Gannett Peak beta

[Dave B]

Hey All,
We're thinking about making a three day run for Gannett peak this weekend from Elkhardt Park. There are a couple of awesome trip reports on this site but they are all from climbs in early-mid July.

I know it's a bit late in the season but is the bergschrud passable without early season snow bridges?

Does anyone know of a good book that provides some relatively good information on the routes.

Cheers!

[skiwall]

I don't, but let me know if you go because I've been pondering this one as well. I got all my beta from Summitpost.

Might see you at the TH- thinking of heading to Indian Basin and going up some of the peaks in that area.

[JakeK]

There was a good trip report on Summitpost from a few weeks ago; some guys climbed it in one 25 hour outing. The bergschrud was still passable, but that was 3+ weeks ago.

[SenadR]

I summited Gannett Peak on August 9th from Elkhart Park, snowbridge was passable but at time was going away, i'm sure it's gone by now.
Hope some of these pic can help,

gannett-4476.jpg (155.71 KiB) Viewed 1141 times

gannett-4476.jpg (155.71 KiB) Viewed 1141 times

[skiwall]

Personally, I think you should reenact that scene from Vertical Limit where he leaps across the huge crevasse with his ice axes.

In all seriousness, is there any way to get across that without the snow bridge? How far across is it?

[Dave B]

Personally, I think you should reenact that scene from Vertical Limit where he leaps across the huge crevasse with his ice axes.

In all seriousness, is there any way to get across that without the snow bridge? How far across is it?

Heck yeah, and then dyno across the face, placing a cam in a small crack in mid air to save myself from falling ice and debris from the explosion above...

Skiwall, I'm going to send you a site email.

[viejo]

Years ago I did it mid to late August. I elected to go up the couloir from the south side approach to the Goose Neck. That avoided the big schrund you'd get from the north side. Assuming you're approaching from Dinwoody Pass, that would be along your route. You might want to eyeball that approach from the pass. There wasn't much snow left at the time, and the ice was pretty bullet proof. Sharpen up those points a bit before heading out.

That's a pretty grueling trip to make in 3 days, but certainly beautiful country.

[skiwall]

Heck yeah, and then dyno across the face, placing a cam in a small crack in mid air to save myself from falling ice and debris from the explosion above...

YES! Did you see that video about "Things I Learned From Vertical Limit"? It was hilarious, and now my climbing partner has a rule that I'm not allowed to mention dynamic cam placements more than three times per climbing day. :D

edit: fooooound it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7raPDYo

[JakeK]

Heck yeah, and then dyno across the face, placing a cam in a small crack in mid air to save myself from falling ice and debris from the explosion above...

Dynamite? That's WEAK! C'mon dude... don't you know that all REAL mountaineers, like Chris O'Donnell, climb with backpacks full of Nitroglycerin!?

[14erFred]

skiwall: Vintage Tinseltown histrionics...thanks for sharing!