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Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Colorado 13er questions, conditions, and other info should be posted here. Also includes topics related to 13ers.com. 13er Trip Reports
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Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Kevin Baker » Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:07 am

I am looking for a partner to join me for centennial Jagged in the Weminuche next week, arguably the toughest of the top 100. My partners had to bail and I already have my train ticket. The pace will be moderate, but I try to move efficiently and don't take many breaks. You should be very comfortable with exposure and being safe on loose rock.

The plan is to pack in to Jagged Cabin after riding the train Wed morning the 15th. Thurs will be Knife Point/Peak 5 and 6 while packing in the rest of the way. Fri is Jagged and maybe Leviathan and Vallecito if the weather holds. Sat is a weather day or 13ers I didn't get, perhaps Peak 4 and The Hesisspitz. Pack out on Sun in time to catch the train. I still plan on going through with the trip solo if necesssary, but it would be nice to have another set of eyes for the routefinding.

Kevin
Always do what you are afraid to do. -Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Chicago Transplant » Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:55 am

Kevin, good luck in getting partners! We were just there last week, climbed it last Tuesday. Working on a TR that will hopefully be up before you leave next week.

The lowest crux was wet when we were there, we ended up going up a different way that was harder, maybe 5.4/5? All three cruxes were surprisingly difficult, the highest crux (the technically hardest one in the book) was actually the easiest to protect and felt the safest.

Even if you do end up solo, I would still bring the rope to rap off the cruxes, they would not be something anyone in our group would have liked to downclimb. Also the final class 3 chimney felt like 4 to us at the top, but was not exposed.

Overall the mountain is more difficult than any of us thought it would be, you have to be "on" mentally the entire time once you start up the lowest crux, the class 2+ ledges are exposed and have plenty of loose dirt to keep you on your toes! Be safe and have fun, its a great mountain, and we all felt the hardest of the "big 3" centennials.
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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby MtHurd » Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:01 am

Too bad I can't go. It rained the morning I was to climb it. The rock was too wet to be safe. It's impossible to know how much traction you have on the wet surface with ball bearning like rock intermixed.

So ChicagoTransplant, was the view the best? I did one wet muddy pitch (off-route) so I didn't get to see the summit view. Maybe your pitch was the same one I tried. To the right of the correct route. If you found a rap sling at the top of a muddy chimney, it's probably mine. :-)

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Papillon » Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:39 am

Come on now, shknbke, I'm expecting you to deliver on this. :)

I thought we were home free when we got to the notch, nothing left but a little class 3. But it was the most exposed terrain I have been on. I counted five mini-cruxes beyond the notch, moves I was concerned about on the summit the entire time. They were/are:

2 wickedly exposed ledges with kitty litter on top and a bulge to make things interesting
1 steparound/stepover
1 3+/4 chimney that has a loose rock wedged in at the top (it was more difficult getting into it on the way down then going up) <----- easiest/safest of the five
1 reach-step (I had to use all 5'8" to get my foot on the lip of rock)
The look in his eyes when it hit - Kid, it was tasty... - William Seward Burroughs

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Kevin Baker » Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:02 pm

Good info to know, guys. I've heard varying opinions on Jagged. Some say it's over-hyped, others not so much. I guess it depends on how much wet rock you find. Looking forward to the TR Mike and congrats, guys! I will have a 35M rope for sure. No way would I downclimb it all! :shock:
Always do what you are afraid to do. -Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby MtHurd » Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:34 pm

Kevin Baker wrote:Good info to know, guys. I've heard varying opinions on Jagged. Some say it's over-hyped, others not so much. I guess it depends on how much wet rock you find. Looking forward to the TR Mike and congrats, guys! I will have a 35M rope for sure. No way would I downclimb it all! :shock:


I'd suggest a 70 m 8mm twin. I believe I read that the raps are a bit longer than 17.5 meters. Maybe I'm wrong. Mike?

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby climbing_rob » Thu Aug 09, 2012 2:00 pm

FWIW Kevin, I've climbed it twice, once very recently and both times I personally did not use a rope on the way up, though we did belay one or two members of our party in two places, what Roach calls the two cruxes.

Papillon has a good summary of the route beyond the notch, though the worst step-around has an alternate, non-exposed route to climbers left. When you get to a very exposed step-around, back up 20', climb left maybe 15' and look for a little mini-slot back to the main route beyond the step-around. I thought the chimney, though bordering on class 4 was fairly easy because it's "safe" and not at all exposed. I remember nothing loose at the top. The step-across near the summit does get the attention of shorter folks, though at over 6' I easily stepped across.

Anyway, yes, we had two 30's for a couple of raps on the way down, we really only needed the second 30 for the lowest rap, which could be broken up into two if you really only want to carry one 30. Or take one 30M with a 30M lightweight pull cord ( I have a 1-pound, 30M pull cord) and single strand it, if you know how to safely set this up (and I think you do).

Good luck and have fun! Certainly and easily this was my favorite of the high 100, including the 14ers.

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Chicago Transplant » Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:07 pm

The upper 2 cruxes we had a lot of left over rope, you could probably get away with the 30m there. The lowest crux was a longer rap, but you can probably downclimb the bottom half after you get over a stiff headwall that we upclimbed a class 4, from the base of that you can downclimb 2+/3 to the couloir side of the slabs below you and "walk off". You might be able to get away with a 30m this way, but as we had a 60m, we weren't really measuring whether a 30 would work or not.

The views are quite special indeed Barry! Although the problem with the views from Jagged is Jagged isn't in them, I thought the views from Knife Point and Leviathan were better, Jagged front and center :D

We might have done your ascent, the rap anchor for the first crux was directly above our route. There was a wet chimney that let us to a wet muddy section then 20-30 feet of low 5 that was easy to follow, but I would have had a hard time committing to it on lead. I tend to be a little flaky leading things I haven't climbed before but after I follow I tend to think I could have. Leading is still a mental game for me!
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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Boggy B » Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:02 pm

I'm quite Jagged but unfortunately the dates don't work for me.

Looks like a sweet trip! :envious:

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby Matt Lemke » Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:58 pm

PM'd
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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby sue personett » Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:25 pm

Dear Kevin,
Check you PM's.
Namaste
Sue

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Re: Looking for Jagged partner-Aug 17

Postby MtHurd » Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:06 pm

Wow, might have been the exact chimney I was in. At the top I tried to traverse over (left/east) to get to the proper route but it was unprotectable. Easy but one slip and that would have been all she wrote (either that or a huge pendulum until I smacked). So I rapped back down.

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