Guyot Conditions

[TravelingMatt]

Not much has changed

[PaliKona]

I was on the lake today and couldn't believe the coverage on Guyot, Bald, and the Ten Mile Range, for this time of year. Really beautiful. Even Keystone looks skiable ;p

[AlexeyD]

Thanks all! Condition report as of yesterday added: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatu ... ecnum=4563" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[AFDusmc]

Has anyone been up the east ridge recently? Any beta on the trailhead and conditions?

[susanjoypaul]

I have not been up there lately, but I would not recommend the east ridge in snow.

I soloed it in snow a couple of years ago and it ranks up there with one of the dumbest things I've ever done on a peak. Here are my notes from that day:

Mount Guyot from Georgia Pass is a summer route, and should not be attempted under snow. The danger appears just below the summit, where the ridge narrows, rises abruptly, and takes a sudden turn to the northwest. This final section forces you onto a steep snow slab over a sheer and rocky north face, where a slip would likely be fatal. Unfortunately, this final section is not obvious until you are nearly at the top, with the summit cairn in view. The steep, loose jumble of rocks that make up the east ridge of Mount Guyot provide plenty of excitement and challenges on the driest of sunny, summer days. If you prefer to do the peak in snow, a winter route exists from a northwest side, at Breckenridge.

I made it up and down without incident, but I would never, ever try it again. I have a bunch of photos and a video from that day around here somewhere.

-Susan

[Jay521]

I agree with Susan. I tried the same route several years ago in snow conditions. I didn't have the guts to do the final section as Susan did and I just turned around and went back down from that spot. Going up via French Gulch is a MUCH more sensible way up Guyot in snow in my opinion.

The east ridge is a great summer route that I've done multiple times and even did a TR on some years back....
http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=10451" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
but it's one I will avoid in snow conditions.

[susanjoypaul]

I agree with Susan. I tried the same route several years ago in snow conditions. I didn't have the guts to do the final section as Susan did and I just turned around and went back down from that spot.

Not so much guts as pure stupidity!

Here are a few pics from that day, which was back in October 2013. They do not do the danger justice, as I clearly recall talking myself into the last bit, and then spending just a few moments on the summit and heading straight back down before I lost my nerve: Mount Guyot

There's probably a lot more snow up there now, and a bigger slab on that north side, making it even sketchier.

-Susan

[AlexeyD]

Just as an additional note, it's not as if the French Gulch route should be considered entirely avy-safe in current conditions either. We saw numerous slides off the steep slopes on climber's right of the main gully, and witnessed a skier trigger some small point releases while traversing one of the steeper slopes. I would definitely stick to the lowest-angle line possible (i.e. the middle/bottom of the gully), and make sure you're off the mountain well before noon. As many have been saying, conditions are funky out there, be careful!

[Jay521]

Not so much guts as pure stupidity!

Susan - I think we both know there's a fine line between the two, eh? Your pictures brought back lots of memories.

And, I also agree whole-heartedly with Alex. Conditions are sketchy all over the place. Be careful out there!

[Big Schwimm]

Anyone know about how many miles you can drive past Michigan Creek Campground toward Georgia Pass???

[TravelingMatt]

Slow progress

[TravelingMatt]

Weekend warriors, here ya go