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Gladstone Peak traverse info

Colorado 13er questions, conditions, and other info should be posted here. Also includes topics related to 13ers.com. 13er Trip Reports
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Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby tmathews » Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:46 am

I'm thinking of heading to the San Miguels this weekend for Gladstone Peak, but I'm also interested in traversing to Wilson Peak on the way back. There are only a couple of TRs mentioning this traverse, so I thought I'd inquire about it here. If you've done this Gladstone-to-Wilson-Peak traverse -- how difficult does it get and how many hours should I expect to be on it? If there is any 5th Class, I'll probably consider hitting up one of my buddies for company.

Thanks for any info that anyone can provide!
Last edited by tmathews on Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby FireOnTheMountain » Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:58 am

Yo T man

I did this traverse after Wilson Peak. However, I gained the ridge from around that rail hand cart after Rock of Ages saddle and going into the Navajo Basin.

The ridge goes class 3. West side of the ridge is pretty mellow so if you get pushed off the ridge just go west. Really fun scrambling.

My descent can be seen in image 2. Pretty steep gulley with loose rock but it went (I was kind of wanting to get off the mountain as fast as possible so probably not the most efficient descent). I was forced to cross a sizeable boulder field that exists on the east side of the peak as you enter the basin just so you know.
Attachments
P1020300.JPG
View from below Wilson Peak
P1020300.JPG (165.71 KiB) Viewed 375 times
P1020331.JPG
P1020331.JPG (109.68 KiB) Viewed 375 times
P1020315.JPG
Look down the ridge
P1020315.JPG (105.39 KiB) Viewed 375 times
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Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby ChrisinAZ » Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:09 am

Just attempted this traverse with a friend this weekend, I turned back about half a mile from the top, though he made it to the summit.

It does go at class 3, but the more solid rock on the ridge crest apparently involves some class 4 moves. Based on how the rock was to where I turned around, sidehilling through the boulders off the crest of the ridge would NOT be recommended--this was some of the loosest crap I've ever been on. Several-hundred-pound boulders can and will slide without warning. My friend described the whole thing as sketchier than the Wilson-El Diente traverse.

I believe from the 13200' saddle on Wilson Pk to summit took him about 3 hours, one way.

If you go, be careful--this is a gorgeous mountain, but not one I think I'm ever going to even attempt again. It just feels too dangerous...
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Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby Papillon » Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:14 am

Try to stay ridge proper. The east side is a loose mess. You'll be side-hilling on unsavory terrain. There is a short notch/step early on that pushed us to climber's left (east) and we never went back to the ridge which was a mistake. You can bail into Navajo Basin via a series of gullies. Several of them looked like they would go. I hiked back to the saddle instead because I wasn't into steep scree descents back then.
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Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby Kiefer » Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:05 pm

Papillon wrote:Try to stay ridge proper. The east side is a loose mess. You'll be side-hilling on unsavory terrain. There is a short notch/step early on that pushed us to climber's left (east) and we never went back to the ridge which was a mistake. You can bail into Navajo Basin via a series of gullies. Several of them looked like they would go. I hiked back to the saddle instead because I wasn't into steep scree descents back then.

+1

You'll like it, Terry. It's a good, albeit slightly loose class-3 ridge. Like Chris said, some the bigger boulders are surprisingly loose on the crest. East side is not easier.
Stick to the crest most of the way but like Pap said, there's a bit of a notch. Gets easier closer towards Wilson.
I've gone up and down a couple of the gullies on the Navajo side with Jeff Valliere and Dave Hale before. They work if for whatever reason you have to bail.
Nice shots, Abe!
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Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby strudolyubov » Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:27 pm

Terry,

Here is the North Ridge trip report from last Saturday:

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=12165

It took me slightly less than 2 hours to get from where the standard Wilson Peak trail crosses the ridge to the summit of Gladstone and ~1h40min to get back. Staying on the ridge crest is definitely safer than traversing below loose junk poised to slide without warning. Ridge crest is reasonably solid and has occasional class 4 sections, and a few optional/easily avoidable low class 5 steps/traverses.

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Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby tmathews » Sun Jul 01, 2012 11:19 am

I just wanted to say "Thanks!" to everyone for the info, advice, and encouragement. It's greatly appreciated!

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Re: Gladstone Peak traverse info

Postby globreal » Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:17 pm

tmathews wrote:I just wanted to say "Thanks!" to everyone for the info, advice, and encouragement. It's greatly appreciated!


Sooo, did you do this Wilson Peak/Rock of Ages saddle traverse to Gladstone?

How was it in your opinion?

Pictures?
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