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Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

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Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

Postby Dave B » Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:39 am

Has anyone done, or have information on, the traverse between Paiute and Algonquin?

The attached picture makes it look like a pretty good down climb from the summit of Paiute to the ridge line, but there could also be an easier way. A Upper Coney Lake traverse (Audubon-> Paiute-> "Algonquin" ->Coney Island) sounds pretty fun actually. Maybe counter clock-wise would be best actually.
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Re: Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

Postby ajkagy » Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:55 pm

bump on this. While I've been up on paiute several times I don't have any beta on the connecting ridge to the north. I always thought the connecting ridge off to the west over to thunderbolt looked enticing as well. Both ridges are pretty minimally traveled
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Re: Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

Postby Derek » Wed Jul 04, 2012 4:40 pm

No info from me, sorry, but I am very interested as well. For some reason, I had always assumed that it was not a good route between the two, but I dont recall if that was just from looking at a map or from something that I had read...maybe on 14erWorld or something? My plan for this year is head out straight from Sawtooth Mountain to grab Algonquin. After getting a good look at the east slopes of Pt12155 this April (the point between Algonquin and Sawtooth), descending these slopes look very doable and would prevent a resummit of Sawtooth. The slopes would leave you in the saddle between Coney Island and Algonquin.

East slopes of Pt12155:
Image

Regardless, finding out the traverse between Paiute and Algonquin is possible would probably make me change my mind. Hopefully someone chimes in.

ajkagy wrote:I always thought the connecting ridge off to the west over to thunderbolt looked enticing as well.

Very interesting, never thought of this. Looking through my photos from Thunderbolt, I dont even see that I took a picture looking east at the ridge!
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Re: Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

Postby John Prater » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:27 pm

My photos going from Algonquin to Paiute in 2008: http://www.flickr.com/photos/homieprater/sets/72157606513391931/with/2726582135/.

I think we were on the east side of the ridge (grassy ledges, crux loose section, lots of scrambling, up to 4th class) until the final notch. Above the notch, up a gully (good rock, 3rd class) on the west side of the ridge, then crossed back to the east side. Then the crux of the route for us, a short (30-foot?) wall. We looked at several options. My buddy Bill soloed up one option, then belayed two of us up another option. Don't recall the exact difficulty, but I want to say 5.6-5.7? Short scramble to the summit of Paiute above the crux.

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Re: Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

Postby Dave B » Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:50 am

John Prater wrote:My photos going from Algonquin to Paiute in 2008: http://www.flickr.com/photos/homieprater/sets/72157606513391931/with/2726582135/.

I think we were on the east side of the ridge (grassy ledges, crux loose section, lots of scrambling, up to 4th class) until the final notch. Above the notch, up a gully (good rock, 3rd class) on the west side of the ridge, then crossed back to the east side. Then the crux of the route for us, a short (30-foot?) wall. We looked at several options. My buddy Bill soloed up one option, then belayed two of us up another option. Don't recall the exact difficulty, but I want to say 5.6-5.7? Short scramble to the summit of Paiute above the crux.


Wow, really helpful! Thanks, John!

So is image 2040 looking at the crux 5.6-5.7 section? For some reason I have doing this thing clock-wise (starting from Mitchell Lake) stuck in my head, so a rope and slings for rapping seem like they'd probably be a necessity.
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Re: Paiute to "Algonquin" traverse

Postby Derek » Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:10 am

John Prater wrote:My photos going from Algonquin to Paiute in 2008: http://www.flickr.com/photos/homieprater/sets/72157606513391931/with/2726582135/.

I think we were on the east side of the ridge (grassy ledges, crux loose section, lots of scrambling, up to 4th class) until the final notch. Above the notch, up a gully (good rock, 3rd class) on the west side of the ridge, then crossed back to the east side. Then the crux of the route for us, a short (30-foot?) wall. We looked at several options. My buddy Bill soloed up one option, then belayed two of us up another option. Don't recall the exact difficulty, but I want to say 5.6-5.7? Short scramble to the summit of Paiute above the crux.


Thanks a lot for posting this, John.
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