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Mount Meeker Questions

Colorado 13er questions, conditions, and other info should be posted here. Also includes topics related to 13ers.com. 13er Trip Reports
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Re: Mount Meeker Questions

Postby Kiefer » Fri Nov 15, 2013 10:31 am

I think I may be an exception here. I wasn't impressed with Iron Gates.
Problem was, we went expecting a snow climb. It is after all, a sheltered, north facing climb.

It was a dry, scree/talus-fest instead. No stability, loose and frustrating. However, the views from the upper ridge
were incredible! But....in order to reach Meeker's summit, there is a knife ridge (I took the picture in March) you have to cross.
It's MUCH shorter than Capitol's knife ridge but I thought it was more intense. It's ALL slab granite. High exposure.
But I have to side with Fire on this one. Going DOWN the Loft Route is going to be WAY better than going UP that mess.
I'll never go up the Loft route again in dry conditions.

So I think it's kind of a toss up. If you're comfortable with exposure and slabs, ascend the Iron Gates Route (not as much scree to deal with)
and descend the Loft (way more scree to deal with). You can plunge-step through the sugar and scree.

Keplingers....LONG ROUTE. Expect to start 0-dark thirty and get back to the car after dark (this time of year). Tricky route-finding in the trees the closer to
Sandbeach Lake you get. But WONDERFUL for solitude!
"Wisdom comes from making mistakes.
Experience, is the knowledge of knowing what to do when one makes a mistake and wisdom,
stems from the changes we go through while learning from those mistakes."

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Re: Mount Meeker Questions

Postby justiner » Fri Nov 15, 2013 11:46 am

Kiefer wrote:But....in order to reach Meeker's summit, there is a knife ridge (I took the picture in March) you have to cross.


You say that, like it's a bad thing ;)

Kiefer wrote:Keplingers....LONG ROUTE. Expect to start 0-dark thirty and get back to the car after dark (this time of year). Tricky route-finding in the trees the closer to
Sandbeach Lake you get. But WONDERFUL for solitude!


Given your experience, is that route doable around this time of year? I've only seen it full of snow, so I don't know what it looks like without snow/with such a thin layer of snow.
The Long Ranger | STRAVA

"Any effort that has self-glorification as its final endpoint is bound to end in disaster" - Pirsig

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Re: Mount Meeker Questions

Postby goingup » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:00 pm

Not to sound like a d**k but I am pretty new to scrambling and I didn't think that knife edge was that big of a deal. I actually thought there were more intense parts before and after the knife edge. It is totally do able unless you have some horrible fear of heights. Also depending on how you pick your line up the Iron Gates some of the loose scree/talus can be avoided. As well it is over really quickly. Both my partner and I made mention of how quickly we gained the ridge.
There is a pleasure in the pathless woods;
There is a rapture on the lonely shore;
There is society, where no one intrudes,
By the deep sea, and music in its roar:
I love not man the less, but Nature more......

Re: Mount Meeker Questions

Postby Somewhat of a Prick » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:01 pm

goingup wrote:I actually thought there were more intense parts before and after the knife edge.


Sounds like Capitol.

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