Forum
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...

What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Colorado 13er questions, conditions, and other info should be posted here. Also includes topics related to 13ers.com. 13er Trip Reports
User avatar
Posts: 770
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:30 am
Location: Fort Collins

What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby 12ersRule » Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:59 pm

What do you think the top 10 toughest ranked 13ers are? How about the top 10 toughest 12ers?

The only data I can easily figure out how to get is the class 5 peaks.

Per LoJ there are 7 ranked class 5 13ers: Dallas, TeaKettle, Jagged, Peak 15, Coxcomb, Lizard Head, and Whitney. I know that Whitney is not in the top 10 since it's just the summit block.
Do the other 6 belong in the top 10? What else belongs here?

For the 12ers LoJ also shows 7 ranked class 5: pt12740, Sharkstooth, 12500, Silver Plume, Twin Peaks, McReynolds, Turret Ridge. Definitely scratch Silver Plume off the top 10 toughest list. I've been on several 12ers that are tougher. How about the other 6? What else?

Thanks. Greatly appreciate it!!

User avatar
Posts: 5180
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:46 am
Location: Craig

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby Scott P » Thu Dec 05, 2013 1:13 pm

If interested, here is a cut and paste from an email sent to be my Gerry Roach back in 2006:

CO's hardest peak over 13,000 is Lizard Head, which requires 5.8/5.9 climbing.
Hardest over 12,000 is either Twin Peaks or Turrett Ridge at 5.9/5.9+.


That should solve which ones are #1 or #2, but maybe you already knew that though.

Sometimes overall difficulty can be more than the hardest move. Thunder Pyramid, for example, isn't very technical, but it is considered to be nasty because of loose rock.

Good question though. It will be interesting to hear from those who have climbed them all.
I'm slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.

User avatar
Posts: 770
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:30 am
Location: Fort Collins

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby 12ersRule » Thu Dec 05, 2013 2:03 pm

Thanks Scott! Not that I have any designs on climbing them all (13ers or 12ers), but discussions like this always seem to help uncover some gems out there.

User avatar
Posts: 600
Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 12:58 pm
Location: Boulder, CO

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby SarahT » Thu Dec 05, 2013 3:25 pm

Without putting a ton of thought into it, here is my toughest 13er list. This is taking into account a combination of overall technical difficulty and danger/scare factor due to loose rock, not how long the approach is. With some discussion I could probably be swayed on a few of them...

In no particular order: Dallas, Jagged, Peak Fifteen, Coxcomb, Lizard Head, Peak Nine, Peak L, "V10", "P2", & South Lookout. Runners up/honorable mention: Teakettle, Pilot Knob, UN 13017 by Rio Grande Pyramid, El Punto, UN 13222 by El Punto & Peak Q.
Die Zeit ist unendlich lang und ein jeder Tag ein Gefäß, in das sich sehr viel eingießen lässt, wenn man es wirklich ausfüllen will.... Goethe
http://www.13ergirl.com/

User avatar
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby ptyrg » Thu Dec 05, 2013 3:31 pm

Tough? How about Vestal peak?

An 11er? Catamount peak...Lost Creek Couple hundred feet of fourth/5.0/5.2 all kinda the same. The summit register has been up there since 1988.

User avatar
Posts: 2162
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:16 am
Location: Broomfield, Colorado

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby d_baker » Thu Dec 05, 2013 3:36 pm

Sarah, is 13,222 in the Cimarrons/Big Blue?
I see on 13ers.com that there's an A & B for 13,222'.

Curious as to why you place Pk L in the top 10? Kind of nice to hear that since you placed El Punto in the runner up list.

User avatar
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 4:41 pm
Location: Los Alamos, NM

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby spadflyer12 » Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:31 pm

This sounds like a good thread to turn into a climbing itinerary for next summer.

Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 2:31 pm

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby WSN » Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:41 pm

Is "Sunlight Spire" considered a peak?

User avatar
Posts: 5180
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:46 am
Location: Craig

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby Scott P » Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:47 pm

Is "Sunlight Spire" considered a peak?


Yes, but not a "ranked" peak.
I'm slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.

User avatar
Posts: 1086
Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 12:57 pm
Location: Littleton, CO

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby climbing_rob » Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:37 pm

ptyrg wrote:Tough? How about Vestal peak?

An 11er? Catamount peak...Lost Creek Couple hundred feet of fourth/5.0/5.2 all kinda the same. The summit register has been up there since 1988.
Both of these have class-3 routes to the top. I think some argue Vestal is only class 2. I'd say 2.5. MUCH for fun climbing it via. Wham, though. I just repeated Catamount... I love that peak. The "standard" route on summitpost is class 5, but if you just boogie around to the south side there are easy ramps to the summit, one class 3 move near the top. It is tough to get to the south face, I've only been able to wrap all the way around the north then west sides to get there.

User avatar
Posts: 5180
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:46 am
Location: Craig

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby Scott P » Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:56 pm

An 11er?


I'm not sure, but Chimney Rock may be the toughest 11er?
I'm slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.

Posts: 49
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:46 am

Re: What are the top 10 toughest 13ers/12ers?

Postby Teresa Gergen » Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:25 pm

Chimney Rock is CO's hardest ranked 11er by its easiest route. Squaretop is the only other technical ranked 11er. I believe Class 4 routes have been found now on the harder LCW ranked 11ers. There are a lot more low-elevation technical ranked peaks than 12ers and above.

Turret Ridge is considerably harder and more difficult to protect than either Lizard Head or Twin Peaks.

Eagle Mtn (12007) is at most Class 3+/4, but the summit block is quite dangerous and difficult to protect.

"Dragons Back" is probably only Class 4, but people often prefer a rope at least on the descent, and there are rap slings in several spots.

Next

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests