Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

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Wyoming Bob
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Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by Wyoming Bob »

I am going to be in Chicago Basin in a few weeks to accompany my climbing partner on his 14'er finisher . . . Windom.

Then its off to seek Centennials for my benefit and Jagged is one of the last on the list. Does anyone have any insight as to approaching Jagged from Twin Thumbs? Looking for wisdom from a been there and done that perspective.

Thanks,

Bob
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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by ClimbingCooneys »

If you choose to go through Twin Thumbs Pass, you'll have to descend over 2000 ft to the floor of Noname, then hike back up on a trail toward Knife Point and another SE fork of Noname. You can then steeply ascend a pass between Knife Point and Peak Ten, and then circle around to the north side of Jagged - a considerable amount of work, especially with a full pack. Personally, I would go into the upper Chicago basin & Twin Lakes and hike east toward a pass just north of Windom. That pass is fairly rocky on the east side but could drop you down to Sunlight Lake and then a little further down from the lake, you can gain the draiange that leads up to the north slopes of Jagged. There's a fine little camping area at the foot of Jagged near the upper lake just NE of the summit. I have personally travelled this route and would think it easier than the Twin Thumbs suggestion. Sunlight Lake is an outstanding place with some good sites near the lake and about a half mile below in the trees. There are some small lakes also near the foot of Knife Point that are rife with trout. Since major avalanche debris blocked the trail into Sunlight Lake from the Vallecito approach a few years ago, I imagine this area has become even more isolated and unvisited except for the most dedicated peakbaggers. Good luck & weather for whatever you choose.
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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by MtHurd »

I've never done it but I did take a picture of the pass between Sunlight and Needle Ridge which then descends down into Noname Basin. The second pic is the same pic, I just cropped it in Photoshop. Maybe it will give you an idea of what the pass would look like. Looks doable but loose. Knife Point on left in non-cropped photo and Sulight at right. Based on this, ClimbingCooney's recommendation sounds better.
SunlightNeedleRidgePass.jpg
SunlightNeedleRidgePass.jpg (111.61 KiB) Viewed 1332 times
SunlightNeedleRidgePassZoom.jpg
SunlightNeedleRidgePassZoom.jpg (79.6 KiB) Viewed 1332 times
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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by Wyoming Bob »

Thank you both for your input and the photos. It's back to the 7.5 Quads and eyeballing of routes. In a couple of weeks I'll make sure to post the results of our effort for others who may be interested. Again, I appreciate your ideas!

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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by climbing_rob »

ClimbingCooneys wrote:If you choose to go through Twin Thumbs Pass, you'll have to descend over 2000 ft to the floor of Noname, then hike back up on a trail toward Knife Point and another SE fork of Noname. You can then steeply ascend a pass between Knife Point and Peak Ten, and then circle around to the north side of Jagged - a considerable amount of work, especially with a full pack..
Not sure what all of this is about, but I've done the twin-thumbs thing a couple of times from Chi-basin to points north, and just recently climbed Jagged. Twin thumbs pass goes easily, then you simply drop (yes, 2000') into Noname and catch the standard trail up to Jagged pass (with no need to lose any more elevation from there to the summit). The other route suggested would probably work as well, but a quick TOPO route check shows both routes have the same overall elevation gain/loss. You don't drop quite as low with the sunlight lake route, but the pass to get there N. of Windom is higher. Same mileage too. So having done the twin-thumbs and not the other route, my suggestion is twin thumbs. That basin around sunlight lakes is spectacular though, we camped near there the first time I climbed Jagged, coming in from Bear Town.

I have route and waypoint info if this would help. This last trip (3 weeks ago), we found an outstanding camp spot in Noname right along the standard Jagged route at about 11,900', up on a rock outcropping, small clump of trees, magnificent views in all directions.
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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by MtHurd »

climbing_rob wrote:
ClimbingCooneys wrote:If you choose to go through Twin Thumbs Pass, you'll have to descend over 2000 ft to the floor of Noname, then hike back up on a trail toward Knife Point and another SE fork of Noname. You can then steeply ascend a pass between Knife Point and Peak Ten, and then circle around to the north side of Jagged - a considerable amount of work, especially with a full pack..
Not sure what all of this is about, but I've done the twin-thumbs thing a couple of times from Chi-basin to points north, and just recently climbed Jagged. Twin thumbs pass goes easily, then you simply drop (yes, 2000') into Noname and catch the standard trail up to Jagged pass (with no need to lose any more elevation from there to the summit). The other route suggested would probably work as well, but a quick TOPO route check shows both routes have the same overall elevation gain/loss. You don't drop quite as low with the sunlight lake route, but the pass to get there N. of Windom is higher. Same mileage too. So having done the twin-thumbs and not the other route, my suggestion is twin thumbs. That basin around sunlight lakes is spectacular though, we camped near there the first time I climbed Jagged, coming in from Bear Town.

I have route and waypoint info if this would help. This last trip (3 weeks ago), we found an outstanding camp spot in Noname right along the standard Jagged route at about 11,900', up on a rock outcropping, small clump of trees, magnificent views in all directions.
I guess Twin Thumbs pass is not pictured in my photo? On the other side of Needle Ridge?
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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by Presto »

by Barry Raven » Wed Jul 25, 2012 11:27 am

I guess Twin Thumbs pass is not pictured in my photo? On the other side of Needle Ridge?
Correctum ... Twin Thumbs Pass is the next one to the right of the one that you show in your photo.
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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Re: Twin Thumbs Pass approach to Jagged?

Post by Presto »

Here's a photo that shows "your pass" on the left and "Twin Thumbs Pass" on the right. Happy trails! :D
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As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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