. ;)
Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall — it's great when you stop. -- Chris Darwin

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby MtHurd » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:02 pm

Is class 3 supposed to be hard?

And if you missed the Knife Edge, you weren't looking to do anything difficult because it is right on the ridge, you can't miss it. You must have gone around it thinking it was too difficult.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby habaceeba » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:30 pm

I was on route for most of the way. I followed what I thought was a trail and apparently missed the climb up the ridge. I went climbers left of all of it. #-o I didn't mean to step on anyone's toes. It's a nice route and I will have to do it again.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby NickJ » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:41 pm

habaceeba wrote:I was on route for most of the way. I followed what I thought was a trail and apparently missed the climb up the ridge. I went climbers left of all of it. #-o I didn't mean to step on anyone's toes. It's a nice route and I will have to do it again.


Don't feel too bad. I first climbed it 15 years ago. I had been reading some trip reports earlier this summer about the knife edge, which I thought was interesting because I had no recollection whatsoever of any knife ridge from that early climb. So I decided to I climbed it again this summer with my stepson and, sure enough, encountered the knife ridge. I wonder if I missed it 15 years ago or just simply forgot. I agree it's tough to miss (but would also think it would be tough to forget).

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby Kapelmuur » Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:12 pm

I did Kelso on Sunday as a relative Class 3 noob. There was definitely more clambering up loose dirt slopes than I had expected but also several fun sections, 2-3 of which had some pucker-factor penalty involved including having to dodge a tumbling boulder at one point (that woke me up for sure) and the exit of the knife's edge rather than the edge itself. All-in-all, a good time had taking the path slightly less travelled.

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Re: Disappointed on Kelso Ridge

Postby rangerdrew » Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:16 pm

Head up to the west ridge of Quandary, its vastly superior. I've done Kelso at night and in the winter. Some folks on this site did it at night this past winter, jerks. http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=7643&stext=kelso+night&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include 8) . Non-summer/daylight conditions make it much more fun.
I don't commute by bicycle everyday out of goodwill for the environment. Although, it is a positive externality. ~rangerdrew

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