Mt Tolls from Blue Lake, New guy question

[Willburr]

Hi all,

Not sure if this is the right subforum for this, but here goes.....!

I'm looking to climb some snow before I have to leave this beautiful state, and I'm aware that most of it is gone. I've been spending some time out towards the Indian Peaks area, and had sort of set my sights on the very large and obvious snow slope heading up the East side of the mountain to just below the summit. I've never climbed snow (atleast not in a serious fashion like this....!) and I figured that I should probe around some before plunging into something stupid. I've done research and planned and researched and planned some more, but without a second opinion I refuse to attempt this in haste!

Anyways, as a rough outline, I simply planned on hiking up to blue lake, scrambling up the bowl above the lake, finding a way to cross the stream that feeds blue lake, and then proceeding up the various ledges and slopes to the big snow field up to the top. If I could get literally ANY information from you guys (like "you're stupid, don't do this" or "We're doing that this weekend, want to come?" and everything in between!) it would be seriously appreciated. I'd be happy to discuss every and any aspects of this, and I'm very open to, like I said, ANYTHING you all could tell me!

Thanks again, from an aspiring climber who'd like to keep on doing this safely for a long, long time!
Will

[AlexeyD]

Hi all,

Not sure if this is the right subforum for this, but here goes.....!

I'm looking to climb some snow before I have to leave this beautiful state, and I'm aware that most of it is gone. I've been spending some time out towards the Indian Peaks area, and had sort of set my sights on the very large and obvious snow slope heading up the East side of the mountain to just below the summit. I've never climbed snow (atleast not in a serious fashion like this....!) and I figured that I should probe around some before plunging into something stupid. I've done research and planned and researched and planned some more, but without a second opinion I refuse to attempt this in haste!

Anyways, as a rough outline, I simply planned on hiking up to blue lake, scrambling up the bowl above the lake, finding a way to cross the stream that feeds blue lake, and then proceeding up the various ledges and slopes to the big snow field up to the top. If I could get literally ANY information from you guys (like "you're stupid, don't do this" or "We're doing that this weekend, want to come?" and everything in between!) it would be seriously appreciated. I'd be happy to discuss every and any aspects of this, and I'm very open to, like I said, ANYTHING you all could tell me! Thanks again, from an aspiring climber who'd like to keep on doing this safely for a long, long time!
Will

Well...in all technicality Toll is ALMOST a 13er, but not quite...not that these things matter to me personally, but just saying

Regarding the route you're proposing, I haven't done it, but have also looked at it a number of times. Pretty sure something close to it is described here: http://www.summitpost.org/blue-lake-sou ... ace/157620" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I will say that the snowfield in question is no longer continuous all the way to the summit, so you would either have to scramble on talus (possibly loose 3rd class?) or, alternatively, traverse to the left onto the regular 2nd class south ridge route.

[ajkagy]

Snow is probably not great from what still remains up there, but in June it's simply sublime and a really great ski descent not to mention an awesome view into the west side of the indian peaks

http://www.summitpost.org/blue-lake-sou ... ace/157620" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Willburr]

Thanks for the responses guys!

Alexey, if they'd put up a 12ers section I'd have posted there!

Other than that, I'm positive the snow no longer continues to the summit, I snapped some photos from blue lake when I wandered out there the other day and it's easily a few hundred feet of rock to the top. None of that deters me, I'm fine with sticking the axe away and I'm pretty stable on rocks. I'm not really looking for a world class snow climb, just a slope up a mountain that I'll enjoy.

Ajkagy, maybe some day I'll nab a ski decent, but this years looking like it'll be a walk off! I've caught the view from Audubon (Good god is it pretty up there) but I'd love to see past that ridge and off into the expanse. Thanks again for the responses!


Another question if you'd all be so kind....! This one pertains to snow, I've read/asked/heard that late summer snow pack is pretty damn stable, and as long as I hit it early in the morning I shouldn't have an awful lot of trouble. Any thoughts on this? Avalanches are not something I'd like to throw caution to the wind with!

[Greenhouseguy]

I made a loop hike of it by hiking the Pawnee Pass Trail from the Long Lake trailhead and going over Pawnee to Toll. Then I descended to Blue Lake, followed the trail to the Mitchell Lake TH, and walked the road back to the Long Lake TH. The wildflowers should be great on the slopes above Blue Lake. Wear gaiters and wax your boots, because you're likely to pass through some marshy terrain.

[AlexeyD]

Thanks for the responses guys!

Alexey, if they'd put up a 12ers section I'd have posted there!

I think for 12ers, the correct place would be here:
http://14ers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=24" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Again, not that it matters to me, just mentioning it for the way this forum seems to be structured.

Another question if you'd all be so kind....! This one pertains to snow, I've read/asked/heard that late summer snow pack is pretty damn stable, and as long as I hit it early in the morning I shouldn't have an awful lot of trouble. Any thoughts on this? Avalanches are not something I'd like to throw caution to the wind with!

Avalanches generally stop being a concern starting around mid-June, so I definitely wouldn't worry about that. That said, very soft snow, while easy to climb and may feel safe, is hard to get purchase with crampons, and is not ideal for steep ascents. On the other hand, the very firm snow of early morning can make self-arrest difficult. In general, though, I'd say your plan is a good one. Going up firmer snow and down softer snow seems to be a good formula, also helps in terms of avoiding the PM thunderstorms.

[Broken Knee]

I simply planned on hiking up to blue lake, scrambling up the bowl above the lake, finding a way to cross the stream that feeds blue lake, and then proceeding up the various ledges and slopes to the big snow field up to the top.

My son wanted to learn mountaineering skills a few years ago and we did this route in late June. It was a blast. Very straightforward. Not sure what conditions to expect now. Probably pretty melted out.

[Willburr]

I think for 12ers, the correct place would be here:
viewforum.php?f=24

Again, not that it matters to me, just mentioning it for the way this forum seems to be structured.

And so, my glaring ignorance shines brightly yet again. If someone with administrative abilities on the site would be so kind as to correct my mistake, I'd appreciate it!



And again, thank you guys a million for the information and resources posted here, especially with the speed at which you guys were able to assist me! I'm slowly beginning to feel better and better about attempting this, with a possibility of getting out there this weekend. I'll be sure to post and let you all know how it goes!

Thanks again, and again, and a thousand times more, plus one for good luck,
Will

[Ericds84]

I did something similar to this last weekend.

I actually descended to the east basin from Paiute and contoured around to the Toll/Pawnee saddle because I wasn't comfortable soloing the class 3+ ridge traverse to Toll. Yes, there was snow, and it was surprisingly stiff for August, but I just kicked steps with my boots. The runout was pretty safe, where if you did slip you'd stop in a snowy depression, not on rocks. But as a first timer I would suggest carrying Microspikes. Crampons would be overkill.

The other thing is that your most direct line from Blue Lake will not take you over very much snow. There's a fair amount of scrambling and routefinding up past the lake, as there's lots of rock shelves/boulders that you'll have to scramble around. You may get cliffed out & have to backtrack. I would bring good boots and gaiters, because the whole area is swampy and riddled with little streams. You'll reach a broad shelf/bowl more or less due west of the blue lake's southern shore and from here climb 400' max of snow to reach the saddle. From there it's just scrambling on talus to the top of Toll.

[ajkagy]

I made a loop hike of it by hiking the Pawnee Pass Trail from the Long Lake trailhead and going over Pawnee to Toll. Then I descended to Blue Lake, followed the trail to the Mitchell Lake TH, and walked the road back to the Long Lake TH. The wildflowers should be great on the slopes above Blue Lake. Wear gaiters and wax your boots, because you're likely to pass through some marshy terrain.

a nice variation of this with scrambling is go up the pawnee east ridge, up to pawnee then over to toll and back down, there's just 1 class 4ish downclimb on the east ridge, but most of it is only class 2/3

[Willburr]

Hey guys, figured I'd follow up.

Left for Blue Lake after waking up early, but got slowed down by some group members. Wound up getting there a bit later than intended, but set off for Tolls alone by the trail that takes you around the North shore of the lake, traversed a neat patch of snow that would make a fun slide into the lake for you members of the polar bear club if there aren't rocks down there. Carried on following cairns up and beyond before setting off past the second lake (No name on the map, marked at 11,833') Sought durable surface and rocks across a stream and snow field, scrambled around on some ledges and slabby parts, then found talus/small boulders to walk to the first snow field. Axe and crampons donned (crampons were debatable in their usefulness at this point in the day, but I'd say they helped versus trying to kick the hard sub-layer beneath the slush) I set off for the top of the snow field, traversed once I found soft enough snow for the axe to be plunged and approached the first real ramp upwards.

Lo, the previous delays were now exacting their price. A storm (or what was about to be one) was in the valley, and apparently growing and moving my way. I peaked around the corner, cursed a little, and then started heading back double time. A little bit of creative route finding brought me back to the trail and back to the higher, then lower lake where we set off (our slow partner now having sped up exponentially!) Returned home safe and dry.

Thanks again for all your tremendous help, I didn't make it far, but it was an experience I'll never forget. Can't wait to get back and try again!