Climbing Dallas

[Vadim34]

Could anyone please let me know if Dallas peak could be safely summited without any ropes.We summited Teakettle and Coffepot without the ropes and I was wondering if Dallas is much harder.
Thanks for the information!
Vadim

[RobLowe]

Possible (with approach shoes or better) but the downclimb would not be fun. Super fun to rappel off the top, too. Having the security of a .75 cam on the way up also was nice.

[Vadim34]

I did use the rock climbing shoes on teakettle and of course planning on bringing them on Dallas,it's the rappel that Iam contemplating..I do agree with you that it's safer!

[TallGrass]

Sure it could. Alex Honold free-climbed El Cap, right? It's rated low class 5, so like many class 4, the trick is the downclimb. Unlike climbing at a crag, your legs will have done a long approach (think fatigue). Planning on hitting Dallas tomorrow (with twin rope for rapping and some pro) for any interested. Teakettle wouldn't be that bad a downclimb as it's short, but the "no fall" factor merits bring rope. If you go light then change your mind, the gear back at the TH is of little use.

[blazintoes]

The only place on Dallas that may require ropes is the final north face summit tower. These two photos are the final moves before the summit and could give you an idea as to the body posture while down climbing. I climbed Dallas without ropes last September and felt comfortable down climbing after a long summit break however, I wouldn't tell someone I don't know to go for it. A fall here would be fatal.

[snowypeaks]

All I really remember of Dallas a long time ago was that we arrived entirely unexpectedly at the summit, as we had been anticipating for some sort of crux to appear beforehand. We were actually a bit disappointed. Since we had the rope along, it was nice to rap down rather than climb down. Have fun!

[Wildernessjane]

I thought the rappel off the summit block was super fun and worth carrying a rope for. Also, we had heavy rains the night before and everything was just a little wet so I was happy to have the extra protection of a rope.

[Vadim34]

As always,thank you guys for the information!! Iam at 93 centennials,and really enjoying these beautiful peaks with Dallas being one of the hardest.
Those pictures are very helpful too,thank you.

[mattpayne11]

I agree, I think you could do it without ropes, but downclimbing would be really scary, IMO. The rap from the top is one of the most fun things I've ever done in my life.

[uwe]

Why do you not want to bring rope?
True, you can climb, descend without rope.
I've climbed it 3x and our teams, (of 4) used rope for executing a top belay and rappel.
On one of these climbs, a couple jumped in front of us as we were setting up for our summit block push and climbed in their approach shoes.
They used a rope to rappel off the block.

You increase risk without rope. Why do that?

[TallGrass]

Just did Dallas (Monday) with Wineguy. There are at least 4 places you could need rope and at least 3 slings on the peak ("4th class" section, off summit, notch E of summit). We roped up to climb a flaky NE side with a protruding block and roof to duck around (PITA with a pack on) that finishes between the cairn and rap block. Reclimbed from inside the chock rock chimney trying to free rope. We never found the slope nor N side route, but clouds, fog, and graupel made for a cold wet decent until we got below the clouds. Beta had some things we never pieced together.

[Vadim34]

Thanks for the beta,I do agree about the rope and the rappel off the summit,don't have much experience using ropes however..maybe a lesson from the pros will be in a plan and then will give it a shot soon!!
P.S. Matt,really enjoying your web site since you have told me about it last year when I met you on Clinton,too bad your now in Oregon.